“Have you had BeaverTails at ByWard Market?” This was the nth person asking me that question. I hadn’t heard the expression till I had stepped into
on a wintery morning. Over the next few days that I was to spend in the absorbing capital city of Ottawa , this query would pop up very often. Friendly locals would recommend it and friends would talk at length about it. The bottomline: you couldn’t have gone back from Canada without doing the ‘BeaverTails at Byward Market’ ritual. That would almost account for contempt of custom. Ottawa
What was BeaverTails? Before you get notions of delicacy or horror, depending which side of the food-preference fence you are on, be rest assured it belongs to the much-relished dominion of desserts, and the only fault it can commit is wrecking your calorie count. Essentially a dough pastry, it’s hand-stretched to remind you, well, of a beaver’s tail, and fried to a lightly-crisp, golden-brown. The pastry is topped with a variety of options as hazelnut, candy bar bits, fruit, chocolate etc, though the classic remains cinnamon-sugar. Savoury toppings like grated cheese are also popular. A thoroughbred Canadian retail venture, BeaverTails is a chain of stores across the country having originated at ByWard Market in
It was at the ByWard stall that I eventually had my first bite of BeaverTails. A perfect snack for a windy day, it also reminded me of home. I felt it’s basically our humble ‘atta ki roti’, fried and tweaked with toppings. Nonetheless, what I was savouring was a Canadian version of our daily bread and enjoyed it, especially the part of having done the buzz.
The festive spirit of year-end December is hard to miss and the one spot in
Another iconic spot here of current vintage is the Moulin de Provence Bakery, which prepares maple-leaf-shaped sugar cookies with red and white icing. Ever since US President Obama picked up a few for his daughters, during an impromptu visit in 2009, these have been labelled ‘Obama cookies’ and are always in huge demand, the baker’s order having risen by a daily count of thousand!
As a build-up to Christmas, ByWard Market begins getting festooned, appearing almost fairlyland-like. This December, the weekends (between Dec 4-19, 12 noon to 4 pm) offer holiday choirs and free horse-carriage rides. Adjoining the open-air market is Rideau Centre, one of the best shopping malls of the city that presents a fine selection of just about anything you’re looking for.
Downtown and around
The canal, a hop away from ByWard Market, flows between two other striking Neo-Gothic landmarks of the city: Parliament Hill, the seat of the government (free tour of the complex is offered), and Fairmont Château Laurier hotel, a class in itself. Around them there are a number of attractive spots and it’s best to dress in layers to conquer the wind-chill factor, don walk-worthy shoes and map the area on foot.
Across the Chateau is the National War Memorial and a few blocks away,
Sparks Street, a pedestrian zone popular for souvenir purchasing. About one km away is the of Nature; while at bus-ride distance is a spot definitely not to be missed — the National Gallery of Canada with a stupendous sculpture of a massive bronze spider by its front doors. If travelling with kids, the Canadian Museum of Civilization (in Gatineau) is a must-visit, especially to see the collection of totem poles as well as for its invigorating children’s section that offers glimpses of a world culture in a remarkable fashion. Canadian Museum
has an excellent network of buses. Private cabs the other alternative. The Visitor Centre, opposite Parliament Hill, offers able assistance. Ottawa
Accommodation: When in the capital, it’s in order to stay at the best heritage property:
Fairmont Château Laurier (www.fairmont.com). The hotel is located in the heart of Downtown, and is at touching distance from popular spots.
What to buy: Maple syrup, Moose droppings chocolate, ‘Roots’ apparel
Where to shop: Rideau Centre, next to Byward Market, offers a wide selection and good bargains for tourists
Published, Dec 2010
Published, Dec 2010