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 Published in Jetwings, December 2010

Oh! Calcutta: City with many moods

She never fails to overwhelm in ways uniquely her own. The wrinkles of age are visible but she’s a portrait of grace. Some adore her, some abuse her. But she embraces them all, unconditionally. She nurtures and gently compels to look beyond the mundane and the material, and live life in full measure. She shows a way to enjoy moments and not long for minutes. She’s real yet she’s an enigma. She’s Calcutta.
If you want too see an Indian city with a soul, buy travel tickets to Calcutta, now Kolkata. A bustling, bursting-at-its-seams metropolis, it’s got the answer you’ll ever require to charge your five senses. Here’s the A-Z of a city with many moods.

Ambassador: Production of the good ol’ Amby, India’s first car, has stopped but it still packs city streets. Under its matronly, domed hood are delightfully classic features like the side-vent windows for breeze in your hair. The Amby is largely spotted as the quintessential yellow taxi.   

Belur: The headquarters of the Ramakrishna Misssion, it’s a serene complex on the banks of River Hoogly. The main temple, devoted to sage Ramakrishna, is built in traditional Bengali char-chala (four-arched) style. A string of smaller temples includes one dedicated to Swami Vivekananda.

Chowringhee: Down the centuries the street has captured the imagination of all those who have traversed it. The city’s most famous business address, it has a striking Colonial skyline and defines the ‘Calcutta era’ in all its splendour.  

Dover Lane Music Conference: The city’s fervour for classical compositions touches the high note every winter when music sessions are held. The four-day Dover Lane event at Nazrul Manch has reached legendary proportions and draws connoisseurs from afar. Other celebrated programmes are Gunidas sangeet sammelan, Sabrang sangeet sammelan and ITC guru-shishya sammelan.

Eden Garden: The haloed ground of Indian cricket, the Eden Garden stadium, has been the venue for many a dramatic match. Opposite it is Maidan, the city’s green lung and amongst the largest metropolis parks in the world. On Sundays it turns into a battle ground for cheer and jeer when hundreds of cricket matches are played by enthusiastic boys and men. On its fringes are some of the oldest sporting clubs of the country like Mohan Bagan and East Bengal.

Flower market: Located on Mallick Ghat, at the head of Howrah Bridge, it’s the biggest wholesale flower bazaar in eastern India and its sheer profusion of colour is a feast for the eyes. Blooms of myriad varieties vie for attention but there’s no taking away from the dominance of the saffron-hued marigold that lights up all spaces. Weekly business worth crores happens in this shanty market.   

Graphitti: The Bengali breathes art. The city walls are also his canvas where the flair with paint and brush manifests itself majorly as creative slogans of political rhetoric. The gods are appeased too and so are iconic heroes like Che and Maradona in similar fashion.      

Hoogly: For a tryst with the great Ganga—River Hoogly here—and to experience life playing out on its ghats (banks), hop on to a ferry that gently bobs in the shadows of the stunning Howrah Bridge and Vidyasagar Bridge.

ICE Zone: Sector 5 in Salt Lake is the info-tech and communication district. And it chills out nearby at Sector 1 City Centre, the glitziest contemporary public space in town designed by renowned Charles Correa. It represents a vibrant confluence of shopping malls, cineplexes, restaurants and food courts amidst luxuriant contours. To get an arresting bird’s eye view of a neon cityscape ascend to Afraa, its fine dining space, on the seventh floor.

Jorasankho: 6/4 Dwarkanath Tagore Lane, Kolkata – 7. That’s the address where lived Bengal’s reverend father, Nobel-laureate Rabindranath Tagore. His house was the hub of Bengali literati and many a revolutionary idea was sparked here. Currently it’s a centre for performing arts. Its well-preserved Tagore museum has serene, overpowering vibes. Around the corner is Marble Palace, an aristocratic residence, now slightly disheveled, that displays a personal collection of priceless European masterpieces and bric-a-brac.    

  

Kathi rolls: A Kolkata invention, it’s undoubtedly the simplest, yet most delectable street fare fit for epicurean taste-buds. A version of the wrap, it’s about succulent pieces of chicken (barbequed on wooden skewers or kathi, thus the name) rolled in an egg fried roti (flour tortilla) layered with chopped onion, green chillies, spices and a dash of lemon all in a jiffy.

Lal-paar & dhuti-punjabi: Fashion may swing between Rathore and Armani but there’s nothing as classy as the lal paar (red border) saree worn the traditional way by women and the dhuti-punjabi (lower-kurta) sported by men. The attire is a constant at any social event, especially during the festive months.

Mishti: The famed Bengali sweet-tooth has given rise to mishti (sweetmeat) shop in almost every lane and each seems to excel in not just its rosogulla and sandesh but a whole gamut.  In winters, sugar in the mishti is replaced with notun gur or the divinely-delicious date-palm jaggery. Joynagarer Moa (pix) is another winter special. Balaram Mullick in Bhowanipore is one of the many established name in traditional treats.  

Nahoum's: The 1912 vintage shop in New Market is one of the handful Jewish-owned confectioneries found in India. A legend in itself, its timeless glass-wood cabinets are packed with favourites like walnut brownies, baklava, feta cheese sambusak (pix), mutton rolls, water biscuits and its famous rich fruit cake, for which there are unbelievable km-long queues on Christmas eve.  

Oh! Calcutta: A chic restaurant for gourmet Bengali at Forum, the city’s popular multiplex, on Elgin Road. It’s value for money and flavour and the daab-chingri (shrimps in tender coconut shell) is a must-eat. A short distance away is Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose’s home. (For traditional fare in unfussy environs book a table at Bhojohori Manna, www.bhojohorimanna.org, where the menu changes everyday).

Park Street: Once Asia’s most happening nightspot, it’s a petered down version of its former self but is still alluring, especially under a neon glaze. It has some fine restaurants, cafes and bookstores and is the place for a leisurely browse and munch. A landmark here is Flury’s, a one-time Swiss confectionary, that’s a must-visit for its sparkling ambience and the nostalgia it holds, besides of course its scrumptious cakes and savouries.

 

Queen’s Mansion: It was the residential address on Park Street. The mansion still stands in regal grace and a fresh coat of paint has added new life to the Victorian edifice. A few lanes away, New Market (pix) too has had a bit of a facelift.

Rickshaw: These are wheels of heritage and beget admiration, even if you need heart to see man lug man. The hand-pulled version found only on these streets has attracted its share of human rights activists who have been pushing to see it go off the road. It still hasn’t, and the rickshawalas are carting passengers, and quite happily so.

Street food: Kolkata is so much about food that it overpowers the senses. But nothing matches the gastronomic range served on its streets. It makes a mess of the surroundings but there’s such passion on display in the process of making fresh food in bare minimum ways that it’s gone way beyond reasons of sustenance and entered the realm of art. The aromas are appetising and its best to allow your nose to dictate as it trails the smells of luchi-aloo, macher jhol-bhaat, chop-cutlet, roomlai-koshamangsho et al. In the district of snacks there’s the numero uno jhaalmuri—raw mustard oil-flavoured spicy quick-fix of puffed rice—channajor garam, chilla, singhara, chumur…it goes on. The maati-bahander chai or tea served in earthen pots is another unparallel.   

Tram: For a ticket to ride on a mode of history jump on to the tram, running only in Kolkata, delightfully crisscrossing lanes and showcasing a cultural slice. The most architecturally-rich routes are those touching Esplanade and BBD Bagh stations which go past the Tipu Sultan Mosque, Chowringhee, Writers Building, Shaheed Minar, GPO, Raj Bhawan and a host of Victorian buildings. A new glass-roofed tram car is the latest scorcher.   

U/A: Nandan on AJC Bose Road has been the celebrated place for movie buffs and you need to catch a film here to see what draws the population. During film festivals it’s the most effervescent venue to be at and join animated discussions at addas (group chats). The complex has a museum dedicated to Satyajit Ray.

Victoria Memorial: It’s vintage Calcutta’s signature structure. Striking in its grandeur, it remains the favourite spot for local citizen and tourist alike and long queues can be witnessed almost everyday. Inside its portals is a museum and atop its dome is the figure of an angel that’s also a wind-vane.

Wonton soup: This is a hot seller at the Chinese breakfast served on the street at Tiretta Bazaar. The venue gets the marks for sheer ambience and is a sight to savour from 6 am - 9 am when the residents of this area, erstwhile China Town, come out of their homes to cook and serve piping hot fare. If you are late you don’t even spot the crumbs.  

X-mass: Not just Durga Puja, no one celebrates Christmas the way it’s done here. It’s a pan-community affair and the city wears festive lights. St Paul’s Cathedral and Park Street is where the crowds converge and Santa Claus pops out of every restaurant door. 

Yesteryears: Kolkata is one of those cities where ‘yesteryear’ holds true in the present. It’s a city that values commitment to tradition and it’s here that you are treated to a stimulating, seamless blend of conventional and contemporary.

Zoological garden: Alipore Zoo, the oldest in the country, has the largest party of the animal kingdom and they are known to growl, roar or make a monkey of the teeming numbers who visit them. Sometime they do oblige with a priceless pose for the lens.     

Published JetWings Int'l, 2010

Jordan: Timeless sands of Wadi Rum

 “V  a  s  t,  e  c  h  o  i  n  g,  a n d  g o d-l i k e”

There are deserts, and there are gargantuan rocks. Then there is Wadi Rum, a desert of silken-smooth sand studded with monolithic rocks soaring from open valleys, both elements coalescing to such stupendous effect that it almost appears to be an incredible piece of installation art. In a way it has to be, and should rank amongst the line-up of special works, it is sculpted by the Master artist, after all.  
Wadi Rum lies in the Aqaba Governorate, which is the southern tip of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Geographically, though, it belongs to the sweeping expanse of the Arabian Desert stretching through Iraq, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Oman and Jordan.

From amongst the assorted landscapes in the kingdom, it’s Wadi Rum or ‘valley of the moon’ that comes across as timeless for many a traveller. In no sense does it reflect the desert definition of being a hostile and potentially-perilous environment not fit for survival. On the contrary, it’s welcoming and has a sort of tranquil magnetism, almost spiritual, that draws you towards it. During a recent tour of Jordan, I intuitively joined the clique of those utterly enthralled by it and would put it down as a site not to be given the miss during an excursion in the kingdom.  

The most arresting aspect in this desert canvas are the monoliths of sandstone and granite rising to heights of around 1,750 mt and bearing the most fantastic features. These expressive rock faces are the happy outcome of constant exposure to erosion. Adding further contrast and irrefutable allure to the panoramic landscape are red-ochre dunes and endless miles of powdery sand in blended hues.

One of the most famous expressions to describe Wadi Rum has emerged from TE Lawrence, popularly known as the Lawrence of Arabia, who in his autobiography Seven Pillars of Wisdom described it as “vast, echoing, and god-like”. It is a quote splashed across all forms of information on Wadi Rum, and strangely so, despite being oft-heard it doesn’t sound hackneyed. The words penned in 1922 are just so apt even today reinforcing the eternal nature of Wadi Rum.

Explore and shop

Ways of exploring Wadi Rum include a jeep drive or better still a camel safari lead by a Zalabia Bedouin—one of the few tribes inhabiting this desert. That apart, those with an adventure bone can opt for camping, trekking, hiking or rock climbing. Hot air ballooning is a fairly recent addition that’s drawing the crowds, predictably so. The paucity of time had me scrambling into a 4x4 (most of these are run-down versions) for my tryst with the sands of time. 

Before setting out on a safari, tourists are supposed to register at the elegant Wadi Rum visitor centre and avail the option of seeing a brilliant documentary on this ecosphere, highlighting its flora, fauna and geological aspects. There are a few souvenir shops too, largely retailing replicas of ancient hunting petroglyphs discovered on rocks here, dating back to a millennium-plus and providing vital anthropology leads. Brochures also don’t forget to mention movies filmed here, such as the classic Lawrence of Arabia which singly catapulted Wadi Rum to the tourism stratosphere, Red Planet and Passion in the Desert. 

Jeep Safari

My two-hour jeep tour kick-started from one of the most photographed rock formations, Mount Rum, popularly called ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’, so titled by Lawrence. Driving around the dunes and on fields of sand was a new experience, after having driven on Jordan’s faultless highways. The monolithic rocks were definitely the jewels in the crown, some of these being so mystically alive that I felt they would speak any moment. Some shapes were unique, as the arched Jebel Burdah, which had trekkers scaling its height. One of the scheduled mid-way halts during the safari is at a Bedouin tent where black-tea flavoured with locally grown sage and cardamom is offered. It’s delicious. Sipping tea in the company of camels and friendly locals attired in thobe (gown)-keffiyeh (head gear) adds enduring charm to the desert experience.  

This terrain required time but we were racing against the clock, with guide Ali making sure we didn’t miss the all-important sunset seen best from atop a monolith fringed by cascading reddish-orange sand. We had to scramble up to the summit, a tough task indeed, to get the best views. And it was worth it. The amber glow of sunset altered the desertscape, silhouetting the rocks dramatically. Shade and light created an unusual eco-system. As the sun set the land appeared to get even quieter, and as we watched night engulf the desert it seemed a city had turned off its lights. A few hours later when daylight would creep in the desert would once again transform and life would blossom. 

Golden triangles

Apart from Wadi Rum, most popular sites of Jordan are found in its fertile crescent. In the southern-end, coastal Aqaba, Petra — the rock cut kingdom of the ancient Nabatean tribe that’s been declared the new wonder of the world, and Wadi Rum form a doable triangle. In the north, capital Amman, the Dead Sea, and Madaba, which is considered the centre of Byzantine mosaic art, is the other triangle. The Desert Highway and the more scenic King’s Highway link the kingdom and ensure you zip through the countryside at ease while exploring it.

Quick facts: 
Air: Royal Jordanian has daily flights from Delhi and Mumbai

Distance monitor: Wadi Rum to Aqaba (50 km/1 hr); Aqaba to Amman (367 km/3.5 hrs/ daily internal flights between the two destinations)

Currency: 1 Jordanian Dinar (JD) = Rs 65 appx

Accommodation: There is ample choice in the semi-premium category, where the tariff is upwards JD 120 (Rs 7,500-plus).


Published, Jetwings December 2010

Ottawa by Marche By

“Have you had BeaverTails at ByWard Market?” This was the nth person asking me that question. I hadn’t heard the expression till I had stepped into Ottawa on a wintery morning. Over the next few days that I was to spend in the absorbing capital city of Canada, this query would pop up very often. Friendly locals would recommend it and friends would talk at length about it. The bottomline: you couldn’t have gone back from Ottawa without doing the ‘BeaverTails at Byward Market’ ritual. That would almost account for contempt of custom.

What was BeaverTails? Before you get notions of delicacy or horror, depending which side of the food-preference fence you are on, be rest assured it belongs to the much-relished dominion of desserts, and the only fault it can commit is wrecking your calorie count. Essentially a dough pastry, it’s hand-stretched to remind you, well, of a beaver’s tail, and fried to a lightly-crisp, golden-brown. The pastry is topped with a variety of options as hazelnut, candy bar bits, fruit, chocolate etc, though the classic remains cinnamon-sugar. Savoury toppings like grated cheese are also popular. A thoroughbred Canadian retail venture, BeaverTails is a chain of stores across the country having originated at ByWard Market in Ottawa. That outlet still remains iconic for this neo-traditional dessert, a creation of Pam and Grant Hooker, who turned their family recipe into a business in 1978.

It was at the ByWard stall that I eventually had my first bite of BeaverTails. A perfect snack for a windy day, it also reminded me of home. I felt it’s basically our humble ‘atta ki roti’, fried and tweaked with toppings. Nonetheless, what I was savouring was a Canadian version of our daily bread and enjoyed it, especially the part of having done the buzz.   

ByWard Market

The festive spirit of year-end December is hard to miss and the one spot in Ottawa that it all comes to the fore is at the circa 1826 ByWard Market. Considered the soul-keeper of the city, it’s amongst the oldest and biggest markets of Canada. The most vibrant district of Downtown Ottawa, and also known as Marche By in French, this is the venue of an open-air farmer’s market, art and knick-knack stalls, magician shows, music gigs, book launches, horse-drawn carriage rides etc. In addition, it has a collection of chic boutiques (Frou Frou is a must-check for urban, artsy apparel), pulsating restaurants, sidewalk cafes and a pick of nightlife spots, which include Chateau Lafayette, the city’s oldest inn (AD 1849) where every Saturday since 1999, country singer Ron Burke, a legend of Ottawa, holds the Lucky Ron Show, belting out classics and having the swigging crowd swaying and singing.

Another iconic spot here of current vintage is the Moulin de Provence Bakery, which prepares maple-leaf-shaped sugar cookies with red and white icing. Ever since US President Obama picked up a few for his daughters, during an impromptu visit in 2009, these have been labelled ‘Obama cookies’ and are always in huge demand, the baker’s order having risen by a daily count of thousand!  

As a build-up to Christmas, ByWard Market begins getting festooned, appearing almost fairlyland-like. This December, the weekends (between Dec 4-19, 12 noon to 4 pm) offer holiday choirs and free horse-carriage rides. Adjoining the open-air market is Rideau Centre, one of the best shopping malls of the city that presents a fine selection of just about anything you’re looking for.

Downtown and around

Ottawa city, in Ontario province, lies largely on the banks of the River Ottawa, with the River Rideau and River Gatineau fringing it. The network of rivers has given Canada a unique heritage and a slice of this can be seen in Ottawa by way of the 202-km Rideau Canal which has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. One of the greatest engineering feats of its time, it’s the oldest continuously-operated canal in the continent and its locks are managed today just as they were when it opened in 1832, as a war-time supply route.  The Rideau Canal makes a pretty sight in summers, but come winters and it freezes to form a 7.8 km solid ice ground, in the event gathering a statistic of becoming the world’s largest skating rink which is a sure treat for ice-skaters. 

The canal, a hop away from ByWard Market, flows between two other striking Neo-Gothic landmarks of the city: Parliament Hill, the seat of the government (free tour of the complex is offered), and Fairmont Château Laurier hotel, a class in itself. Around them there are a number of attractive spots and it’s best to dress in layers to conquer the wind-chill factor, don walk-worthy shoes and map the area on foot. 

Across the Chateau is the National War Memorial and a few blocks away, Sparks Street, a pedestrian zone popular for souvenir purchasing. About one km away is the Canadian Museum of Nature; while at bus-ride distance is a spot definitely not to be missed — the National Gallery of Canada with a stupendous sculpture of a massive bronze spider by its front doors. If travelling with kids, the Canadian Museum of Civilization (in Gatineau) is a must-visit, especially to see the collection of totem poles as well as for its invigorating children’s section that offers glimpses of a world culture in a remarkable fashion.

Ottawa is a bustling multi-ethnic region and according to unofficial data has the highest number of languages spoken per sq km in a capital city. Immigrant Asians have happily settled into the cityscape and are a proud community. As an Indian visitor, it may take a while in getting used to the sober discipline that governs the city, but once in sync with regulations the system is appreciated. Yet, if you ever feel homesick tune into Chin Radio FM 97.9 between 5 to 7 pm, when India-born popular radio jockey, “host and dost (friend)” Hunsdeep Rangar, does a special programme for the South Asian community under the banner of Mirch Masala Radio, rolling out a peppy package of Bollywood hits, star interviews and community events. A Kishore Kumar-Asha Bhonsle duet when walking by the Rideau Canal munching on BeaverTails sounds the perfect blend for a day out in multi-cultural Ottawa.    

Getting around: Ottawa has an excellent network of buses. Private cabs the other alternative.  The Visitor Centre, opposite Parliament Hill, offers able assistance.

Accommodation: When in the capital, it’s in order to stay at the best heritage property:

Fairmont Château Laurier (www.fairmont.com). The hotel is located in the heart of Downtown, and is at touching distance from popular spots.

What to buy: Maple syrup, Moose droppings chocolate, ‘Roots’ apparel

Where to shop: Rideau Centre, next to Byward Market, offers a wide selection and good bargains for tourists 


Published, Dec 2010