Vernacular architecture of Himachal

#dhajjidewari, #kathkuni, #garapathar, #Roerich https://www.rt.com/india/582832-nicholas-roerich-india-himalayas-kullu/ Published online in Russia Today, September 2023

Resort review: Aamod at Shoghi

Have you ever aspired for a little place nestled in the hills? Till you pocket it, check into Aamod at Shoghi for a prelude.    

Picture this: A forest in the hills... the elegant oak racing up to the skies, a burst of shy rhododendrons somewhere in between, a poker straight deodar commanding attention and the ubiquitous pine preening unstoppably. Step on the edge and what greets the eye is a panoramic view of rolling green hills, happy flowers of the untamed kind, a few hamlets yonder, terraced fields tip-toeing up the slopes, lots of squinting blue skies, and oh! the sparkling sound of silence. So capturing are the environs it almost seems someone's pressed the pause button. It's a feeling so typical to the hills. It's a feeling Aamod at Shoghi induces. 

Aamod's USP is its location. On the NH 22, at Shoghi, a few km short of Shimla, and deep inside a reserved forest. Yes, you read that right. It's a lovely woody forest and not a tree was chopped to make place for the cottages which are quirkily placed at varying levels, most of them requiring you to hike and catch a breath as you make your way up towards them. The reason, this is not a place for wobbly-kneed elders or unfit juniors. On the flip side, should you decide to come here you are bound to feel a whole lot agile at the end of your stay. Nature has a way of cajoling you to do the dare and feel triumphant.    

Aamod offers a lot and does so with a large heart. It's got a spry courtyard restaurant right at the entrance which in a way sets the ball rolling. Adjoining it is the dining hall where a live kitchen whips up a range of cuisine. If the way to a guest's heart is through the stomach, Aamod strongly believes in that dictum and pulls out all stops to cater to your whims, even if that means baking a cake at night for your special occasion, which they did for a guest during my stay. The breakfast buffet has quite a choice and at dinner they pleasantly surprised me with guchhi soup. My pick would be its authentic Himachali spread, something you'll rarely find on the menu in these parts. Ever tasted the combination of sweet malpua served with savoury pumpkin? It's a traditional starter in the hills here, which I felt was very gourmet, and a clear winner.   

You're endearingly enveloped by nature at this true-blue eco-resort and you needn't step away for an up close green experience. Should you be in a mood to lazily unwind, you can do just that on a cosy chair outside your cottage. Else you could make your way to the charming machhan-like deck, a perfect spot to coil up with a book or just gaze into the forest and tune into its stillness or the song of the bird. Topping it all, however, is indulgence at the hilltop spa with a view, and its irresistible open-air jacuzzi. 

For those with an adventure bone there are easy trekking trails and hikes in the vicinity, mountain-biking, rock-climbing and rappelling, besides a host of team-building games. I opted for the railway trek which was literally round the corner and provided the thrill of walking along the century-old meter gauge track of the Kalka-Shimla toy train and seeing it whistle past me as it entered the tunnel. Quite fairytale like, that. The trek also gave me an insight into forest wealth besides clear morning views of the hills and its picturesque homes. 

I challenged myself to a bit more off-roading and joined my group on a cycling outing. Not having sat astride a bike in years I thought I'd be all rusted. That was not the case, though, and I covered the 6-km distance quite alright. To be true it was all downhill, thus! The reward at the end of the pedal-pushing was lunch at the Nal Thalak village home of Roshni Devi and Hemanand. It was food prepared with dollops of passion and regard and was delicious in its simplicity. What further sent the tastebuds soaring was the 24-kt liquid gold a.k.a. home-made cow-milk ghee, which Roshni Devi streamed onto our thalis. Fragrant and bursting with flavours, it got most of us asking for repeats.  

My tryst with adventure did not end there. Aamod has a comprehensive in-house 10-obstacle course, which includes flying fox. I would put this down as an absolute must-do. Considering my bulky profile I didn't think I would be able to go past the first rung of the hurdle. The fact that I could do it all and quite effortlessly goes to the credit of the two instructors Ravi and Jeetinder whose faith in their abilities and the equipment inspired confidence.  

All's good at Aamod, however, the cottages, I felt, required a little TLC. They are basic  -- yes, they have comfortable beds, running hot water, electric blanket, room heater, telly, de rigueur tea tray -- but lack a certain snugness associated with a place in the hills. The interiors on the whole are a tad monotonous (Pray tell me, why does one have to view the same set of black and white prints on every wall, be it in the rooms or dining, where in fact one wall has repeats?!). My experience is based on my stay in one section of the family suite. I had the desire to see other cottages to be able to present a fairer view but somehow that did not materialise. That apart, service at Aamod is with a smile, the locally-drawn staff being an enthusiastic lot, which irons out all glitches. 

Quickly: 

What: Eco-resort 

Where: On NH 22, at Shoghi, 13 km short of Shimla 

Tariff: Rs 5,600 onwards  

Resort-o-meter 

Location: 5

Ambience: 4.5

Cottages: 3 

Food: 4 

Activities: 4.5 

The visit was on the invitation of Aamod at Shoghi via Escape Route.

Kanker, Chitrakoot etc: Far from the touristy crowd

All yours: Boating at the magnificent Chitrakoot Falls in Bastar, Chhattisgarh.
 Photos by author

A choice of  off-beat, off-season destinations that spare you the scramble for ticket and hotel bookings. 

You’ve woken up to the thought of a family holiday a tad late. But by this time, perennial winter favourites Goa, Rajasthan, and Kerala are all packed to capacity. Don’t fret, there’s hope. Here are some offbeat, off-season destinations where you can still hope to get hotel bookings (the heritage/ luxury resorts suggested are destinations in themselves) and relatively cheap air-tickets.

Just think beyond the usual and you could find yourself amidst experiences you’ll cherish a lifetime.

ALMORA, UTTARAKHAND

This is a popular summer destination, but if you can bear the cold a bit, this place in the lap of the Himalayas will enamour you. At this time of the year, the Nanda Devi, Trishul and Panchali peaks surrounding this town of the Kumaon hills are splendidly clear, and it’s a joy to do nothing more than enjoy their majestic sight. An overnight train from Delhi will get you there early morning, letting you make good use of the day.

The activity line-up includes a trip to the Binsar wildlife sanctuary, walks to Kumaoni villages with their well-preserved architectural heritage, treks through lovely cedar forests, and bird-spotting. If all this sounds like too much work, you can just curl up on a hammock and read, laze, and sun till the bonfires are lit.

Stay: Kalmatia Sangam (www.kalmatia-sangam.com)

ALIPURA, MADHYA PRADESH

Alipura quite really is the heart of Bundelkhand. Once a bustling dominion established in 1757 AD, it is now a quiet hamlet in Chhatarpur district. This is ideal if you are looking to spend a heritage holiday in a non-touristy place, and highly recommended if you want a genuine rural experience away from hawkers and pollution. Situated midway on NH 75, which connects Jhansi/ Orchha with Khajuraho/ Panna National Park, it is worth reshuffling your itinerary to include a visit here, more so if you don’t want to spend an entire day travelling on the highway.

Besides offering a break, Alipura allows you to explore Bundelkhand’s past. An alternative is to extend your trip to include the splendid Bandhavgarh National Park, which is connected via an overnight train to Katni/ Umaria from Harpalpur, 15 km from here.

Stay: Alipura Palace (www.alipurapalace.com)

KANKER, CHHATTISGARH

Kanker is the gateway to Bastar, a land still refreshingly original and very welcoming, despite reports of turmoil tumbling out of its frontiers. The NH 43 running via Kanker is the State’s lifeline, linking capital Raipur with the southern district of Bastar. A stay at Kanker will allow you to visit tribal settlements, attend atmospheric village haats (see pix), go trekking in tropical forests, and visit wildlife parks. An added attraction is a stay at the Kanker Palace, which will delight you with old-world features, such as the cloth ceiling fan that’s still in usable condition. A day-trip to the spectacular Chitrakoot Waterfall and boating in its waters should be another gem.

Stay: Kanker Palace (www.kankerpalace.com)

NALDEHRA, HIMACHAL PRADESH

Naldehra is well preserved and abounds in natural splendour. Pleasant hikes, mountain air, mist outside the window, and a crackling log-fire when the sun sets are some of the reasons to be here when the temperature dips. Pine and deodar trees frame this hamlet, famous for the country’s oldest nine-hole golf course designed by Lord Curzon. Naldehra is literally in Shimla’s backyard (22 km/ 35 minutes away), but away from the capital’s congestion and tourist traps, which allows you to explore its fading yet classic beauty at your convenience.

Stay: The Chalets Naldehra (www.chaletsnaldehra.com)

RAMPURA, UTTAR PRADESH

In an idyllic milieu and far from the madding crowds, Rampura allows a peep into Bundelkhand besides showing off the decadent grandeur of its out-of-a-fairytale fort. Its drawing power is its location at the edge of the infamous Chambal ravines, offering a scrumptious platter for those with an interest in history. In its vicinity are a number of forts, some crumbling, at Gopalpura, Tiher, Jagmanpur, Saravan, Sewnda, Machand, Lahar and Kalpi. Rampura lies off the Kanpur-Agra route, and can be a perfect stopover on a road journey from Lucknow to Orchha or Gwalior.

Stay: Fort Rampura (www.fortrampura.com)

Published in The Hindu Business Line, Dec 2012  

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/far-from-the-touristy-crowd/article4218004.ece

Norbulingka, Sidhpur, Himachal

                               To read the article, right click and select the top option: Open link in new tab

Chamba: Pretty perch

Chamba in Himachal Pradesh is an ancient town cradled by incredibly beautiful mountain ranges.

Cocooned amidst lofty mountains and rolling hills of the incredibly beautiful Pir Panjal, Zanskar, and Dhauladhar ranges, Chamba tiptoes up and down a two-deck plateau rising from the banks of a gurgling Ravi river. Over a thousand years old, this little outpost in northwest Himachal Pradesh was once a remarkable royal dominion established by Raja Sahil Varman in 920. Its geography cosseted it from invasions, letting it develop a culture of its own. Here the arts found patronage, literature strengthened roots and education was encouraged. Its royalty was continually farsighted and the region benefited. Chamba, for instance, was one of the first towns in the north to get electricity as early as 1910, with the dynamic Raja Bhuri Singh (1904-19) tapping into the era's newest concept of hydro-generation. As testimony to his vision, the main market retains several ornate electricity poles erected way back then.

CHOWGAN AT THE CENTRE

In days of yore, Chamba was a tiny town built around the Chowgan, a verdant central square, which continues to be its most popular public venue. In the past, it hosted coronations and sundry imperial ceremonies, now it's used for almost anything from social functions to political rallies and even leisurely picnics. On its flanks rose the attractive royal quarters and the market. Today's town has moved way beyond the Chowgan, with urbanisation creeping into the surrounding hills. The changing times have also diluted or destroyed the finer aspects of traditions. Yet, what remains shyly shines through the clutter, drawing the eye of the keen visitor and enthralling with their varied attributes.

The calling card of Chamba is its ancient shrines and their distinguishing architecture. Amongst the oldest and most revered on the checklist is the 11th century Lakshmi Narayan Temple. A short uphill walk from the market leads to its complex of six shrines dedicated to Lords Shiva or Vishnu. Each of these has been erected by rulers at different points of time and enshrine exquisitely crafted idols, which are now caged behind iron grills. A beautiful Garuda at the entrance is another highlight. Built in shikhara style, or tapering stone towers, it's their slate-wood chattris or canopies that make these temples typical to the area.

What's more, there is a gold kalash (holy urn) atop each, and legend says these were added in defiance to Emperor Aurangzeb's decree ordering temples to be razed. Apparently Raja Chhatar Singh (1664-90) took the audacious step in 1678 to indicate he wasn't afraid of the enemy forces! Other significant medieval shrines in the region include Champavati temple, Hari Rai temple (known for its Vaikuntha idol, a form of Vishnu with three faces — human, boar and lion), Bansi Gopal temple, Bajreshwari temple (that's a little beyond town) and Chamunda Devi temple.

Owing to topography, palaces in the hills are, in general, nowhere as palatial as those on the plains; at best, they are akin to huge mansions. Overlooking the Chowgan is the erstwhile royal address, Akhand Chandi Palace, built by Raja Umed Singh in 1748-64. The unplanned construction in the neighbourhood nearly hides it from view but, like a pretty diamond, it manages to grab the eye, the gaze returning often to its striking green roof and stained-glass windows. Part of the palace has been turned into a college while the rest is still home to the Varman descendants.

PAHARI ART

British influence began making inroads from 1840 onwards and their architectural imprint is noticeable in the post office, the courthouse complex, the well-maintained Circuit House and the Church of Scotland.

The Chamba royals were patrons of fine art, and the region's collective wealth of art history is showcased at the Bhuri Singh Museum, established in 1908, making it one of the oldest in the country. Here you'll find sculptures, costumes and miniature paintings belonging to the Pahari school of art, comprising the Chamba, Kangra, Basholi and Guler styles.

Live art in progress can be viewed at the town's small but lively bazaars, where weavers make shawls on wooden looms, silversmiths craft pendants, metallurgists hammer on copper and brass to produce trumpets, bells and pujaplatters, artists work on Pahari paintings, and girls embroider the Chambarumal — an inimitable do-rukha, or reversible, embroidery on square cloth used to cover gifts and holy offerings. Traditionally, the rumal is part of a bride's trousseau and her grandmother embroiders it for the special occasion.

Like in many of the region's hilly towns, a plethora of fairs and festivals take place in Chamba the year round. The Sui Mela held in April pays tribute to Shail Varman's queen who, according to folklore, sacrificed her life so that Chamba would never be without water. The Sui Mata temple is dedicated to her and, during the festival, women gather and sing praises of her valour and devotion. It's the poignant tale behind the event that draws devotees from far-flung areas. And on such days, otherwise quiet Chamba comes alive with festivity.

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/life/pretty-perch/article2635741.ece

Published in The Hindu Business Line , Nov 2011

Kalpa

On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner range, appearing to be touching distance away 

When summers scorch the plains the prospect of running away to the mountains soothes. But it’s the thought of finding snow that tantalises, and how. A mission comes into focus. Bragging rights garner attention and animated conversation revolves around swirls of white, flakes of white and sheets of white. Schedules are made and aborted, till one fine day the smug white heat outside the door unbearably appears in sharp contrast to the white the mind has warmed up to. In the titanic clash of whites, one is the expected winner, and plans get firmed to finally set-out. If life’s joys lie in small things, chasing snow in summer is the god of small things.

Some mountains roads overtime have come to acquire cult status. Amidst that line-up are a few which qualify as classics on the sheer strength of name. The Hindustan-Tibet Road is one among those. Though officially stripped of that aura and austerely referred to as National Highway or NH 22, nothing has altered its charm for the traveller for whom it still promises the heady romance associated with surface voyages of yore. This highway, an accomplishment of perseverance in itself, runs through the heart of Kinnaur, one of the prettiest regions of Himachal, and apart from quenching the thirst for adventure leads to sun and snow locales, certainly a blissful thought during blisteringly hot conditions.

The 459-km route runs across the colonial-meets-chaos landscape of Shimla, rises up to the alpine-line of Narkanda, zig-zags past the apple orchards of Thanedar-Kotgarh, races through Rampur and a little ahead of Jeori (a diversion here leading to Sarahan), enters the scenic valley of Kinnaur. The shift in terrain from the twists and bends of Shimla’s green hills to the ruggedness of Kinnaur is quite stunning and the mountains appear like sculpted art. More than the destinations, the road becomes a point of discussion as it rapidly ascends and descends, at times precariously clinging to the edge and on occasions grandly zipping through dramatically-carved sheer rock. The River Sutlej is its steady escort and moody waters add another irresistible element of gaze in the already-stimulating mountain canvas. Nature has the ability to sparkle in every season and bursts of summer resplendence are brought in often by a brilliant lavender jacaranda peeping through dense conifers, wild roses cascading down a barren hillside, a flame of the forest in red profusion or the silver oak proudly presenting its mustardy-orange flowers. The colours sparkle and the contrasting mountains heighten the effect. 

During the initial stages of the onward journey through Kinnaur, a driver’s skills are tested often in encountering the appalling Wangtu-Karcham section, where hydel projects are works in progress and have ruined the terrain. An unexpected spell of rain does add to woes of this segment, but these are the sort of challenges mountain addicts thrive on, the successes in such moments adding to the bag of brag to be dug into often, long after the journey is over. The intermittently good-bad tarmac clears out a little before the uphill detour for Reckong Peo, the district headquarters of Kinnaur. The NH carries on to Sumdo and enters Spiti where it winds up at Kaurik, the Indian frontier which needs to be accessed on foot. For mission snow, though, you needn’t stretch yourself the full distance. A spectacle awaits at Kalpa, a destination 14 km ahead of Reckong Peo and 220 km from Shimla.

The drive up to Kalpa (9,051 ft) is impressive to say the least, with the pretty chilgoza or pine-nut tree (this region is said to produce the country’s best) lining the winding road and the whiff of snow drugging the air. The mountains play hide-and seek and the eyes stay peeled to spot the White. The road is flawless, the drive is smooth and a few mountain twists later when the vehicle halts the spectacular stuns. On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner Kailash range, appearing to be at touching distance. And it’s white. Snow-white! It looks magnificent against the brilliant blue of the sky and to use a clichéd expression ‘takes your breath away’. Often the actual lacks the beauty a picture-postcard conveys. Kalpa is real and utterly beautiful. Its postcard will never be a lie. The search for sun and snow is rewarded here, and magnificently so.

Kalpa is characteristically quaint and picturesque. It has lovely walking trails and friendly people with lyrical voices, typical kath-kuhni (walls built with alternating slabs of wood and stone) homes with gently sloping slate roofs, apple orchards in blossom running down the hills and a reigning quietude that’s interrupted only by the chirping of the birds or chants from temples and monasteries. These are features quite mountain-specific but are elevated to a new high by the glorious Kinner massif. As with all ‘Kailash’ suffixed mountains, this is also considered the legendary winter abode of Lord Shiva. His homes are in choice locales and at Kalpa he lets you savour a bit of that experience. Do make sure, though, that you strike a deal with the weather gods to keep overcast grey skies at bay and let the White reign. 

Published in India Today Travel Plus, Jan-Feb 2011

The HPTDC cottage has a vantage location. There are comfortable mod-cons within its aesthetic, traditional structure. You would need to demand the best, though (housekeeping being a bit jaded). 

Hail Shiva! This is one of his many 'Kailash' abodes. Spotting the Kinner Kailash peak in this pix is akin to finding the proverbial needle in the haystack.  

The sun does shine in Kalpa, adding a glisten to the snow and surroundings. On such days the clouds tip-toe away to reveal a shy blue sky.   

Cover Girl

The photograph of the pretty girl, traditionally attired in festive finery, was clicked in Kinnaur

this May. She made it to the cover!

Published in Fly Lite, September 2010

Backpacking around Manali

{Double click PDF image above to read text}

Published in The New Indian Express, August 2010

Kinnaur: Hindustan-Tibet Road

To read, right click and select open link in new tab 

Published in The New Indian Express, June 2010

Footloose in Chamba

What’s a town without a charming legend? Chamba offers quite an engrossing bagful and I was amused by one that spoke of the whims of royalty. It dates back to Raja Bir Singh of Nurpur, in the Kangra hills, who was a friend of Raja Charrat Singh of Chamba (AD 1808-1844). He saw in Charrat an ideal match for his sister and sent across a marriage proposal. Charrat agreed immediately, however, Bir Singh’s sister astounded him by rejecting the alliance. The reason: she apparently had an Imeldian fetish for footwear and felt Chamba residents wore cloddish shoes!

Nevertheless, the marriage was solemnised. And who do you think was part of her retinue? A humble cobbler from Panj Baria village near Nurpur whose duty was to craft gorgeous zari-embroidered leather footwear for Her Majesty; in addition to attractive designs for the public so she didn’t lay her eyes on crude soles. That’s how the region got the famed ‘Chamba chappal’ for women and sandals for men, which are supposedly still stitched by descendants of the cobbler.

The shoemakers I spoke to at the local bazaar weren’t aware of a noteworthy lineage. Some, though, were familiar with the legend and took pride in narrating it. The Nikes, Reeboks and imported fakes, notwithstanding, Chamba can be seen sporting footwear once made-to-order by a princess.

Considering it’s among the few towns in the country with over thousand years of history and is culturally evolved, Chamba surprised me by its size. It turned out to be packed but quite small. In the hills everything is in diminutive dimensions. Some impregnable forts I’ve viewed in Himachal would at best correspond to a chalet. Yet, I had expected Chamba’s past to be more exaggerated in its bearings. It was, instead, typically tucked away and content to be overshadowed by commerce of the present.

To reach Chamba valley we traversed a winding state highway that meandered past pretty rice fields running up the hills and neighbourhoods of sloping slate-roofed houses. Our SUV came to a halt as the land plateaued into a green carpet around which rose a town, appearing almost as an amphitheatre. This mountain table-top was the Chaugan, Chamba’s hub. Everything—melas, picnics, protests, sports, jogging in the morning, strolls in the evening—seemed to happen here. At its foot was the gushing River Ravi, the source for hydel projects in the district, and enveloping it were snow-capped Dhauladhar and Zanskar ranges of the inner Himalayas, all combining picturesquely.

It’s best to foot around Chamba, as you can barely shift gears that an intended spot arrives. For reaching places that are steep, well, the wheels obviously don’t roll up there, so panting and copious sweating is in order, regardless of the weather.

Chamba owes its all to Raja Sahil Varman (AD 920 onwards) who is credited with establishing this as his capital. His contribution, the Laxminarayan Mandir--a complex of five stone temples built in shikhra style--stands in the centre of the market and is Chamba’s holiest spot. It is from here that the annual Manimahesh Yatra commences in July-August. Thousands roll into Chamba everyday through the three weeks of the yatra. I happened to be visiting during its last stages and saw the town buzzing with pilgrims on their way back sporting red bandanas and carrying tridents of all sizes. Lord Shiva chants would rent the air for better part of the day and night and the rush of corporates to cash in on the event and sponsor free kitchens saw food distributed at all corners.

The Suimata Temple, a small dedication to Sahil Varman’s queen who sacrificed her life so that Chamba would always have water, and Chamunda Devi Temple are the other two prominent religious spots. These are at a considerable height and I wondered if my sins had been washed after the effort I made to reach their sanctum sanctorum.

Varman’s descendants ruled Chamba ably and their seat of power, the Akhand Chandi Palace, was built centuries later by Raja Umed Singh between AD 1748-64. It overlooks the Chaugan and is the most prominent structure of Chamba. The green-roofed palace is now a college and its painted walls, stained glass windows, intricate woodwork are to be admired even as their fast deterioration, in absence of maintenance funds, is to be mourned.

According to sepia-tinted bromides, royal Chamba offered only the palace and handful other buildings. The present day district headquarters has clusters of small shops, homes, hotels and offices. As I walked its lanes I would often pause at stone-latticed havelis with prettily carved wooden doorways and window frames. Many of these are increasingly being juxtaposed with brash constructions with no sense of design. Where and when did we lose our sense of artistry and hygiene is a question that has baffled me. It’s not merely in these hills but unfortunately across the country.

Chamba is a repository of monuments, fine arts and craft. The rajas were worthy patrons and their collective wealth of art history can be seen at the Bhuri Singh Museum (one of the oldest in the country established in 1908) that has a large compilation of sculptures, costumes and miniature paintings in the Chamba, Kangra, Basholi and Guler styles. Bits of the art processes can also be spotted at its bazaars where I saw weavers on wooden handlooms making shawls; silversmiths crafting pendants; metallurgists hammering at copper to shape it into trumpets, bells and puja platters; artists working on Pahari paintings; and girls embroidering the Chamba rumal (a unique do-rukha or reversible stitch-craft embellishing cloth used for covering gifts and holy offerings).

Lamp-posts in the market, dating to the early 20th century, pointed to the arrival of electricity here far before it reached more accessible parts of the country, courtesy progressive rulers who encouraged development in all fields. It's Chamba’s glorious past that remains its calling card.

Getting there:

Road: Connected via SH 33. There are frequent buses to Chamba from across Himachal. Private taxis are easily available.

Railway: Nearest railhead is Pathankot in Punjab (120 km).

Airports: Closest airports are at Pathankot and Gagal in Kangra (187 km).

Stay: The Hptdc Hotel Iravati has comfortable accommodation, friendly staff and good food. Tariff: Rs 800 upwards.

Published 2009

Chamba Rumal

‘Firdous Handicrafts’ said the board of the shop down a narrow lane ahead of the Main Market in Chamba town. The gracious lady behind its counter was Siraj Begum, an award-winning artiste who had been honoured for her specialisation in Chamba Rumal, which I had heard was a unique style of embroidery. There were numerous pieces of the stitch-craft displayed at her small showroom and on  first glance they seemed to be simple stem-stitch embroidery. But it was not as rudimentary as it seemed. It indeed was distinctive. The technique of embroidery was double stem-stitch known as ‘dou-rukha’ the uniqueness lying in the design on either side being alike, making it reversible in use. Being a master artiste, Siraj Begum was well-versed in the history of her craft and wove a fascinating tale on the rumal’s journey.

Embellished squares

Chamba Rumal is an illustrative skill of embroidery whose origin is believed to date back to the 16th -17th century, to the royal kingdom of Chamba, in Himachal Pradesh’s north-eastern region. The embroidered pieces were called ‘rumals’ or handkerchiefs as they were usually done on square pieces of cloth.

But that’s where its similarity with a handkerchief ends. The richly embellished Chamba Rumals can be as small as 6” x 6” or as large as 5’ x 5’. These were, and continue to be,  used to cover offerings made to gods and dieties, gifts presented to royalty, weddings platters, other ritualistic items at ceremonial events like festivals and religious fairs. Moreover, traditionally it is a part of the bride’s trousseau and it's her grandmother who especially embroiders it for the marriage.

The lineage of the rumal dates back to the Pahari School of painting established by miniature artists who were given patronage by Chamba rulers after the disintegration of the Mughal Empire in the mid-18th century. The painters translated their art on to fabric and this stimulated the women of the region who took up the craft with gusto. The motifs they embroidered were largely folk style depiction of Hindu mythology and social themes. “With time the designs have come to stay and even today only a slight variation in theme can be found on the rumals that continue to exhibit original patterns, with only the colour combination having become slightly urban,” asserts Siraj Begum.

Stitch art

The cloth used for the embroidery is usually hand woven muslin. The ground fabric is white or cream and it’s the embroidery threads—handspun silk strands dyed in natural colours—that provide the arresting contrast. As the initial step, the design is drawn or traced after which the filling of figures, flora and fauna is done in dense stem stitch in such a manner that an identical pattern appears uniformly on both sides of the cloth. Upon completion, the outlines and details like facial features, pleats of a lehnga etc are worked out in with black thread making use of basic or double running stitch depending on the cloth used, as in the instance of silk. For esteemed functions and for royalty the rumals were embroidered on silk, a delicate fabric on which the artiste needed to do extremely small double-running or darning stitch. The task was laborious but the final result in silk would have the magnificence of a painting.

Krishna Ras Leela, a beautiful circular pattern of Lord Krishna with the gopis, is a dominating motif on the Chamba Rumal. In all shops across Chamba town this design was found and classically is a hot seller. Siraj Begum too had plenty of colour combinations on offer in the motif, though she admitted that it was in vibrant folkish hues that the design looked best and not in nouveau shades. Seeing the difference in presentation I couldn’t agree more. The other designs that have stood the test of time are those of mythological episodes, especially from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana, nayika (maiden), deer hunting, forest scenes with lots of trees and animals, Shiva-Parvati, Radha-Krishna, and the typically dressed Gaddi-Gaddan with lamb (shepherd couple). Chamba’s famous Minjar Fair also finds prominence on the rumal. The motifs are bordered by floral patterns, highlighting the Mughal influence in design.

New trends

Moving on from handkerchief shapes, whose use is confined to an item of décor, other products in this craft now include a variety in apparel. The restricted available range includes panelled skirts, stoles, scarves, dupattas, kurtas and saree blouses.

The Chamba Rumal was registered under Geographical Indications (GIs) of Goods Act in end 2008. The Union Government’s Geographical Registry in Chennai issued a certificate in this regard in its response to an application for registration by the Himachal Pradesh Science, Technology and Environment Department. According to standard, “the registration of GI is akin to a community patent in which case in place of an individual, the whole community of artisans, producers and other stakeholders of a GI get benefitted. This registration will grant legal protection to the embroiders of Chamba Rumal, which in turn will prevent unauthorised production and use of the term ‘Chamba Rumal’ by any producer outside the geographical region of Chamba”.


For more IMAGES, DESIGNS, INFO contact: brindasuri@gmail.com

Snowtime in Simla

She was Grandpa’s premier amour. He was smitten by her when a teenager and that was the beginning of an enduring romance. Even after he married Grandma, with whom he had a long innings, he never did forget her. For him she was an eternal beauty who always responded the way he chose: as a companion, refuge or elixir, sometimes all rolled into one. The years trotted on but nothing ever diminished his commitment towards her; not her wrinkles, not her tatters. She remained his Queen. Grandma had resigned herself to that fact and never resisted nor forbade any rendezvous he ever planned. When we queried her on it she would all-knowingly say, “First love is not easy to forget.”

The maiden in question is Shimla! Her affect on old-timers like Grandpa has to be seen to be convinced off. There’s the classic case of a friend’s NRI relative who visits India annually to avoid the cold European months. While here, the moment he hears ‘snow’ he rushes off to Shimla, defying all logic of having come to spend time in a cheerfully-mellow winter sun. “I’ve been from Alaska to Switzerland, but nowhere do you feel the magnetism of Shimla,” he always explains.

Shimla attired in her white winter ensemble holds particular charm for them. I had never been drawn to snow destinations so the only portrait I was acquainted with was Shimla in summers with its perennial rush-hour feel. Thus Grandpa and I could never agree on her status of beauty. He had seen her heydays when The Mall was a ramp for connoisseurs of elegance and concrete structures were few and far between.

It was a particularly cold morning in the winter of 2008. This was the effect of snowfall in the higher reaches, and happily for all local newspapers Shimla wrapped in snow took care of the editions’ lead picture. “You’ve never seen her in winters, why don’t you make a trip,” Grandpa proposed. I knew he would have liked to dash off but arthritic knees prevented that luxury. His suggestion was tempting and the next morning I was in Shimla. No sooner had I arrived than I looked around in disbelief. There was not a square inch of snow! I was 24 hours late. The previous day’s bright sunshine had made sure the season’s first snow-carpet did the disappearing act.

I rued missing my date with white floss as I trudged up to The Mall. Sprightly elders zipped past me even as I huffed and puffed, halting every few moments to catch my breath. At one such pit stop a local clad in the traditional coat and pahari topi began chatting. After a while as I took his leave he said, “Don’t fret. It will snow by late evening. I can smell it.” My olfactories smelt nothing; and I was certain his too had failed him when it was way past sundown and no sign of snow. It had been an exhausting, disappointing day and I retired early.

Despite the layers I was clad in, the night had been uncomfortably cold and I was up early. An inky blue dawn sky was peeping through the window and as I walked up to the balcony I noticed that quite bizarrely the colour was being reflected from the entire township. It took me a while comprehending the visual imagery and then my eyes stayed peeled. It had snowed!

Apparently snowfall began late last evening. Never again would I doubt a local. They know the scent of snow.

I stood in the balcony till the sky wore some blush-on. It was no picture postcard I had been looking at. It was real and the experience was sublime. What heightened the affect was the contrast; the myriad hues of yesterday’s muck and mundane had disappeared and all that was visible were the shades of purity. Now I know why the many who courted the Snow Maiden did. Attired in a sinuous robe of pristine white she appeared breathtakingly beautiful. One stellar stroke from nature’s brush had magically transformed her.

I stepped out of the motel for my maiden walk in the snow. The town was waking up and only once in a while did someone appear adding colour to the whitescape. As I strolled past its landmarks —the Scottish Church and State Library on the Ridge, Gaiety Theatre and gabled-roof shops on The Mall— Shimla looked a painter’s canvas. From trees to trails to buildings, they all wore a new expression. Snow had brought in a dimension where bare was beautiful. It felt God belonged to the school of surrealism. What I was witnessing was the annual presentation of his art-work. And each composition was a masterpiece.

As I approached Scandal Point tiny cottony balls began flying in my direction and I wondered what that was. Snowfall? Ah! It was my day. Within minutes snowflakes began melting on my hands and eyelashes. The flakes barely embraced before they disappeared. If rain is a resounding raga, snow is silence in motion and quite spectacular. I walked some miles in the snowfall and in those few hours savoured a lifetime.

For the return journey I opted for the narrow gauge railway route and travelling through snow by train was the perfect cherry on the top.

On arrival I showed Grandpa digi-shots of Shimla. For me these were mere images. For him they were frames of nostalgia. He beamed when I told him she was majestic. “I’ve always maintained that,” he said triumphantly.

It’s fortunate my trip materialised. Grandpa passed away shortly after. I’m sure his Queen shed a tear.

Published in The New Indian Express, January 2010

Old Manali

http://www.itgo.in/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=309&Itemid


Published in India Today Travel Plus April 2008

Deja Vu

It’s a one road, two hotel, four shop, six home, dozen horse and plenty of potato and apple town. That equation hasn’t changed in years. Fagu seems like a déjà vu hamlet. It has remained just the way it was when I visited it 20 years back. Picturesque, verdant, quiet, slow yet engaging. It’s a blessing how it has managed to retain that charming touch despite rampant concretisation taking place all over Himachal. That fact is more surprising, and comforting at the same time, as it’s mere 22 km from state capital Shimla, where the deodars have made way for a brick and mortar jungle that keeps expanding its limits, throwing all ecology caution to the winds.


Water Colours
It was blazing hot in the plains when we set off for Fagu. A casual cardigan is about all that went into the bag. How cold could it be up there, when Shimla too was reeling under the heat? Grandpa had warned us of more than occasional downpour in the hamlet and how cold it got. “Definitely take rainwear along,” he stressed. We listened to him but didn’t think it necessary to heed the advice. We couldn’t have been caught more deliciously on the backfoot. It rained, no it poured the moment we landed. As accompaniment, the wind howled and we shivered. Grandpa knows these hills like the back of his palm. He deserved more respect from us. We saluted him, and ruing our fate gunned for cover, snuggling into the warmth of the quilts. Hours later when the mobiles began chiming, with lesser mortals from the scorched plains complaining about the heat, we elaborated on how comfortably we were placed in cool climes. No, we didn’t tell them we walked around the hotel foyer in borrowed blankets.

The rain adds an impressionist dimension to the Fagu canvas. We didn’t move out of the hotel room. We didn’t need to. Our windowscape was exhilarating enough. In front of us were blue rolling hills offset by lush green vales neatly contoured with terraced fields. The one odd home with bright roof added a speck of colour to the panorama. The rain bought in curls of mist that softly settled around an apple tree or sat plum on a potato field. The vista looked ethereal and at our feet the electric heater felt blissful.

At 2,450 m, Fagu is at a higher altitude than Shimla and being hugged by valleys the winds get trapped in the bowl, adding to the chill factor. Locals said they never moved out without a warm cover or an umbrella, both being prerequisites as we realised. The weather here changes before you can drop the proverbial hat, or rain-cap in this case.


Field marshals
Sometimes it doesn’t rain in Fagu. Sometimes the sun spreads its splendour. That’s the time you should set off to explore. The pine hilltop, at the edge of a spur, had carpets of dainty daisies, making the hill appear like a frame out of the vale of flowers. Down in the valleys the potato fields were a sea of green with the sporadic white blossom and apple trees had button-size fruit bunched on branches. I met the lady farm owner and got chatting about profits of the produce. We mange well, she said. “She does very well,” her neighbour chipped in. “Last year she had a turnover of Rs 40 lakh!” She smiled. I seriously began contemplating not to bother posting my CV on job sites and instead concentrating on improving my spading skills.

Residents also make an extra buck by offering horse rides in nearby Kufri and their handsome steeds can be spotted grazing in the hills early morning before they set out to work.

The only visible change in Fagu is of some homes shedding their traditional slate and wood architecture for modern finishing. Himachal Tourism’s Hotel Peach Blossom, where we checked in, used to be slate-roofed structure with fire-place etc but it had weathered and in its place now stands a new construction with contemporary trappings. Comfortable, yes, but the former was cosy. There’s another hotel on the hilltop about which the less said the better.

Fagu is a weekend retreat. For times when you have want to do nothing. When you do feel like adding a bit of spice to nothingness there’s Kufri and its pony rides six km away; Shimla and its Mall packed with honeymooners is a half-hour drive (would have been faster but for the traffic); Narkanda is double digit miles away where you can romp through cherry orchards or munch on any fruit of your choice day long; yonder is Thanedar; where the American Graham Stokes planted the first few grafts of the red apple strain known today as the Kotgarhi that changed the face of Himachal’s economy. Further ahead is…Halt! At times one needs to do nothing.

Factfile

Railway: Kalka (35 km from Chandigarh) is the nearest broad gauge railhead. The Kalka-Shimla narrow gauge is amongst the world’s oldest and can be connected to Delhi via Chandigarh (Kalka Mail and Shatabdi Express).
Road distances: Shimla (22 km), Kufri (6 km), Chandigarh (142 km), Delhi (400 km)
Accommodation: HPTDC’s Hotel Peach Blossom 01783-239469

Published Jetwings