Draped in Warmth

The luxuriously soft and embroidered Kashmiri shawls have been worn from antiquity. Brinda Suri writes how they are, and will remain a prized possession

Kani shawl 

The uniqueness about handicraft is how it is representative of epoch, place and culture. When the three are seamlessly interwoven, that piece of craft becomes timeless. A remarkable illustration of one such contemporary classic is the Kashmiri shawl. 

When temperatures in north India hover in single digits, shawls and stoles from Kashmir are draped in style. Almost every wardrobe usually has a splendid pashmina sozni (needlework, from the Persian term soz which means needle) hand-me-down, lovingly passed on from the grandmother, to the mother, to the daughter. Some of these are tremendously gush-worthy and almost always have a delicious story of how they became a prized possession.

Papier Mache shawl

Though the delicately-embroidered sozni is a must-have and in constant demand, choices in the Kashmiri shawl have increased over the past few years with lost techniques having been slowly, but surely revived in the Valley. Winters now mean flaunting the woven kani, the painted and embroidered kalamkari or the bold-patterned papier mache shawls.

Royal patronage

While the origin of shawls in Kashmir remains obscure, the craft definitely goes back a few hundred years. Historical records dating to the 15th century throw light on patronage provided to the embroidered and woven craft by royalty, particularly the much-admired eighth Sultan of Kashmir Zain-ul-Abadein and later Mughal emperor Akbar and his sons Jahangir and Shah Jahan. There is a very compelling note on the splendour of Kashmir’s shawls by Abul Fazl, one of the navratans, nine gems, of Akbar’s court and author of Akbaranama and Ain-i-Akbari. In the latter work Fazl mentions how pashmina was a luxury export article from Kashmir to many countries. It was Akbar, says Fazl, who encouraged the development of jamavar, pashmina fabric woven in running length so it could be tailored into the jama, the flowing tunic-like dress worn by men in those times. These jamas were intricately embroidered and sometimes in such a way that the base material was not visible. Overtime heavily patterned shawls, whether embroidered or woven, came to be known as jamavars.

A kani is considered to be one of the most complicated weaving techniques of the textile world. Skilled artisans employ the double interlock twill tapestry weave to create its distinctive patterns. Kani literally means small sticks, and these are what construct the design. Coloured threads are wound on the kanis which are subsequently used as bobbins that are gently passed through the finely-laid warp and weft by the weaver. For a complex design over a thousand such kanis can be used to build the pattern. So painstaking is the process that in a day barely an inch can be woven. The reason a kani takes almost a year to complete and commands a premium price.

Stunning Designs

Sozni pashmina 

The kalamkari shawl on the other hand is lighter in work but looks equally stunning. In a kalmakari, traditionally the entire design is painted with a wood kalam, pen, after which it’s handed over to the embroider who highlights the outlines and fills certain motifs to lend an embossed look to the shawl. These days the digital printing technique is being ingeniously used to make the coloured pattern and bringing down the shawl cost.

A vibrant play of colours and design is the distinguishing feature of the papier mache shawl. They ape the painted patterns of the papier mache art seen on boxes and other artefacts. A variety of stitches is used on this shawl and what makes it stand apart from other sozni shawls is the use of minute knots throughout the pattern which truly gives it a painted papier mache feel.

The rich catalogue of shawls of Kashmir is an acknowledgment of the artistic talents of the Valley. Where once only men were involved in the arts, now women too, are being trained in all forms of embroidery. Women putting down their signature designs on the embroidered classics is a sign of the changing times.

Published in Deccan Herald, March 2020

Read more at: https://www.deccanherald.com/sunday-herald/sunday-herald-melange/draped-in-warmth-813301.html

Kashmir: The Lotus Eaters

http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/the-lotus-eaters/article23438898.ece

Kashmir: Beauty continued...

https://www.deccanherald.com/sunday-herald/beauty-continued-667143.html

The shepherd’s cheese

The Gujjars of Jammu Kashmir are
 the creators of the soft kaladi

On green hills in the shadows of the Pir Panjal range, the Gujjars or shepherds have quietly been making something utterly gourmet. The world fashionably calls it artisanal cheese. They simply call it kaladi. So little is known about it beyond these mountains that kaladi could well be the state’s best-kept secret.

I learn about it unexpectedly, in keeping with the tradition of getting some of the best leads on culinary trails from the most improbable sources. On my maiden trip to Jammu aboard the Malwa Express, my co-passenger, a soldier posted on the Indo-Pak border, turns out to be a ready-reckoner on the region’s cuisine. “You have to taste the kaladi, else your trip to Jammu is incomplete,” he insists.

A mere mention of it to my friend PB, a fellow journalist I’m visiting, and she ensures I sample kaladi the local way. “It’s unique to this region. They say it’s like mozzarella, but if you ask me it beats its Italian cousin by miles,” she grins, describing it with a zeal matching the soldier’s, as we drive to the popular eatery Pahalwan’s, established in 1934 and initially a milk shop typical to the hills.

PB asks for kaladi-kulcha, which seems to be the fastest selling item on the evening menu. In appearance, the raw kaladi is a nondescript off-white roundel, with the pungency of ripened cheese. It acquires a whole new meaning, though, when it is slapped on to a tawa, lightly fried till it releases its fat to turn a lovely golden-brown on both sides, placed inside a warm kulcha, seasoned with salt and chillies and served with accompaniments of mint and tamarind chutney. One bite of this deliciousness and I know why this fare is a winner. It’s robust and subtle at the same time: a pillowy-soft kulcha complementing a kaladi that is crisp on the surface but all stringy and molten inside, the mild sweetness of the ghee it’s fried in and finally the dash of spices. The kaladi is also served by itself but the bit of carb (kulcha/ bun) adds to its comfort-food factor.

Pahalwan’s sells around 150 kg of kaladi a day. It’s possible that Jammu and neighbouring districts produce several thousand kilos of this regional favourite, found at almost every street corner. I turn to Pahalwan’s Satpal Abrol for a response. The kaladi, he says, has long been part of these hills and Dogra cuisine. The fact that it was prepared on a small scale in high-altitude pockets limited its presence to the region. “Now it’s commercially made in cities but till a few years back, it was only the Gujjars who’d sell it. Kaladi used to be a summer special, made only when the shepherds ascended to the mountaintops with their herds. They curdled the unsold milk — which didn’t last long in that weather — to make kaladi,” he says.

The Gujjars use rustic pots to make the cheese, shape it by hand and ripen it in the sun on a bed of pine leaves. I recall the soldier telling me Ramnagar in Udhampur district is renowned for its kaladi. Abrol agrees, saying for an authentic taste, one needs to visit a Gujjar kitchen.

Later on a trip to Kashmir, I get a flavour of the original in the picturesque town of Aru, near Pahalgam. I’m sipping kehwa at a tea shop, when I spot a cluster of pheran-clad men scrutinising a pile of pale-cream discs that a Gujjar lady — clad in long shirt and embroidered topi — has pulled out of her cloth bag. “It’s doodh roti,” one of the men tells me as he pays a pittance for 20 pieces. “We call it maish krej in Kashmiri. In Jammu region, it’s known as kaladi,” another chips in. The shape of the Gujjar variety is different but the preparation is similar and so is the manner in which it’s relished by locals. The Gujjars, however, have it the gourmet way: grilled on wood-fire.

Has nobody thought of branding this soft cheese? My question is answered at a food store in Srinagar, where I discover vacuum-packed kaladi manufactured by a Dutchman settled in Pahalgam.

Published in BLink, The Hindu Business Line. 

Aru: Kashmiri khander (wedding) and the wazwan

 Aru is a charming pocket-size hamlet close to Pahalgham. We are on a day-trip here and have footed around it, admired its beauteous sights and squinting green meadows, plucked apples off trees, done the pony rides, got an enthusiastic update on the list of movies shot here and are about to head back to base when we ask our cabbie Khursheed if there is something very typical to the village we can see. He mulls over for a bit before hesitatingly asking if we would be keen in seeing a typical Kashmiri village khander (wedding). Could we have asked for anything better! 

The next moment we are being welcomed at the bride's sprawling home. It is the wedding of Shaheena. Her groom has arrived from a few villages away and is shyly sitting with the boys. Maqbool Hasan, the bride's father, is playing the gracious host and immediately comes forward to greet us. As pleasantries are being exchanged we witness a flurry of activity. The wazwan has been announced. We ask Hasan if we can stay on for a while and take a look at the proceedings. "Surely! I invite you to partake of the wazwan with us," he says hospitably.  

In a Kashmiri wedding, the wazwan, a multi-course feast, is the epitome of celebrations and the most important person after the couple is the vasta waza, or head chef. It's not unusual for parents to postpone the marriage if the waza of their choice is not available on the chosen day! Hasan triumphantly says he was lucky to have booked the waza in time as autumn is the season for weddings. He marches us to the spot where the backroom boys, the junior wazas, are getting ready to present the fare with a flourish. 

Preparation for the wazwan had begun the night before when the vasta waza had arrived with his band of wazas. Usually their number is anywhere between 15 to 50, depending on the size of the gathering. The term wazwan means 'cook's shop’, which was until the contemporary world gave the expression a whole new twist of a sensory experience, which it definitely is.  

Behind the scene

The pots are bubbling with all that’s to be served in a while and there is a heady mix of aromas. "The preparation is exacting and every step is done at the venue, from grinding of spices to pounding of meat. Each ingredient has to be fresh; the concept of something coming out of the cold storage is non-existent," a waza tells us. An emulsion of onion-garlic-pran (shallots), whole spices and moval or dried cockscomb for colouring are some of the basic ingredients in the Muslim style of cooking. The Pandits prefer using crushed spices, asafoetida and red chillies. Mustard oil, saunf (aniseed), saunth (ginger powder) and saffron remain common to both. With the Valley reaping a bountiful harvest of fruit, dried as well as fresh fruits are also tossed into dishes.    

The wazwan is cooked traditionally in a veurabal or an open-air kitchen, in large round-bottomed, small-necked copper pots and on wood-fire. A customised fireplace, about 12' -15' long and around 1.5' high, is created for the purpose. "This arrangement is known as veura," Hasan enlightens us, adding, "In Kashmiri cooking ingredients are added at regular intervals and need to be stirred constantly. The convenient height and length of the veura facilitates that. Customarily, ours is slow cooking—the culinary art having travelled here from Persia centuries ago—and the regulated heat of firewood is ideal for that." I compliment Hasan on his almost-academic style of explanation at which he laughs heartily and says, "We are all passionate about food. We don't like our flavours messed up (read fusion). A dish should taste as it always has. We may eat little but we will have only the best!" 

The gathering is settling down for the wazwan and we do not want to intrude right away. Moreover, we are keen to meet the bride. Hasan readily agrees and yells out to his wife. She leads us upstairs to an unadorned room where sits Shaheena attired in radiant red, looking pretty in her simplicity. She is surrounded by a crowd of aunts, cousins, nieces and nephews. Her marriage rituals are yet to take place and she has an anxious expression. Someone teases her on that and she breaks into a smile. We chat with her for a while and intrigue her with our status: women of all ages from one family. As we are about to leave, almost instantly and true to tradition, we dip into our wallets and present her shagun (token). She is initially reluctant to take it but when the eldest among us says it is dua (blessing) she smilingly agrees. Seated next to Shaheena is her brother making a note of all she’s been receiving. He asks his mother how he should put down our token. "From mas (maternal aunts) and beni (sisters)," she smiles, immediately forging a bond the way only Indians can!  

The Feast

Wedding guests are sprawled all over the garden and a few men have taken their place on the dastarkhawan (floor-covering) as they await the servers to come around with the first course of the wazwan. We are lead to the shamiyana (ceremonial tent) meant for women, who are sitting huddled on the ground and happily chatting. Looking at them is like seeing a sea of luminous faces sans any adornment, dressed in bright pherans and colourful head-scarves. What beauty! If there is one aspect that has refreshingly stood out in this village wedding it is the lack of extravagance. It is a cosy affair; a sharp contrast to ostentatious city weddings.

The arrival of an attendant carrying a tash-t-nari, the traditional jug and basin meant for washing hands at your individual place, signals the start of the service. It is truly a page out of old-world hospitality, decadent to say the least. Next follows the all-important trami or large nickle-plated copper platter laden with fragrant steamed rice (it’s a locally grown variety) topped with a long seek kebab (skewered mutton) running the length of the dish, and two servings of methi maz (mutton cooked with fenugreek) on either side. Each trami, about 18" in diameter, is shared by four persons and the methi maaz in a way demarcates boundaries as guests tunnel their way through the rice with their hands—cutlery is a no-no—to savour the first course, which is a sort of mezze. The next item is two large pieces of tabak maaz (ribs marinated in curd and pan-fried) and kokar (chicken in gravy). There is complete silence in the shamiyana as the ladies are all engrossed in the food. The servers are the only ones rushing in and out with big pots.     

​​The second course follows soon and the first to be served is rista (mutton balls in reddish gravy), and in sequence comes daniwala qorma (mixed meat curry), ruvangan chaman (cottage cheese in tomato gravy) and ab gosht (meat prepared in milk). Each dish has a distinct lip-smacking flavour and colour. An assortment of tangy chutneys made with walnut and radish are the accompaniments as are small bowls of sweetened curd, the sweetness subtly blunting the salt-spice and adding to the enhancement of flavours. The final dish of the feast is gustaba (mutton balls in silken textured curd gravy). It's a large ball and only one piece is served per trami; and in a way it’s the full-stop to a wazwan. A round of firni (rice pudding) and many rounds of kehva (cardamom flavoured green tea served with slivers of almond), however, follow.   

"The wazwan in a big city like Srinagar will have many more servings per course. A lot of it goes waste. Around 1.5 kg to 2 kg assorted meat per trami is more than sufficient. In the villages we believe in delighting our guests but not going overboard."Hasan tells us. While my family has enjoyed eating from a trami, being a vegetarian I relished just a bit of the food; but what an experience it has been. A wazwan is truly a culinary celebration! Aru will always remain special on that account.

Getting there:Srinagar-Pahalgam is 4.5 hrs by road. Pahalgam to Aru is 12 km.   

 Published Jetwings May 2016

Handicraft: Kashmir

Clockwise from top left: Basketry; crewel work or aari; papier mache; walnut wood carving; kangri; namda made with sheep wool; copper work; gabba or appliqué rug; pheran with tilla dozi  

The Kashmir valley is known for an assortment of exquisite handicrafts. Did you know a preacher sowed the seeds of craft here? Here's how...

Persian palette

Unlike the rest of the country, craft in Kashmir has its roots in Persia or present day Iran. History says Persian preacher Shah-e-Hamadan arrived in Kashmir around the 13th century with an aim to spreading Islam. He came with a huge set of followers among whom were artists and craftspersons who excelled in papier-mache, coppersmithing, wood carving, embroidery, carpet-weaving, calligraphy and more. They soon got down to work in the Valley, besides also imparting training to locals in skills they were adept in.

It’s said Shah-e-Hamadan encouraged the spread of craft so that the locals could keep themselves busy during the harsh winter months when there was little else to do than be huddled indoors. It would also lead to a boost in the region's economy, he felt.  The preacher’s prediction proved correct and over time the Valley became a flourishing hub of quality handicraft, along the way developing a unique style that was a blend of local and Persian elements. As a dedication to the saint, the Khanqah-e-Moula was built by the banks of river Jhelum in Srinagar. It remains one of the most striking structures in the Valley and is an outstanding example of Kashmiri-Central Asian architecture. When visiting Downtown (or the old parts of the city) this beauty in wood should be on your must-see list.

Mughal vocabulary

Kashmir’s craft drew appreciation and was always in demand, attracting its share of global buyers too. Political unrest in the Valley, however, saw a steady decline in the crafts and it was only when the art-loving Mughals took over Kashmir in the 16th century that a revival was witnessed. As craftspersons began receiving royal patronage the cottage industry got a much-needed fillip.

The Mughals were proud of their roots and always kept alive the connection with Samarkand, their ancestral land, by promoting its excellent arts. Indeed, Hindustan was enriched by their aesthetics. Kashmiri craftspersons too gained from Mughal inputs and happily included Central Asian expression in their art.

European tones

By the 19th century the British were well entrenched in India and Kashmir became their favourite summer retreat. They too were charmed by the wizardry of the artisans; not only did they become one of the biggest patrons of the arts, but also lent their views and refined the products further. It was now that crafts got a slight European twist in colour tones and patterns.

As the British could not buy land in the Valley they set up houseboats, which became their seasonal abode. They tapped into local skills to dress these residences, giving artists a unique canvas to show their creativity. The houseboats were the beginning of yet another industry in Kashmir, one that remains a major source of tourism revenue.

One look around the craft shops in the cities of at melas and you’ll realize every item on the shelf is not just a piece of decoration but something you can affectionately use. It’s said it were the British who taught craftsperson to make their craft utilitarian. This shift was received well and ever since there has been no looking back for craft stemming from the Valley. 

Published Deccan Herald, Feb 2015

Hotel Review: The Khyber Himalayan Resort

Spa...licious

White luxury in Gulmarg

Snowflakes playfully twirl outside my window. They seem akin to little artists at work and it’s mesmerising seeing them paint the landscape white. I’m watching this poetry in motion from a room filled with the subtle fragrance of essential oils.

The capable hands of a massage therapist are gently easing the knots in my body. She’s been diligently at work, and the almond firming paste scrub I’ve opted for promises to leave me sparkling. Sparkle or not, I’m immersed in the twin pleasures of spa and snowfall in this wellness wing with a view at a hotel in Gulmarg. It seems surreal.

Has the thought of a stimulating spa therapy amidst snow-clad mountains been your idea of indulgence? Think no further and head to Gulmarg, in the alluring Kashmir valley, to fulfil this cherished desire. What’s more, you can still make a quick dash and return refreshed, for though the summer winds have started heating up the country, here snow is still cladding the hills ice-cream white and regaling visitors.

Many firsts
Of Kashmir it’s said, if you have seen it once you’ve not seen it all. Every season has its own colours. In spring, almond and cherry trees are laden with dainty pink or white flowers, myriad wild blossoms as well as cultivated lavender colour the vistas in summer, and come autumn the chinars begin turning auburn while the saffron fields become lilac. Finally arrives winter and dresses it all in regal white.

That is when Gulmarg too takes on a new hue. The name of the town literally means meadow (or marg from the Persian tern margh) of flowers (gul). Snow erases that meaning, as it softly but scintillatingly goes about its business of texturing the alpine town all white. This is the time skiers descend from around the world to glide down its perfect powder-snow slopes. Tourists also rush in to build the mandatory snowman, excitedly fire snowballs at each other, go snowboarding and enjoy being shoved around on sledges or speeding on snow-scooters. I’m doing neither. Rejuvenation is my only agenda.

Snow and more 

It’s still snowing when I walk out from the spa, the almond scrub having worked its magic on me. I plan to soak in the outside from the warm interiors of the aesthetically-designed chaikash, the tea lounge, and settle myself near the window with a steaming hot cup of fragrant kahwa. Other guests have the same idea and soon there is quite a crowd in raptures over what they are witnessing. Enthusiasm at viewing a fairy-tale setting prompts comparisons with foreign locales and conversation gets peppered with star destinations from around the world.

All that comes to a hush when a foreign traveller, who’s returned from a successful ski outing, zealously announces, “Gulmarg is incomparable!” Everyone tunes into his ode to the town and they feel quite pleased on being at the right place at the right time. Some guests corroborate what he says about the region’s beauty with their own stunning experiences of visiting Mt Apharwat Peak (13,780 ft) that’s connected to Gulmarg via the Gondola or cable car, which reportedly is the highest and longest in Asia.

The cable car is one of the biggest attractions of Gulmarg and tourists have the option of taking a ride up to the first stage, Kongdoori, or going further — almost up above the world — to Apharwat, the second and final level. Apart from the breathtaking views at the summit, it’s known for the 1.5-km trek to the frozen Alpather Lake, something that’s for the adventurous alone.

I’m charmed by Gulmarg. It’s small and beautiful. And complete. It has always been recognised as the winter capital of India. In summers, it’s a golfing haven with its century-old golf club boasting of the longest course in the country. Its newest attribute, the all-weather spa, has ensured it’s become a wellness destination too.

Factfile:

Getting here: Daily flights from all metros to Srinagar (65 km/2 hrs from Gulmarg)  

Stay: The Khyber (www.khyberhotels.com)

Activities: Ride in the cable car, hiking, golf 

Must eat/drink: Kehwa, Gushtaba (meat balls in curd curry), haak (aromatic local spinach)

Published in Deccan Herald

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/404045/archives.php

Call of the Chinars

 http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/article3808002.ece 

Staying options: Nedou’s, Gulmarg (www.nedoushotels.com): Over a century old, it's quaint, quirky and immensely charming.  Pahalgam Hotel, Pahalgam (www.pahalgamhotel.com): Conveniently located on the main road and by the lovely River Lidder it's aesthetic and elegant. Dastan (www.dastanhouseboat.com) & New Gulistan Palace (www.newgulistanpalace.com), Srinagar: Tastefully furnished, these boats of the Guru family are in a peaceful edge of the Dal Lake and provide unrestricted view of the scenic mountainscape 

Published in Hindu Business Line, September 2012 

Srinagar & Leh: Of domes and minarets

Srinagar: Juma Masjid

Held in the embrace of snow-capped massifs in the folds of the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges, two distinct civilizations emerged within a few hundred km of each other in the Indian subcontinent to give the world an absorbing culturescape to explore. Though grouped under one province, the cold desert-plateau of Ladakh and the valley of Kashmir are chalk and cheese and a journey across their dividing mountains is a picture of stunning contrasts. Diverse geography shaped the lives of the two people and defined their architecture. Remarkably, religion too was deeply linked with societal changes and the region’s shrines present an evocative expression of that.

Buddhism and Islam are the two dominating religions and cross-cultural influences, particularly Central Asian, are evident in structures of both faiths. To a visitor, whereas monasteries and pagodas will come across as familiar in appearance it’s mosques and ziarats that make for an intriguing study, standing apart from the customary domed images.  

Kashmir: Aesthetic Central 

It’s often said, preachers and invaders have shaped the history of Kashmir. Besides a lot else, their legacy is seen in the incredible architecture dotting Srinagar, especially the older parts of town that exude a medieval air. Central Asian influence replaced Hinduism-Buddhism with Islam and also redefined its structural design. Brickwork was borrowed, timber detailing stepped in for stone, buildings became cubical and slender, and roofs emerged as the most distinguishing feature: conical or pyramidal finials atop the main structure. In some cases a few conical caps overlap, and are considered a classical European influence.

The pick amongst Srinagar’s shrines is the Khanqah-e-Moulla, a dedication to Iranian sufi Shah Hamadan who’s credited with sowing the seed of Islam in the Valley. Originally built in AD 1395 and rebuilt the third time in AD 1731, it embodies elements of Kashmir’s artistic competence. A quaint square structure in wood, its elegance is visible in the papier-mâché ceiling and distinctive latticed windows.

The Juma Masjid in Nowhatta is another significant pyramidal-roofed edifice. Fine brickwork marks it four identical gateways and the highlight of its large interiors is 370 pillars, each being a single deodar tree trunk. Almost all areas in old Srinagar have a dedication of sort. Khanyar is known for the ziarats of Dastgeer Sahib and Naqashband Sahib, two saints who did not visit the Valley but whose word spread here through their followers who brought their relics and built the memorials. These shrines are defined by a set of green conical roofs, glass windows and khatamband (square wood pieces) ceiling. Two noticeable features around most shrines in Srinagar is the space for feeding pigeons and the series of halwai shops.

Further away, at the base of Hari Parbat, the Makhdoom Sahib ziarat is another immensely revered spot. On the banks of the Dal Lake and looking distinctly different from this line-up is the domed Hazratbal.

There’s a tranquil magnetism about these shrines and in many way it’s their structures that exude a peaceful aura.   

Leh: Jama Masjid

Ladakh: Nature's Canvas 

In contrast to the fertile landscape of Kashmir, harsh and inaccessible topography determined the architecture of Ladakh. Buildings are terraced and box like with flat roofs and small windows, a design that counters severe temperatures. The material used is mud, stone, timber, all locally available and suitable for an area with scanty rainfall.

Similar to Tibet in terrain and tradition, Ladakh was most influenced by it. Central Asian influences began creeping in with Leh developing as a major trading centre on the Silk Route. As acknowledgment for their role in boosting economy, around AD 1640 land began being offered to traders, usually from Kashmir, to settle in Leh. Permission was also given to build a mosque; and Masjid Sharif in Chutayrangtak area is reportedly Leh’s oldest. Mosque façades seamlessly blended with their surroundings with subtle elements distinguishing them, as less ornate windows when compared to Buddhist structures. 

Talking about the slant towards symbolisation of Islam and its affect on local architecture, Leh-based eminent historian and author, Abdul Ghani Sheikh says, “Today the influence of Turko-Iranian elements—dome and minaret—are conspicuous in the two main mosques in Leh, the Jama Masjid in Main Bazaar and the Shi'a Imamia Masjid a little ahead. These changes surfaced in the 20th century. Prior to this there was no difference between a Muslim and Buddhist building, with both following conventional architecture. The mosques at best had a small, slender wooden crown, not as prominent as the Turko-onion domes."

Sheikh's collection of essays, 'Reflections on Ladakh, Tibet and Central Asia' (2010), is an insightful work on trans-region influences. In the chapter 'Islamic architecture in Leh' he has narrated legends of the Namgyal dynasty that ruled Ladakh and their role in the peaceful co-existence of Islam and Buddhism. "Intermarriages between Muslims from Baltistan and Buddhists of Ladakh were not considered out of place, with there being a tradition of each partner following his/her own faith. In fact this was the case till quite recently in Ladakh,” Sheikh enlightens, adding, “The most illustrious alliance dates back to the 17th century when King Jamyang Namgyal of Ladakh tied the knot with princess Gyal Khatun, daughter of the Shi'a king of Khaplu, Baltistan. Khatun remained a Muslim, but her son Senge Namgyal, became the most distinguished Buddhist ruler of Ladakh.”

Peace and preservation

There was, and still continues to be, a high level of tolerance between communities in Leh and this has a lot to do with no historical baggage of animosity despite concessions made between rulers of different faiths. “In AD 1681 when the Mongols invaded Ladakh, Mughal assistance was sought to deal with the enemy. Aurangzeb’s Mughal forces under Nawab Fidai Khan crushed the raid; and as a price Ladakhi king Deldan Namgyal granted land for a mosque to Sunni Muslims at the foot of the Leh Palace. This is where the Jami’a or Jama Masjid stands today,” explains Sheikh.

The wave of religious zeal has played a role in changing the four walls of worship. On the other hand, it’s a passion for preservation that has seen the restoration of the oldest mosque in Leh to near-original shape. Once in a dilapidated condition, the Masjid Sharif, known as Tsas Soma or New Garden Mosque, has been painstakingly restored by the Tibetan Heritage Fund International. It’s replete with Ladakhi elements as pillars, paper lamps, roof waterproofing with mar-kalag mud or butter-mud, wood floors etc.

As a connect between the two cultures stands the now-restored Shey mosque, said to be the first in Ladakh and built by Shah Hamadan. Following his decade-long stay in Kashmir, he departed for Central Asia, en route stopping in Ladakh. The mosque has both Kashmiri and Ladakhi features and gets its share of worshippers and travellers alike.

Quick facts:

Road: The Manali-Leh route is open from June to September and the Leh–Srinagar road between May to October.

For more info: www.jktourism.org

Published in JetWings, April 2011

Beyond Srinagar: Portraits of a Valley

Silently-busy morning on the water highways of Kashmir 

Somewhere in between the glamorous and the exaggerated lies the real cinema, a mirror to the world. Many stories of our times have been effectively projected by it and one of these is the script of an altering Kashmir. For the Indian film industry of the Sixties, Kashmir was the backdrop for almost all boy-meet-girl flicks, and one that famously captured the romance of the era was ‘Kashmir ki Kali’ and its classic song Yeh chand sa roshan chehra filmed on the beautiful Dal Lake with a dandy Shammi Kapoor wooing a coy Sharmila Tagore. Cut to present day cinema on Kashmir, and we have an inventory of militancy-centric films, be it the acclaimed Roja, Mission Kashmir, Sikandar or the now-awaited Harud. From portrayal of paradisiacal moments to screenplays of unrest, the canvas of Kashmir has unfortunately changed. What has, nonetheless, remained unchanged is its spellbinding natural beauty that unfailingly draws the traveller who usually returns thoroughly enchanted with a desire to revisit.

So enduring is this picturesque mosaic of Kashmir that nothing has managed to diminish its appeal, not even the trail of travails the land has been a witness to for over a decade now. In many ways, the popular snapshots owe their longevity to standard government websites and brochures; to the aforementioned era of Indian films that lavishly projected them on screen; and most of all to poetry the landscape evokes, enthralling commoner and royalty alike, leading a certain Jahangir to famously exclaim “If there’s paradise on earth, it’s here…” a quote that continues to sketch an alluring picture of the Valley.

Popular postcards

Tulip Garden: In bloom between mid-March & end-April

Think Kashmir and the first image to waltz into the mind is Srinagar’s Dal Lake with its elfin shikaras, followed by a sequence of frames which include, skiing in neighbouring Gulmarg, the lovely Lidder river frolicking through Pahalgam, the squinting-blue lakes and rainbow-coloured grasslands of Sonamarg etc. This is the well-known, oft-visited Kashmir. Lying quietly beyond are its relatively unknown pockets waiting to be explored.

Despite rampant urbanisation Srinagar remains a pretty spot with lots to charm a visitor. There’s its bouquet of Mughal Gardens (a worthy addition to this is the Tulip Garden off Dal Lake that’s in bloom from mid-March to end-April), traditional embodiments found at Downtown, inviting houseboats, the quintessential floating market, chinar-fringed golf-courses, and much more. It’s a fine base for several rewarding excursions too and the month ahead is ripe to set-out to make your own little discoveries.

Natural canvas

The Valley has distinctive biodiversity and one of the places to get familiar with it is at the seemingly-boundless Wular Lake (45 km appx), lying between the towns of Sopore and Bandipore. Considered among the continent’s largest fresh-water lake, the River Jhelum fills its basin before moving on. Wular’s ecosphere makes it home for a remarkable variety of avifauna and the fag-end-winter temperature of March is still a good time for birding enthusiasts to get acquainted with the Central Asian migratory population that nestles in its waters. For birders, another notable habitat is the Hokersar wetland (12 km), where encroachments and gun-shots had affected arrivals, but recent reports suggest increased avian landings. While on the fauna trail, the Dachigam National Park (23 km) is an unspoiled landscape to visit. If fortune is on your side there will be a chance of spotting its most prized resident, the endangered hangul (Kashmiri stag), the only species of red deer found in the country.

The tapestry of Kashmir is filled with aqua hues of its myriad lakes, rivers and springs. These have influenced the region’s culture and been a muse for poets and artists. If driving into Kashmir, a few km after the NH 1A zips out of the Banihal Pass in the lap of the Pir Panjal Range, a few detours lead to a string of places with the ‘nag’ suffix, denoting ‘spots with spring- water’. These have been developed for tourism and among the line-up are Anantnag (known for the ancient Martand temple considered an architectural masterpiece), Kokernag (which as its name suggests has a spring whose waters spread like the claws of the cock) and Verinag (the source of River Jhelum). Standing a league apart and about 45 km off Anantnag towards Shopian, is the flamboyant Aharbal waterfall, said to be the Valley’s best. Its water originates at Kousernag and on reaching the rock crevice here lets out a roar as it cascades down 24 mt amidst a surrounding of sky-kissing deodars.

Lake trek: It's to be experienced 

Water trek and other trails

The landscape of the Valley with rolling hills and a network of waterways is ideal for the adventurer. Hiking and trekking paths appear almost magically and frequently as you drive into the countryside. Over the years some trails close to tourist spots have attracted their share of mountaineers, as Khilanmarg, Tangmarg, Drang, Alpather lake (all around Gulmarg) and Thajiwas Glacier, Gangabal Lake (both around Sonamarg). Amongst the newer spots, gaining in popularity is picturesque Yusmarg (47 km via Charar-e-Sharief) where the roaring River Doodh Ganga flows through its scenic meadow ringed by fir and snow-capped hills. Besides offering a lovely riverside locale perfect for old-world picnics and camping, this is the take-off spot for a number of treks, the favourite ones leading to Nilang Lake (4 km) and Sang-e-Safed peak (10 km).

The challenges of a surface trek notwithstanding, if time and budget permit one of the most splendid ways to get a real feel of Kashmir is to opt for a water trek by the shikara. It’s a sensory feast and a feasible two-night/three-day circuit is the Dal Lake-Manasbal Lake-Wular Lake-Nageen Lake round trip. This includes pitching tents by the lakeside at night, waking up under crystal blue skies to cups of kehwa and nun chai served with typical accompaniments as kulcha, tchzot, bakerkhaani (assorted breads), tucking into scrumptious local cuisine, and in essence getting to taste a slice of the slow life away from the world of i-pads and i-pods. If this tour were to be given a grade it would definitely figure in the top-twenty checklist of lifetime experiences.

Road and rail

Coming a close second in the listings of special experiences is a journey by train through the Valley. The railways arrival in 2008 generated widespread thrill and the tracks were made operational in parts over the next two years. With the entire 119-km rail-route now functional, it has given a new dimension to travel in the Valley. As the train chugs through the chinars from Baramulla to Qazigund, connecting north Kashmir with its southern tip in about 3.5 hours, it provides an incredible peek into a never-seen-before lifestyle.

There’s new flavour elsewhere too. Until recently the only road link between Kashmir and Jammu was via the NH 1A. That has changed with the opening of the much-awaited Mughal Road for light vehicular traffic. This centuries old route—traversing mountains over 11,000 ft and apparently preferred by Shah Jahan to reach Kashmir—connects Bafliaz-Poonch in the Jammu region with Shopian in the Valley. It’s a fair weather road and remains inoperative in winters but summers see a rush descend here to experience a drive on a path of history. The inaugural Mughal Road Rally has already set the pace and more voyages should follow.

It’s time for you too to pick your passion and enjoy a season when the Valley adorns colour after months of snow-white. You’ve seen it on reel. The real picture awaits an audience.

Quick facts:

Air: Daily from Delhi & Jammu; Railways: Jammu is the rail head for the region; Road: NH-1A connecting Jammu-Srinagar is an all-weather road. Taxis take around 8-10 hours for the distance. For more info: JKTDC Booking Office (0194-2457930, 2472644)

Published in JetWings, March 2011
http://www.jetairways.com/Uploads/e-Mag/Category/JetWings%20Domestic/March%202011/jetflash_content.html  (Page 59)

And in Srinagar: Frames from the Valley

Kashmiri? Drokpa? Brokpa? Whoever...She's pretty

The faithful at Khanqah-e-Moula

Tete a tete over tea at Dal Lake

On a school picnic at Shalimar Garden 

Looking out for some conversation

Vegetable vendor prepares for the day  

Basket-weaver near Hazratbal shrine 

Puff puff 

A puff here too, and a smile for the lens

Quintessential Srinagar