Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner: In a class by itself

Diwali Chowk

Watermelon sandwich

It's not often the word eclectic gets used for a hotel. Eclectic, though, is the word that often comes to mind at Narendra Bhawan. Tucked away in the quieter side of Bikaner, it's almost like a secret the town has been shy in sharing.

The mixed strains of jazz pleasantly surprise me as I arrive at Narendra Bhawan. This is invigorating piped music, layered with haunting Western and Indian rhythms, and sets the tone for the luxury boutique hotel that is local in essence but global in outlook, quite like the man it's named after and whose erstwhile residence it was, the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singh.                      

Republic Suite in tones of grey and blue

Republic Suite sitting room 

The hotel has a consciously-casual air and immediately draws me with its plush open foyer, the vermillion-toned informal reception and a melange of engrossing elements that make the eyes wander. A red piano in a corner, bookcases packed with dog-eared titles, Playboy editions playing peek-a-boo, arresting globular ceiling lamps, sepia toned family portraits, souvenirs and other vintage bric-a-brac reflect cosy opulence and convey a sense of timelessness. Jharaokhas and jaalis seamlessly blend in with Potuguese mosaic tiles and chevron pattern floors as Rajputana meets Bombay Art Deco style to spectacular effect throughout the property. 

However, this is definitely not just another royal haveli turned into a hotel. It feels like walking into a piece of art lovingly restored and passionately curated with a phenomenal eye for detail.

Wild mushroom tortellini

The five-level, 82-room hotel is a tribute to the charismatic lifestyle of its former owner and an effort has been made to incorporate his personality into the design.The rooms have been designed to mirror different phases of Narendra Singh's life. 

These are categorised as Prince, Residence and India rooms. At the top end is the Republic Suite, which is the one I've been hosted at. 

Gaushala, the lounge

Infinity pool with a view

Chevron floors, Art Deco and more

The hotel is fully occupied so I can't view the much-talked about vibrancy of the other rooms but the suite I'm staying at is very Modernist, all about clean lines, steely blue and concrete grey. It's a decor inspired by architects of independent India who created bold new spaces. I find the suite contemporary and chic. 

Eco-conscious

From the tones of black and pearl in the bath to the steel sailboat on the round dining table, the red mail box on the desk with the Narendra Bhawan crest to the brass box holding glass bottles filled with the local anardana churan goli and bhujia, every accent is well thought out. 

Spaces flow into each other and a terrific illustration is the original terrace being converted into Diwali Chowk, a leafy central courtyard, almost like a restorative oasis, and around it rising anew a three-storey structure comprising rooms, gymnasium as well as a rooftop sit-out and infinity pool offering a bird’s eye view of town.  

 If I have to pick a stand-out design element it will be the optimum utilisation of space. And the winner certainly will be the breezy al fresco lounge quirkily called Gaushala, as that’s what it initially was. It’s positioned right at the very entrance which sees a flow of guests the day through, yet it manages to be intimate and inviting.

Apricot brandy flourless chocolate cake

Narendra Bhawan has planned its menus as meticulously as its design. While the Mad Hatter Cafe serves a variety of confection and savouries, the very Victorian all-day dining, Pearls and Chiffon--the name drawn from the two sartorial favourites of the maharanis--rustles up appetizing fare across the cuisines and serves it in style. 

I get to taste some lesser known regional dishes as angoori sabzi and sautéed aloe vera.  And I must say I’ve not savoured better wild mushroom tortellini, butternut squash soup or watermelon sandwich. Delectable!

As with Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, Manvendra Singh Shekhawat, MD, MRS Group, and his team have yet again developed the Narendra Bhawan property as a destination in itself. If there is a reason to visit Bikaner, this is it.  


Contact: narendrabhawan.com

See also: suryagarh.com

Resort review: Aamod at Shoghi

Have you ever aspired for a little place nestled in the hills? Till you pocket it, check into Aamod at Shoghi for a prelude.    

Picture this: A forest in the hills... the elegant oak racing up to the skies, a burst of shy rhododendrons somewhere in between, a poker straight deodar commanding attention and the ubiquitous pine preening unstoppably. Step on the edge and what greets the eye is a panoramic view of rolling green hills, happy flowers of the untamed kind, a few hamlets yonder, terraced fields tip-toeing up the slopes, lots of squinting blue skies, and oh! the sparkling sound of silence. So capturing are the environs it almost seems someone's pressed the pause button. It's a feeling so typical to the hills. It's a feeling Aamod at Shoghi induces. 

Aamod's USP is its location. On the NH 22, at Shoghi, a few km short of Shimla, and deep inside a reserved forest. Yes, you read that right. It's a lovely woody forest and not a tree was chopped to make place for the cottages which are quirkily placed at varying levels, most of them requiring you to hike and catch a breath as you make your way up towards them. The reason, this is not a place for wobbly-kneed elders or unfit juniors. On the flip side, should you decide to come here you are bound to feel a whole lot agile at the end of your stay. Nature has a way of cajoling you to do the dare and feel triumphant.    

Aamod offers a lot and does so with a large heart. It's got a spry courtyard restaurant right at the entrance which in a way sets the ball rolling. Adjoining it is the dining hall where a live kitchen whips up a range of cuisine. If the way to a guest's heart is through the stomach, Aamod strongly believes in that dictum and pulls out all stops to cater to your whims, even if that means baking a cake at night for your special occasion, which they did for a guest during my stay. The breakfast buffet has quite a choice and at dinner they pleasantly surprised me with guchhi soup. My pick would be its authentic Himachali spread, something you'll rarely find on the menu in these parts. Ever tasted the combination of sweet malpua served with savoury pumpkin? It's a traditional starter in the hills here, which I felt was very gourmet, and a clear winner.   

You're endearingly enveloped by nature at this true-blue eco-resort and you needn't step away for an up close green experience. Should you be in a mood to lazily unwind, you can do just that on a cosy chair outside your cottage. Else you could make your way to the charming machhan-like deck, a perfect spot to coil up with a book or just gaze into the forest and tune into its stillness or the song of the bird. Topping it all, however, is indulgence at the hilltop spa with a view, and its irresistible open-air jacuzzi. 

For those with an adventure bone there are easy trekking trails and hikes in the vicinity, mountain-biking, rock-climbing and rappelling, besides a host of team-building games. I opted for the railway trek which was literally round the corner and provided the thrill of walking along the century-old meter gauge track of the Kalka-Shimla toy train and seeing it whistle past me as it entered the tunnel. Quite fairytale like, that. The trek also gave me an insight into forest wealth besides clear morning views of the hills and its picturesque homes. 

I challenged myself to a bit more off-roading and joined my group on a cycling outing. Not having sat astride a bike in years I thought I'd be all rusted. That was not the case, though, and I covered the 6-km distance quite alright. To be true it was all downhill, thus! The reward at the end of the pedal-pushing was lunch at the Nal Thalak village home of Roshni Devi and Hemanand. It was food prepared with dollops of passion and regard and was delicious in its simplicity. What further sent the tastebuds soaring was the 24-kt liquid gold a.k.a. home-made cow-milk ghee, which Roshni Devi streamed onto our thalis. Fragrant and bursting with flavours, it got most of us asking for repeats.  

My tryst with adventure did not end there. Aamod has a comprehensive in-house 10-obstacle course, which includes flying fox. I would put this down as an absolute must-do. Considering my bulky profile I didn't think I would be able to go past the first rung of the hurdle. The fact that I could do it all and quite effortlessly goes to the credit of the two instructors Ravi and Jeetinder whose faith in their abilities and the equipment inspired confidence.  

All's good at Aamod, however, the cottages, I felt, required a little TLC. They are basic  -- yes, they have comfortable beds, running hot water, electric blanket, room heater, telly, de rigueur tea tray -- but lack a certain snugness associated with a place in the hills. The interiors on the whole are a tad monotonous (Pray tell me, why does one have to view the same set of black and white prints on every wall, be it in the rooms or dining, where in fact one wall has repeats?!). My experience is based on my stay in one section of the family suite. I had the desire to see other cottages to be able to present a fairer view but somehow that did not materialise. That apart, service at Aamod is with a smile, the locally-drawn staff being an enthusiastic lot, which irons out all glitches. 

Quickly: 

What: Eco-resort 

Where: On NH 22, at Shoghi, 13 km short of Shimla 

Tariff: Rs 5,600 onwards  

Resort-o-meter 

Location: 5

Ambience: 4.5

Cottages: 3 

Food: 4 

Activities: 4.5 

The visit was on the invitation of Aamod at Shoghi via Escape Route.

Hotel Review: Park Plaza, Zirakpur

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India Today Travel Plus, Sept 2014

                                                                                  
Other reads at:  http://indiatoday.intoday.in/author/Brinda-Suri/1.html

Hotel Review: The Khyber Himalayan Resort

Spa...licious

White luxury in Gulmarg

Snowflakes playfully twirl outside my window. They seem akin to little artists at work and it’s mesmerising seeing them paint the landscape white. I’m watching this poetry in motion from a room filled with the subtle fragrance of essential oils.

The capable hands of a massage therapist are gently easing the knots in my body. She’s been diligently at work, and the almond firming paste scrub I’ve opted for promises to leave me sparkling. Sparkle or not, I’m immersed in the twin pleasures of spa and snowfall in this wellness wing with a view at a hotel in Gulmarg. It seems surreal.

Has the thought of a stimulating spa therapy amidst snow-clad mountains been your idea of indulgence? Think no further and head to Gulmarg, in the alluring Kashmir valley, to fulfil this cherished desire. What’s more, you can still make a quick dash and return refreshed, for though the summer winds have started heating up the country, here snow is still cladding the hills ice-cream white and regaling visitors.

Many firsts
Of Kashmir it’s said, if you have seen it once you’ve not seen it all. Every season has its own colours. In spring, almond and cherry trees are laden with dainty pink or white flowers, myriad wild blossoms as well as cultivated lavender colour the vistas in summer, and come autumn the chinars begin turning auburn while the saffron fields become lilac. Finally arrives winter and dresses it all in regal white.

That is when Gulmarg too takes on a new hue. The name of the town literally means meadow (or marg from the Persian tern margh) of flowers (gul). Snow erases that meaning, as it softly but scintillatingly goes about its business of texturing the alpine town all white. This is the time skiers descend from around the world to glide down its perfect powder-snow slopes. Tourists also rush in to build the mandatory snowman, excitedly fire snowballs at each other, go snowboarding and enjoy being shoved around on sledges or speeding on snow-scooters. I’m doing neither. Rejuvenation is my only agenda.

Snow and more 

It’s still snowing when I walk out from the spa, the almond scrub having worked its magic on me. I plan to soak in the outside from the warm interiors of the aesthetically-designed chaikash, the tea lounge, and settle myself near the window with a steaming hot cup of fragrant kahwa. Other guests have the same idea and soon there is quite a crowd in raptures over what they are witnessing. Enthusiasm at viewing a fairy-tale setting prompts comparisons with foreign locales and conversation gets peppered with star destinations from around the world.

All that comes to a hush when a foreign traveller, who’s returned from a successful ski outing, zealously announces, “Gulmarg is incomparable!” Everyone tunes into his ode to the town and they feel quite pleased on being at the right place at the right time. Some guests corroborate what he says about the region’s beauty with their own stunning experiences of visiting Mt Apharwat Peak (13,780 ft) that’s connected to Gulmarg via the Gondola or cable car, which reportedly is the highest and longest in Asia.

The cable car is one of the biggest attractions of Gulmarg and tourists have the option of taking a ride up to the first stage, Kongdoori, or going further — almost up above the world — to Apharwat, the second and final level. Apart from the breathtaking views at the summit, it’s known for the 1.5-km trek to the frozen Alpather Lake, something that’s for the adventurous alone.

I’m charmed by Gulmarg. It’s small and beautiful. And complete. It has always been recognised as the winter capital of India. In summers, it’s a golfing haven with its century-old golf club boasting of the longest course in the country. Its newest attribute, the all-weather spa, has ensured it’s become a wellness destination too.

Factfile:

Getting here: Daily flights from all metros to Srinagar (65 km/2 hrs from Gulmarg)  

Stay: The Khyber (www.khyberhotels.com)

Activities: Ride in the cable car, hiking, golf 

Must eat/drink: Kehwa, Gushtaba (meat balls in curd curry), haak (aromatic local spinach)

Published in Deccan Herald

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/404045/archives.php

Hotel Review: JW Marriott, Chandigarh

I step into a pleasant lobby, wonderfully radiant with natural light streaming in through large windows. The high ceiling catches my attention instantly as does the informal seating arrangement. A quirky metal sculpture dresses up the main wall and a 3D painting in amber hues adds cheer behind the front desk. I find an aesthetic flow between spaces with the lobby seamlessly merging into the lounge and deli-patisserie. It’s chic, it’s contemporary and until JW Marriott arrived here a year back this is the international experience Chandigarh was missing.  

The open layout creates a welcoming ambience. That's besides the chilled shikanjavi I'm served in a kulad as a welcome drink! There's something invigorating about this homegrown earthenware, especially on a hot summer day, and it’s one of the many illustrations of the brand’s concept to let current and classical (Indian) run hand in hand on the property. 

Design

JW Marriott belongs to Marriott International’s luxury portfolio. In keeping with its worldwide theme of sophisticated indulgence for the self-assured traveller, subtle grandeur greets the eye at every turn. That apart, the notion of incorporating a local element is clearly visible: Chandigarh’s Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s linear-layout outlook and his classic bronze plaque replicas judiciously blend into the interior design.  

There’s enough space for all reasons, with the property boasting of the city’s largest banquet-conference facilities. This includes its distinctive ‘Living Room’; casual, modish, and meant for small meetings, it’s based on the model of NY apartments with open kitchen, lounge and foyer.  

The hotel makes up for its lack of offering picturesque sights — and this is a very green city — by concentrating on its interiors and creating a soothing effect wherever possible. Towards the rear of the lobby the outdoor seating by a water body is a perfect example. One of the loveliest spots is the roof-top swimming pool and deck, which allows an aerial view of the vicinity that’s particularly appealing around the evening.

Rooms

The 164-room property includes four luxury and one splendid presidential suite. I had checked-in on the executive level and my room like all others was styled in marble-wood and its large dimensions packed in state-of-the-art conveniences. Surprisingly, though, furnishing appeared tad jaded for a year-old star property. Some design issues, as the oddly-placed en suite bathroom door lock, also needed correction. I was assured these niggles were being rectified.   The nice part about staying on the sixth floor was the access to the tasteful executive lounge. Elsewhere, among other indulgences, I thought the telly above the bath-tub in the luxury suite spelt utter relaxation.    

 

Spa 

For other ways of rejuvenation, there was the signature Quan Spa. Refreshingly minimal in decor, it was an oasis of tranquillity. Therapies here were a mix of massages, scrubs, and facials, using aroma oils, fruit and marine extracts. Merely reading the menu was a stress-buster and once I'd been through the unusual Aquarelle Face Treatment that uses live cells of algae, I felt wholly revitalised. Interestingly, Quan means ‘spring water’, and therapies are designed to extract its restorative qualities.

Cuisine

If way to a guest's heart is through the stomach, the Mezzanine is where unlimited flavours converge to do precisely that. There's a trio of restaurants here: The Cafe @JW, an all-day dining popular for its sumptuous buffets and Asian cuisine; Saffron, the classy Indian fine-dining; and Oregano, the trattoria-style Italian restaurant and bar. There’s also Whisky 111, an exclusive bar offering a selection of the finest single malts and vintages. Culinary operations are lead by executive chef Pallav Singhal, whose enthusiasm ensures menus are always sparkling with something new.

A ravioli promotion was on and I chose to dine at the friendly Oregano. Over a watermelon refresher, basket of appetising Italian breads and robust antipasti, Chef Singhal steered conversation. As we spoke ceaselessly on, well, gastronomy, expat chef Antonello Cancedda presented an attractive gourmet spread. The delicately-balanced Pumpkin Ravioli with amaretti-butter-sage whet the taste-buds to be followed by equally-flavoursome Asparagus-potato ravioli with white truffle oil and Openface ravioli with smoked chicken- thyme- Mascarpone cheese. With breads and pasta being prepared fresh this truly was a slice of authentic Italian away from Italy. So fulfilling was it that the main course was skipped but certainly not the dolci or dessert options of Panna-cotta alla grappa and Tiramisu tradizionale. An outstanding affogato rounded-off a scrumptiously-Marriott experience. 

  

At a glance

WHAT: Five star property 

WHERE: Sector 35B, Chandigarh 160035 

www.marriott.com Tele: 0172-3955555

COST: Begins at Rs 15,000 (rack rate) 

VERDICT: Business-luxury hotel very centrally located

Published: ITTP, 2012

For ore stories: http://indiatoday.intoday.in/author/Brinda-Suri/1.html

Hotel Review: Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

It's a resort... It's a fort... It's Suryagarh. Standing in solitary splendour amidst infinite stretches of soothing beige, the luxury boutique hotel arrested attention from a distance. 

Its elevation and sprawling scale had made it amply visible and the quietude around--it's 15 km beyond Jaisalmer--heightened its imposing presence. As I entered its grand portals I felt it was a worthy tribute to Rajputana heritage. 

The design 
Built in local sandstone and that lovely honey-mustard hue limestone, or colloquially Jaisalmer stone, within its fort look-alike contours the whimsical romance of palaces came alive. Almost immediately I was greeted by fountains and sweeping courtyards, jaalis (lattice screens) and jharokhas (jutting windows), spanking mosaic floors and carved pillars, bastions and battlements, and the piece de resistance, an ingeniously-designed baoli or step-well. 

In the colonnaded corridors around the central patio and in the lobbies traditional artefacts in metal and wood--a lot of these rescued from crumbling havelis--provided a nice casual touch. 

The names of spaces were as impressive as their aesthetic interiors. The spa was just so aptly called 'Rait', 'Draksh' was the bar, 'Neel' the indoor swimming pool in calming turquoise shades, and 'Akhara' the gym, which niftily had hanging lights designed as mudgals (wrestling clubs). 

Over conversation with the young proprietor Manvendra Singh Shekhawat what shone through was his entrepreneurial vision, spirit of conservation, and the zeal to research and execute, even if that meant rolling up his sleeves to achieve a target, or aborting an implemented original plan. "This was intended as a passageway, but by happy accident it's The Legend of Marwar," he explained, referring to the fine dining restaurant in vermillion tones. 

The rooms
Suryagarh has 62 tastefully appointed rooms and suites. Lavish upholstery, smart woodwork, luxurious bathrooms, and a window view of either the gardens or the terraces are consistent elements across all categories. The leitmotif lattice work displays bits of itself in the rooms, the most prominent being wooden screens and metal lampshades. 

All rooms pamper a guest, with the top-end Jaisalmer Suite being indulgence in the true sense. Dressed in radiant Jaisalmer stone and embellished with vibrant local textures, it comes with a private terrace and personal splash pool overlooking the desert landscape, besides the services of a dedicated butler. I had checked into the Luxury Suite and took pleasure in its generosity of space and features that included a powder-room and a cosy dining alcove. 

The bathroom, I was glad to note, had elegant, easy-to-operate fittings and not state-of-the-art ones that leave you feeling clueless and dim-witted. I preferred the rain shower cubicle over the tub and its frills. Just the thought of rain and desert was tempting enough to opt for it. The one disappointment was the towels: considering this was a boutique experience I would have liked them fluffier and fragrant. 

The food 
One of the best cheese omelettes I've tasted was at Nosh, the coffee shop. I wouldn't be able to say the same about other breakfast options, especially the Indian selection, which I felt needed fine-tuning. An oily Aloo Parantha is a definite no-no. I found the Oriental dishes too not up to the mark with a medley of sauces overpowering flavours. But where the chef scored was in the Marwar Thali. 

Not only was its presentation attractive, each item on the menu, from Kair-Sangri, Gatta, Papad Sabzi to the ubiquitous Dal-Baati-Churma was flavoursome and flawless. My advice: to savour the thali, build up an appetite. Another pick for me was the chef special: Mushroom Cappuccino, a delectable soup, served with basil-honey crostini and roast pepper salad. 

The outdoors
Suryagarh is as much about its indoors as it's about the outdoors. During the day, I found its porches and terraces with inviting sun-umbrellas and comfortably padded sarkanda chairs, perfect spots to uncoil. As the sun dipped and the lights began twinkling Suryagarh basked in a fantastical mellow afterglow. 

If the daytime demanded bringing out the glares, the cool evenings summoned sitting under starlit skies. And what better place than the baoli that transformed into a stage for performing arts: dance, music, magic-show, martial arts and puppetry. 

The hotel also arranges outings to the small Lakhmana dunes, relatively quiet when compared to the touristy Sam dunes. Here a sunset camel ride is followed by high tea or dinner on the dunes in an especially set-up airy pavilion. 

There are few hotels that are destinations in themselves. Suryagarh is one of these. 

At a glance What: A luxury boutique hotel.  Where: Kahala Phata, Sam Road, Jaisalmer. Tel: (02992) 269269; www.suryagarh.com Cost: Rs. 16,000 per night for the base category room.  Verdict: A spectacular and tranquil boutique hotel that is a destination in itself. Published in India Today Travel Plus,  April 2012  See also: narendrabhawan.com

Bandhavgarh: In the eye of the tiger

For the standard tourist, spotting a tiger in its natural habitat at a protected reserve requires no special skill. It’s the combination of a competent guide and an attentive driver that performs the required task of picking up signals and alerting. What a visitor definitely needs is loads of luck for that chance rendezvous; else there’s always the next best option of intently gazing at ‘fresh’ pugmarks and furiously capturing it through the lens for a boast back home.

Lady Luck and I have never been the best of mates, especially so when it comes to tiger sighting. All my attempts at various ecospheres dotting the country have drawn a blank.  Until recently, when the fickle maiden finally decided to roll the fortune dice in my favour, not once but twice in succession, at the inviting jungle of Bandhavgarh, eastern Madhya Pradesh.

The Bandhavgarh National Park, once the hunting preserve of the erstwhile royals of Rewa, is a relatively small habitat appearing almost custom-made, consisting of a 105 sq km core area and a buffer zone of 448 sq km. The advantage lies in its diverse topography ranging from steep ridges, plunging valleys, flat meadows and marshes, all centered around a knoll rising up to about 800 m. This assures an assortment of foliage — including the much-worshipped Mahua tree whose springtime blossoms are fermented to produce a heady brew, the elixir of life for many a soul — and secluded watering-holes, both features best suited for fauna, making the park an attractive biosphere offering a fair chance of sightings.

The evening safari at Bandhavgarh is a three-hour affair (3 pm-6 pm) and our initial forays yielded the usual four-legged. An interesting fact I learnt during the drive was the deer-primate friendship, with the latter—primarily langur/monkey at this park—helping in gathering food for the kin of deer, who in turn warn during times of danger.

For about two hours we mapped our given route drinking in the views, trying to decipher jungle calls, and listening to the few nuggets the guide rolled out, even as he kept his ears and eyes open for an indicator on the all-elusive one. Mission Tiger almost seemed to be drawing to a close till a passing jeep mentioned a sighting on another path. And that’s when the chase began.

Ajju, the young driver of our Gypsy, swung into action, literally. The 20 km speed limit in the jungle zone was forgotten as he morphed into Schumacher, throwing all caution to the winds in his race against time. En route, bystanders as the spotted deer, sambhar, neelgai, langur…star attractions up till now, were reduced to nonentities. The King’s arrival had been announced and everything else was a blur. As we approached Chua, the spot the tiger was to make an appearance, we were greeted by a swarm of already-stationed jeeps that frantically gestured us to halt in our tracks. They had caught a glimpse of the tiger approaching and no one wanted that precious chance ruined.  Silence ruled as the crowd awaited the arrival. Seconds ticked by and no movement was heard. And then in a flash emerged B2, the current ageing monarch of these jungles! He nonchalantly walked passed the jeeps, almost at touching distance, least bothered by the rush of flashing cameras or the excited squeals of children. This was his kingdom and he was gracious with us outsiders. B2 crossed the path in less than 15 seconds before disappearing into a bamboo thicket but that was enough to have the crowd agog. They had witnessed a moment that would be long spoken-off. It was my first sighting of an untamed tiger and it took a while to sink in.  

On Day Two we were inside the park by 6 am. November onwards, mornings are considered a fine time for tiger sighting, as the soft paws of the big cats try avoiding the dew, preferring to walk on mud tracks where jeeps ply. We had barely manoeuvred a few bends when sharp warning calls of the langur began booming. The guide immediately directed the driver to change track and move towards Barua Nullah. He was spot on, for we arrived within minutes to find a striped beauty blocking our path. Oh! She was gorgeous.  Young and intense, there was a sort of determination writ across her face. In comparison, seeing the aged B2 yesterday had been a tame, zoo-like episode. We both stood still for a while before she made the first move. Her actions had guide Manjeet Singh exclaiming. “You are fortunate to see this tigress. She is Bhitari, who’s new to the area and is marking territory,” he said, eagerly explaining her moves, as she spray marked and clawed a tree trunk. 
                                          
Then suddenly she changed her path and began approaching us. Ours was the only jeep in front of her and seeing the majestic advance was quite an up-close feeling. Meanwhile, word had got around in the park and soon there was a pile of vehicles at her rear too. All of us feverishly clicked on our cameras. After a few moments, though, I had the urge of tossing my SLR. I felt we were akin to paparazzi hounding a femme fatale. I wanted to watch her intently, but not through the viewfinder. However, the temptation to capture the instant for posterity was too irresistible and the camera stayed on. Her walk towards us was electrifying and I couldn’t divert my gaze from those glowing green eyes. But as she got still closer to our jeep the guide became chary. “Reverse!” he yelled to the driver. “She’s hungry and angry. This can turn ugly.” We slumped onto our seats, with some among us getting visions of a tiger springing forth! Driver Uttam was a master behind the wheel and just as the tigress came within sniffing distance he swiftly drove off. We watched her from a securer position till she faded out of sight, her gait unflustered and regal, so befitting her stature. It was sheer providence that she chose to tread the route we were on, providing an experience to treasure.        

Moments such as these get further stimulating when interacting with persons dedicated to conservation of fauna and its habitat. My opting for accommodation at King’s Lodge — a tasteful eco-friendly property from the stable of Pugdundee Safaris, which also offers the widely-acclaimed Tree House Hideaway in the vicinity — ensured I tuned into absorbing discussions on  tigers, trackers, poachers and more. The force behind the Pugdundee group is founder Shyamendra Singh, an engrossing raconteur of tiger tales, who’s been joined in his passion for providing guests a holistic experience in the wild by naturalist Karan Rana and Manav Khanduja. Their properties speak for themselves: no tree has been felled for construction; the wild grass landscape has been left untouched ensuring a sense of true living in the jungle; and most material used to dress the snug cottages and lounges is in its natural form, particularly arresting being the ingenious use of redundant railway rafters as mirror and windowpane frames.    

The cornerstone of my entire experience was one entity: the tiger. It’s a shame that its tribe is under attack from members of our tribe. Word on conservation needs to spread fast and wide. Chennai-based film-maker Shekar Dattatri is one such individual with an aim to doing precisely that. His recent film The Truth about Tigers is a work of commitment and should be viewed by all. Log on to www.truthabouttigers.org to know more on what you can do. As Shekar questions: If we cannot save our national animal, what can we save? 

Quick facts:

Air: The closest airport is at Jabalpur (164 km/2.5 hrs).
Railways: The nearest railheads are Umaria (31 km/35 min) and Katni (102 km/2hrs), which has better connectivity. Convenient trains from Delhi (boarding at Hzn Nizamuddin) include MP Sampark Kranti and Gondwana Express. From Chennai Sangha Mitra Express is an option.  

Best time: The park opens from mid-October to mid-June. Mid-November onwards is good weather for sightings, barring the fortnight-plus of intense cold beginning around end-December. The harsh summers, though, offer the finest chances of fauna spotting.
Accommodation: King’s Lodge or Tree House Hideaway 

www.pugdundeesafaris.com

0124-4222657-59, 09810253436 

Published in The New Indian Express, November 2010

Bandhavgarh: Some pix of King's Lodge (click on image to view larger size) 

 

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