Bhopali batua

Double click to enlarge and read or 

right click/long touch and select open link in new tab

Indian folk art: Bhil

Bhil art is possibly the oldest form of tribal expression in India. On the contemporary art scene, though, it's been a late starter, having been overshadowed by other forms which, perhaps, got promoted better. Renowned Bhil artists like Bhuri Devi were discovered a few decades ago but despite them being hailed by aficionados internationally, their popularity was restricted to a small audience. The reason the art remains delightfully folkish even as it now begins enjoying the spotlight.

For the record

To an untrained eye Bhil can be confused for Gond, both art forms using near-similar metaphor. But look a little keenly — you don’t need to peer too hard — and you'll realise the marked differences between the two figurative styles.  

With the sort of urban exposure it's received, Gond has refined itself. What’s clearly visible at first glance are the contours in Gond paintings, which are very well defined. For instance, if the paws of a cat are to be shown, these will resemble the actual shape. In a Bhil painting, on the other hand, they will be just an impression.

In-filling the motif is a very prominent aspect of both forms. Bhils use only dots in all colours and these can be scattered or drawn in neat formation, almost similar to aborigine art. In contrast each Gond artist has evolved a signature filling pattern — dot, dash, round etc — and these are almost-always in the colour black. Furthermore, the art of the Gonds is usually proportionate while the Bhils have an unrestrictive, almost naïve, style.

Continental connection

To read more
right click on image 

“Bhil, Gond, Rathwa are tribes found in the neighbourhood of western Madhya Pradesh and Eastern Gujarat. Their culture and customs have similar basis which gets reflected in the paintings of each of these communities. It's the approach that differs,” says Mamta Sharma, senior manager, Tribal Cooperative Marketing Development Federation of India Limited (Trifed), Ministry of Tribal Affairs. "Quite intriguingly, the similarity of form found in these tribal paintings is noticeable in aboriginal art too. A few seasons back we had held an exhibition of Gond and aborigine art from Australia; it was hard to tell them apart," she avers, bringing the focus back once again to the ongoing debate on how best to explain the parallel connection between two art forms indigenous to two separate continents. Throwing light on this a recent anthropological research suggests that during the great migration particular genetic groups reached Australia via the Gond region in India. It is probable these groups picked up the art form here and took it with them to where they finally settled and developed it into what's today known as aborigine art.

Published in Deccan Herald, Oct 2014 

Bandhavgarh: Forest Trump

It was a balmy winter afternoon — sunny blue skies, a slight nip and air filled with birdsong, just perfect for the lovely picnic lunch we were relishing at the gloriously-leafy Bandhavadheesh Temple grounds inside the ruins of the Bandhavgarh Fort. We had trekked up here and the tranquility around the temple's lime-washed structure and lush environs called for a breather.

We were busy tucking into our sandwiches when a langur call pierced the calm. Questioningly we looked towards our guide who nonchalantly said, "Were it a tiger the call would have had urgency." On cue the temple priest remarked, "A tigress had come by yesterday. She was marking territory. She may be around." Silence descended over our group. The sandwiches suddenly lost taste. It took the chirpiest among us to voice concern. “If a tiger does turn up what we do," she innocently questioned. The guide casually said, "Nothing. What can you do in front of a tiger?" Our friend was alarmed. "I'm newly married! I have to get home! Do we have to trek down a path with the threat of a tiger looming large?" We tried suppressing our grins, but the guide couldn’t, as he declared, “Legend says if you offer prayers at this  temple, a tiger never attacks." Faith has its ways of being restorative. Our friend was convinced. She quickly ran to appease the gods a second time and returned with a big smile back on her pretty face. 

There are not too many tiger reserves where mythology, history, wildlife and the joys of picnicking sumptuously blend. It's this unusual combination that makes Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh such a treat to explore. 

Legends and lore

A spectacular blend of the Vindhya hills, deciduous forest, an enchanting valley meadow and a dominating plateau, this park provides one of the most well-preserved environment for tigers. Bandhavgarh has its sets of legends too. There are legends of gods and chieftains from times ancient. The legends of Medieval kings and poets. And of course the contemporary legends of Sita, Charger and their son B2... tigers who ruled these grasslands as only regal monarchs can. Each being as engrossing as only legends can.  

The story goes, the fort atop the plateau was built by Lord Rama for younger brother Lakshman with an aim of keeping vigil over Lanka. Yes, Rama's Lanka was supposed to be somewhere in Central India, so believe several history-keepers. As the fort was meant for a brother, it simply began being known such; bandhav, or bandhu as it was called earlier, referring to brother and garh meaning fort. The Bandhavadheesh Temple, where we were receiving these lessons in history, was dedicated to the worship of the reigning deity of these jungles: Lord Lakshman and the name Bandhavgarh has stayed since.

Though no specific history of Bandhavgarh Fort is available, it's assumed to be over 2,500 years old and had remained a stronghold during miscellaneous dynastic rules. Its recorded evidence dates to the 13th century when Baghela Rajputs, hailing from present-day Gujarat region, made Bandhavgarh their focus and controlled territory from the fort. That was until 1617 AD when the Baghela king moved his capital to the more-central Rewa. The fort lay abandoned for close to a century aiding in the escalation of flora-fauna around Bandhavgarh. Its tiger population grew impressively which attracted successive Baghelas, known by then as the Maharajas of Rewa, to make it their hunting preserve. It remained such till 1968 AD when it was declared a national park.

Sonnets in stone

Each of these dynasties left their imprint in stone and during our trek of Bandhavgarh Fort we walked amid striking reminders of a remarkable past. Of the colossal rock-cut sculptures — most considered 10th century art — the 18 ft high Narasimha was awe-inspiring while Sheshshaiya or Lord Vishnu reclining on a seven-hooded serpent was overwhelming. There was the friendly-looking Kachchap, a rock-cut turtle, said to be the largest of its kind in the country. A lot of other sculptures lay carelessly in the open, which in some way added to their attraction.

During the Baghela rule the 16th century poet-saint Kabir is thought to have meditated for several years at Bandhavgarh Fort and there was a temple, lake and cave dedicated to him. There were a number of lakes around the fort which translated into watering holes and as we tread the area the guide pointed to markings of various fauna. A set of pugmarks got us excited and we hoped for an adventurous sighting. That, though, was to happen later.  

The tiger trail
It’s said you’re lucky if you spot the striped beauties in other parks and really unlucky if you don’t spot it in Bandhavgarh! That evening Lady Luck was our pal.

In the initial phase of our three-hour evening safari we relished verdant views picturesquely backlit by a setting sun and tried decoding jungle calls. At times the green kingdom’s amiable inhabitants — langur, neelgai, sambhar — would allow a photo-op but The King himself remained elusive. Time was almost running out, when a passing jeep mentioned a sighting.

Our driver turned the vehicle around and raced. This was the moment we were here for. The environs were a blur as we flew to the designated spot, where a crowd of jeeps had already collected. An anticipatory silence followed. Seconds were ticking by slowly and heart-beats were rapid. Will we? Won’t we?

Suddenly there was a rustle and in a flash emerged B2, then the ageing monarch of these jungles. Cameras clicked and visitors exclaimed but unflustered by it all B2 ambled past our jeeps, almost at arm’s length. He was a King in control. He was majestic! A few seconds is all we got to savour before he vanished into the jungle but he had awarded us an experience of a life-time.

It was my first sighting of an untamed tiger and it will always be cherished. More so, as B2 passed away a few months later (in November 2011). And a nation grieved. Such was his charisma. His legend, though, lives on like many more in Bandhavgarh.

Published in TimeOut Explorer, Jan-Feb 2013 issue

Kanker, Chitrakoot etc: Far from the touristy crowd

All yours: Boating at the magnificent Chitrakoot Falls in Bastar, Chhattisgarh.
 Photos by author

A choice of  off-beat, off-season destinations that spare you the scramble for ticket and hotel bookings. 

You’ve woken up to the thought of a family holiday a tad late. But by this time, perennial winter favourites Goa, Rajasthan, and Kerala are all packed to capacity. Don’t fret, there’s hope. Here are some offbeat, off-season destinations where you can still hope to get hotel bookings (the heritage/ luxury resorts suggested are destinations in themselves) and relatively cheap air-tickets.

Just think beyond the usual and you could find yourself amidst experiences you’ll cherish a lifetime.

ALMORA, UTTARAKHAND

This is a popular summer destination, but if you can bear the cold a bit, this place in the lap of the Himalayas will enamour you. At this time of the year, the Nanda Devi, Trishul and Panchali peaks surrounding this town of the Kumaon hills are splendidly clear, and it’s a joy to do nothing more than enjoy their majestic sight. An overnight train from Delhi will get you there early morning, letting you make good use of the day.

The activity line-up includes a trip to the Binsar wildlife sanctuary, walks to Kumaoni villages with their well-preserved architectural heritage, treks through lovely cedar forests, and bird-spotting. If all this sounds like too much work, you can just curl up on a hammock and read, laze, and sun till the bonfires are lit.

Stay: Kalmatia Sangam (www.kalmatia-sangam.com)

ALIPURA, MADHYA PRADESH

Alipura quite really is the heart of Bundelkhand. Once a bustling dominion established in 1757 AD, it is now a quiet hamlet in Chhatarpur district. This is ideal if you are looking to spend a heritage holiday in a non-touristy place, and highly recommended if you want a genuine rural experience away from hawkers and pollution. Situated midway on NH 75, which connects Jhansi/ Orchha with Khajuraho/ Panna National Park, it is worth reshuffling your itinerary to include a visit here, more so if you don’t want to spend an entire day travelling on the highway.

Besides offering a break, Alipura allows you to explore Bundelkhand’s past. An alternative is to extend your trip to include the splendid Bandhavgarh National Park, which is connected via an overnight train to Katni/ Umaria from Harpalpur, 15 km from here.

Stay: Alipura Palace (www.alipurapalace.com)

KANKER, CHHATTISGARH

Kanker is the gateway to Bastar, a land still refreshingly original and very welcoming, despite reports of turmoil tumbling out of its frontiers. The NH 43 running via Kanker is the State’s lifeline, linking capital Raipur with the southern district of Bastar. A stay at Kanker will allow you to visit tribal settlements, attend atmospheric village haats (see pix), go trekking in tropical forests, and visit wildlife parks. An added attraction is a stay at the Kanker Palace, which will delight you with old-world features, such as the cloth ceiling fan that’s still in usable condition. A day-trip to the spectacular Chitrakoot Waterfall and boating in its waters should be another gem.

Stay: Kanker Palace (www.kankerpalace.com)

NALDEHRA, HIMACHAL PRADESH

Naldehra is well preserved and abounds in natural splendour. Pleasant hikes, mountain air, mist outside the window, and a crackling log-fire when the sun sets are some of the reasons to be here when the temperature dips. Pine and deodar trees frame this hamlet, famous for the country’s oldest nine-hole golf course designed by Lord Curzon. Naldehra is literally in Shimla’s backyard (22 km/ 35 minutes away), but away from the capital’s congestion and tourist traps, which allows you to explore its fading yet classic beauty at your convenience.

Stay: The Chalets Naldehra (www.chaletsnaldehra.com)

RAMPURA, UTTAR PRADESH

In an idyllic milieu and far from the madding crowds, Rampura allows a peep into Bundelkhand besides showing off the decadent grandeur of its out-of-a-fairytale fort. Its drawing power is its location at the edge of the infamous Chambal ravines, offering a scrumptious platter for those with an interest in history. In its vicinity are a number of forts, some crumbling, at Gopalpura, Tiher, Jagmanpur, Saravan, Sewnda, Machand, Lahar and Kalpi. Rampura lies off the Kanpur-Agra route, and can be a perfect stopover on a road journey from Lucknow to Orchha or Gwalior.

Stay: Fort Rampura (www.fortrampura.com)

Published in The Hindu Business Line, Dec 2012  

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/far-from-the-touristy-crowd/article4218004.ece

Orchha

Tucked away in the recesses of my mind is an enduring image about Orchha, that lovely medieval hamlet by River Betwa in Madhya Pradesh. It’s often recalled, often spoken-off but never forgotten. And no, it’s not about the town’s renowned monuments, though they do play a guest role, it’s about people, a band of pilgrims to be precise. 

This group from Tikamgarh, about 85 km away, was passing through Orchha en route Rajasthan. They had arrived around dawn and were energetically going about their morning business: laundry, bathing, grooming in and around the river waters. When I sauntered to the Betwa riverside a little after daybreak I was treated to that unforgettable view. Their laundry — bright sarees, white dhotis and kurtas — were spread out on the many boulders in the river, making a vibrant foreground to the serene backdrop of chhatris (cenotaphs) on the opposite riverbank. It was a charmingly-quintessential rustic India spectacle but what added to its aura was my interaction with this merry group.    

The weather was cold and this was an elderly gang traversing the terrain on foot and spending nights under the cover of stars. It would take them days to reach their destination but nothing was a deterrent. All they carried as part of their belongings for the month-long tour was, well, the forerunner of today’s backpack, the humble jhola, filled with literally two pieces of clothing, some of which I had seen adding colour to the Betwa’s shores. One of the persons had a traditional drum that was placed on the feet and played and another a manjira (pair of cymbals); these instruments being required for impromptu bhajan sessions of the kind I witnessed when they had spruced themselves and were ready for departure. This leisurely pack, I felt, was the classic Indian traveller, who had been on the go for centuries, his tote full of experiences, save we urban cookies had forgotten he existed long-long before we began hitting the trails. Orchha acquainted me with an engaging sliver of invisible India, the reason it stays a top-of-the-line travel experience.

Now a palm-sized hamlet, Orchha was once a seat of power. Established by Bundela rajput chief Rudra Pratap Singh in 1501 AD, dynastic rule continued in the kingdom until the privy purse was introduced following India’s independence. With its rulers being patrons of art, today’s Orchha is a proud keeper of their legacy and is celebrated for its attractive collection of 16th -17th century edifice, considered glorious illustrations of Bundelkhand architectural heritage. Each is further wrapped in a delightful legend; and with tour guides adding their bit of rehearsed drama to history, walking the dusty lanes of Orchha feels akin to going back in time.

The most imposing of Orchha’s structures is the Jahangir Mahal built by Raja Bir Singh Deo. A seven-level construction, it’s a fetching mix of Indo-Islamic design, with jharokhas (jutting windows), chhatris (domed pavilions), chajjas (eaves) and jalis (lattice) dominating the play in the sandstone. Perceptibly, distinct Chinese elements are part of the relief design, as the chrysanthemum flower or the pagoda style sloping roof of a few chhatris. This, my guide informed, was on account of trade with China and was inspired by elaborate brocade patterns royalty wore. I could not authenticate that part of the information but it surely added a degree of romance while viewing stone and mortar of a bygone era. Constructed to commemorate the visit of Mughal emperor Jahangir (then still known as Prince Salim) to Orchha, it’s still in relatively good shape and a trek to its top-most level provides a beautiful view of the idyllic town. 

The mahal is part of the Orchha Fort complex that includes the Raj Mahal, where frescoes—Diwan-i-Khaas has Persian carpet-like motifs—are not to be missed, and the Rai Parveen Mahal a bit downhill, that was built by Raja Indramani (1672-76 AD), for his eponymous consort, who quite typically was a court singer-dancer, poetess and a stunning beauty. Her two-storey palace, amidst the gardens of Anand Bagh, is unfortunately often skipped by visitors owing to its tad-tedious access. But a visit here does bring alive her love legend and I could almost hear the melodic sound of ghunghroos as I viewed Rai Praveen’s dancing portraits painted on the lime plaster walls. Yes, my experience was courtesy the tour guide who indeed had an overflowing bank of fascinating tales. one of these being her subtle rejection of Emperor Akbar via a couplet.

While on myths, there’s an intriguing one about Orchha’s Ram Raja Temple, said to be the only temple in the country where Lord Rama is worshiped as monarch. Legend says, the wife of Maharaja Madhukarshah (1554 –1592 AD), Maharani Ganesh Kunwar, an ardent devotee of Lord Rama, was returning from Ayodhya with his idols which were to be installed in an especially-built shrine (now called Chaturbhuj Temple). Legend says, Lord Rama had agreed to come on a few conditions these being, he would rule Orchha and secondly his idol would remain where it was placed initially. As the maharani had retuned to the kingdom late at night she naively kept the idols in her palace with the idea of moving them to the new temple’s sanctum-sanatorium the next morning. At sunrise when she tried lifting the idols they wouldn’t move... and ever since the palace became Lord Rama’s temple and the shrine built for him, later down the years, turned into a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his Chaturbhuj (or four arm) form.  

The Chaturbhuj Temple is rather striking and I felt it was similar to visiting a basilica. Almost every aspect of its design —vaulted roof, massive doors and large corridor— reinforced the notion. Another impressive edifice was a short distance away from town centre, about 1 km that is; remember Orchha is tiny! It was the Lakshmi Narayan Temple which I found was a mix of quirky architecture and remarkable Bundeli style painting on walls and ceilings. There were also some valuable depictions of the 1857 mutiny.

These and a few other small structures — as the Phool Bagh that has the unique Sawan-Bhadon towers, which are wind catchers, a concept that arrived here from Iran — are key tributes in stone that Orchha offers. But what I found most charming were its 14 chhatris or cenotaphs to Orchha rulers, all grouped along the Kanchana Ghat of River Betwa. This is where I would return often to treat myself to myriad bucolic frames, one of these being the merry band of pilgrims, which was to leave me mesmerized.

Orchha’s small market square is a bustling place, very backpacker like and sometimes very noisy, till quite late at night. Its shops largely sell souvenirs and brass collectables, both nouveau and genuine antiques, which had me browsing through quite often for a bargain. Most eateries, serving Indian choices as aloo-puri, are around Ram Mandir. These are interspersed with handful modest cafes serving surprisingly sparkling European fare.

Orchha means ‘hidden place’. Truly, this little gem   hides plenty of surprises. One of these being rafting (see below). Go discover some on your own and return enthralled.  

  

RAFTING

MP Tourism (07680-252618) organises two river rafting safaris (up to six persons per raft). Beginning from the scenic Kanchana Ghat, the 90-min package (3.5 km/ Rs 1,200) includes refreshments, while the 3-hr package (6 km/ Rs 2,000) includes breakfast or lunch.

Published in TimeOut Explorer, Sept-Nov 2012  

Bandhavgarh: In the eye of the tiger

For the standard tourist, spotting a tiger in its natural habitat at a protected reserve requires no special skill. It’s the combination of a competent guide and an attentive driver that performs the required task of picking up signals and alerting. What a visitor definitely needs is loads of luck for that chance rendezvous; else there’s always the next best option of intently gazing at ‘fresh’ pugmarks and furiously capturing it through the lens for a boast back home.

Lady Luck and I have never been the best of mates, especially so when it comes to tiger sighting. All my attempts at various ecospheres dotting the country have drawn a blank.  Until recently, when the fickle maiden finally decided to roll the fortune dice in my favour, not once but twice in succession, at the inviting jungle of Bandhavgarh, eastern Madhya Pradesh.

The Bandhavgarh National Park, once the hunting preserve of the erstwhile royals of Rewa, is a relatively small habitat appearing almost custom-made, consisting of a 105 sq km core area and a buffer zone of 448 sq km. The advantage lies in its diverse topography ranging from steep ridges, plunging valleys, flat meadows and marshes, all centered around a knoll rising up to about 800 m. This assures an assortment of foliage — including the much-worshipped Mahua tree whose springtime blossoms are fermented to produce a heady brew, the elixir of life for many a soul — and secluded watering-holes, both features best suited for fauna, making the park an attractive biosphere offering a fair chance of sightings.

The evening safari at Bandhavgarh is a three-hour affair (3 pm-6 pm) and our initial forays yielded the usual four-legged. An interesting fact I learnt during the drive was the deer-primate friendship, with the latter—primarily langur/monkey at this park—helping in gathering food for the kin of deer, who in turn warn during times of danger.

For about two hours we mapped our given route drinking in the views, trying to decipher jungle calls, and listening to the few nuggets the guide rolled out, even as he kept his ears and eyes open for an indicator on the all-elusive one. Mission Tiger almost seemed to be drawing to a close till a passing jeep mentioned a sighting on another path. And that’s when the chase began.

Ajju, the young driver of our Gypsy, swung into action, literally. The 20 km speed limit in the jungle zone was forgotten as he morphed into Schumacher, throwing all caution to the winds in his race against time. En route, bystanders as the spotted deer, sambhar, neelgai, langur…star attractions up till now, were reduced to nonentities. The King’s arrival had been announced and everything else was a blur. As we approached Chua, the spot the tiger was to make an appearance, we were greeted by a swarm of already-stationed jeeps that frantically gestured us to halt in our tracks. They had caught a glimpse of the tiger approaching and no one wanted that precious chance ruined.  Silence ruled as the crowd awaited the arrival. Seconds ticked by and no movement was heard. And then in a flash emerged B2, the current ageing monarch of these jungles! He nonchalantly walked passed the jeeps, almost at touching distance, least bothered by the rush of flashing cameras or the excited squeals of children. This was his kingdom and he was gracious with us outsiders. B2 crossed the path in less than 15 seconds before disappearing into a bamboo thicket but that was enough to have the crowd agog. They had witnessed a moment that would be long spoken-off. It was my first sighting of an untamed tiger and it took a while to sink in.  

On Day Two we were inside the park by 6 am. November onwards, mornings are considered a fine time for tiger sighting, as the soft paws of the big cats try avoiding the dew, preferring to walk on mud tracks where jeeps ply. We had barely manoeuvred a few bends when sharp warning calls of the langur began booming. The guide immediately directed the driver to change track and move towards Barua Nullah. He was spot on, for we arrived within minutes to find a striped beauty blocking our path. Oh! She was gorgeous.  Young and intense, there was a sort of determination writ across her face. In comparison, seeing the aged B2 yesterday had been a tame, zoo-like episode. We both stood still for a while before she made the first move. Her actions had guide Manjeet Singh exclaiming. “You are fortunate to see this tigress. She is Bhitari, who’s new to the area and is marking territory,” he said, eagerly explaining her moves, as she spray marked and clawed a tree trunk. 
                                          
Then suddenly she changed her path and began approaching us. Ours was the only jeep in front of her and seeing the majestic advance was quite an up-close feeling. Meanwhile, word had got around in the park and soon there was a pile of vehicles at her rear too. All of us feverishly clicked on our cameras. After a few moments, though, I had the urge of tossing my SLR. I felt we were akin to paparazzi hounding a femme fatale. I wanted to watch her intently, but not through the viewfinder. However, the temptation to capture the instant for posterity was too irresistible and the camera stayed on. Her walk towards us was electrifying and I couldn’t divert my gaze from those glowing green eyes. But as she got still closer to our jeep the guide became chary. “Reverse!” he yelled to the driver. “She’s hungry and angry. This can turn ugly.” We slumped onto our seats, with some among us getting visions of a tiger springing forth! Driver Uttam was a master behind the wheel and just as the tigress came within sniffing distance he swiftly drove off. We watched her from a securer position till she faded out of sight, her gait unflustered and regal, so befitting her stature. It was sheer providence that she chose to tread the route we were on, providing an experience to treasure.        

Moments such as these get further stimulating when interacting with persons dedicated to conservation of fauna and its habitat. My opting for accommodation at King’s Lodge — a tasteful eco-friendly property from the stable of Pugdundee Safaris, which also offers the widely-acclaimed Tree House Hideaway in the vicinity — ensured I tuned into absorbing discussions on  tigers, trackers, poachers and more. The force behind the Pugdundee group is founder Shyamendra Singh, an engrossing raconteur of tiger tales, who’s been joined in his passion for providing guests a holistic experience in the wild by naturalist Karan Rana and Manav Khanduja. Their properties speak for themselves: no tree has been felled for construction; the wild grass landscape has been left untouched ensuring a sense of true living in the jungle; and most material used to dress the snug cottages and lounges is in its natural form, particularly arresting being the ingenious use of redundant railway rafters as mirror and windowpane frames.    

The cornerstone of my entire experience was one entity: the tiger. It’s a shame that its tribe is under attack from members of our tribe. Word on conservation needs to spread fast and wide. Chennai-based film-maker Shekar Dattatri is one such individual with an aim to doing precisely that. His recent film The Truth about Tigers is a work of commitment and should be viewed by all. Log on to www.truthabouttigers.org to know more on what you can do. As Shekar questions: If we cannot save our national animal, what can we save? 

Quick facts:

Air: The closest airport is at Jabalpur (164 km/2.5 hrs).
Railways: The nearest railheads are Umaria (31 km/35 min) and Katni (102 km/2hrs), which has better connectivity. Convenient trains from Delhi (boarding at Hzn Nizamuddin) include MP Sampark Kranti and Gondwana Express. From Chennai Sangha Mitra Express is an option.  

Best time: The park opens from mid-October to mid-June. Mid-November onwards is good weather for sightings, barring the fortnight-plus of intense cold beginning around end-December. The harsh summers, though, offer the finest chances of fauna spotting.
Accommodation: King’s Lodge or Tree House Hideaway 

www.pugdundeesafaris.com

0124-4222657-59, 09810253436 

Published in The New Indian Express, November 2010

Bandhavgarh: Some pix of King's Lodge (click on image to view larger size) 

 

Stars minus stripes
 We also roam these jungles...