Amber hues in Krakow: Bedazzled in Old Town

Pristinely-preserved past is Krakow’s big draw, but the glow of its amber outshines the rest

The 700-year-old Sukiennice at Rynek Glowny, the main square in Krakow, Poland, was once a medieval textile trading hub. Shops flanking the long arcade of this elegant Gothic building are now packed with souvenir shops. I halted at the one where a mellow light was filtering through every displayed object and creating a wispy hue. As it turned out, it was the hue of amber. Dulcet and dewy. Almost fairylike.

The bespectacled owner behind the counter chuckled at my dazed expression, “I see that look on most visitors. By the time they reach my shop they’ve seen plenty of ‘I love Krakow’ tees, armies of dolls, lots of lace, wood-carving and ceramics. They are dazzled by amber,” she said. The shop indeed had a lot to offer. Sitting cheek by jowl were lampshades, delicate cutlery, boxes and paperweights, keychains, and loads of trinkets and charms. Each had a hint of amber or were carved out of the precious resin entirely. The owner held a luminous amber pendant against the light and exclaimed, “This little piece has undertaken a long journey. The beautiful Baltic amber must have passed many a hand as it travelled down the Amber Road,” she said.

I was familiar with the Silk Road, the Hindustan-Tibet Road and the Incense Road — all ancient trading routes. The Amber Road, however, was unfamiliar territory. As I stood chatting with the silver-haired Pole, a narrative emerged as maps were fished out and routes retraced. Amber has been big business in Eastern Europe for centuries and trading corridors emerged from its two major sources — the Baltic Sea and the North Sea coast.

The owner relished trivia and had much to say about the superior Baltic amber, a prized, almost revered commodity which the Greeks used as medicine, Romans for jewellery, Egyptians for armour, Chinese in objects d’art, and the Prussians for building palace chambers. “Poland was so busy sending it all over the world that we were content with the hand-me-down rings and pendants of our babcia (grandmother)!” she jested. Amber, we decided, would possibly have reached India through the Silk Route, bartered for spices, brocade or gold. “Amber and salt, which we had in abundance, was as good as gold for us. In fact, it’s poetically called Gold of the Baltic,” she explained.

Unlike precious stones which are found in the rock state, amber is fossilised tree resin and is an organic gemstone much like coral and pearl. To my untrained eye, several of those pieces appeared commonplace, but were actually high-grade jewels boasting supreme clarity. Some, embedded as they were with fossilised insects, took my breath away. Such exotic pieces had made amber worthy of kings and a key agent that filled up the treasury of medieval kingdoms.

Various sea and overland passages were sketched to transport amber. The Romans used the Amber Road, which began at the Baltic coast, ran up the mountains, down the valleys and over corduroy roads and culminated at the Adriatic Sea. It cut across Poland and bits of it are still found here. The ancient path gets a modern makeover with Autostrada A1, officially called AmberOne, an under-construction expressway that nearly traces that route. This north-south corridor runs through central Poland, beginning at Rusocin, near Gdansk on the Baltic Sea and winding up at Gorzyczki, the Polish-Czech border, where it meets the Czech highway D1. The highway is about an hour from Krakow, but the ancient route is believed to have been closer to the town, thus making it prosperous.

I had arrived in Krakow or Cracow after reading closely about its well-preserved 12th-century Old Town, a Unesco World Heritage Site. The site was expectedly atmospheric. Its nucleus, the imposing Rynek Glowny — the biggest medieval market square in all Europe — made a pretty picture with immaculate buildings, outdoor cafes, artists working in the promenades, buzzing restaurants and touristy horse-carriages. The 14th-century Gothic-style St Mary’s Basilica, and the Sukiennice, also called Cloth Hall, are its remarkable landmarks. Footing around Old Town, I was impressed by the exactness of its restoration and the extent of preservation. Almost all public places — avant-garde brand-stores, restaurants or museums — had uber-contemporary interiors, but the exposed brick-work on its walls conveyed the passage of time brilliantly. The past and present juxtaposed seamlessly adding to the character of Krakow.

A little away from Old Town is Kazimierz, the district where the city’s rich Jewish culture is carefully preserved. During World War II, after the invasion of Poland, Jews of the city were forced into a walled zone from where they were eventually sent to concentration camps such as Auschwitz. Steven Spielberg shot a section of Schindler’s List at Kazimierz in 1993.

I was staying on Ulica Florianska, Old Town’s lively high street known for its boutiques, pubs, and carts of obwarzanek, the Krakow bagel. The street also had glass-fronted jewellery shops claiming to sell ‘Original amber with certificate’. Tempted, I had walked into one only to retreat hastily, empty- handed. “Once upon a time people would say, ‘Ah, you bought amber’. Now they say, ‘Oh my! You bought amber!’ That’s how expensive Poland’s most popular souvenir has become,” my guide said in an attempt at consolation. However, I did bring back something priceless from Krakow — the knowledge of a prehistoric trading route.

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/blink/takeaway/krakow-poland-bedazzled-in-old-town/article9790870.ece

Getting there
Krakow is well-connected and all major airlines fly into town.

Stay
Hotel Pod Roza (hotelpodroza.com), an elegant heritage property in Old Town

Tip
Visit Stary Kleparz farmers market for artisanal cheese, lavender and freshly-steamed pierogi (dumplings stuffed with potato or cheese)


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Crackling Krakow: Moods of a medieval city

Voted among the world's most beautiful cities, Krakow's extensive cultural heritage includes Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. It has the biggest Market Square -- now a Unesco heritage site -- in all Europe, was a major junction on the erstwhile amber trading route, has a poignant Jewish connection, a thriving gourmet scene and languid vibrancy that makes this town in southern Poland such a delight to visit. 

Accompany me on a photographic journey... 

Rynek Główny or Main Square of Old Town, Kraków, Lesser Poland: (clockwise from from left): St Mary's Basilica; Carriage trots around with the Cloth Hall or Sukiennice in the backdrop; Krakow restaurant... take a look at the exposed brick and mortar walls... this is the commendable way old architecture is being preserved despite a modern makeover; Krakow, it's said, stays alive from the first bell of the cafes to the last!; The city is dotted with kiosks of obwarzanek, a bread with a hole, something like a bagel. This has a rich tradition in Poland, dating back hundreds of years and is considered a symbol of Krakow.

Krakow and around: (clockwise from top left): Musicians outside St. Florian's Gate... This is the only survivor from among eight gates that originally led into the Old Town. It's at the head of the bustling Florianska Street; Grunwald Monument in front of the Barbican; Wawel Castle; Barbican; Wieliczka Salt Mine; Oskar Schindler's Factory Holocaust museum; snazzy eco-transport. 

Stary Kleparz Farmers' Market: This is a must-visit for foodies. Stuff fresh from the farm and the dairy arrives early morning making the smorgasbord array a feast for the eyes and palate. Let's take you through (clockwise from left): Wild mushrooms and raspberries; Lesser Poland's popular Bundz (sheep-milk) cheese moulded in lovely patterns; dried sunflower pods; lavender stems all dressed up as potpourri; kilebasa stack; this is the famous Polish sour soup in rye bread-bowl, it's a restaurant special and most ingredients travel into it from the market.


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BBC Good FOOD India: Malopolska

Eat like a local 
Malopolska
From artisan cheese to home-brewed liquor, it is all about the good life in this southern Polish region

In a picturesque pocket of Poland lies the sparkling region of Malopolska. A mosaic of quaint villages, Renaissance towns, lavish palaces, towering castles, rich forests, the alpine Tatra mountains and the fertile Vistula valley, so complete is it in itself that it’s often called Little Poland. A mix of diverse geography and rich history is found on its platters that are always served with cheer.

Hearty, unfussy and infused with natural flavours and colours, the strength of Małopolska cuisine lies in using fresh ingredients. Meals are centered around sour or cream-enriched soups and stews (Bigos or Hunter’s Stew is considered the national dish); a selection of breads; braised, cured or roasted meats; pickled vegetables and fruity desserts. Cooking owes it tastes to root vegetables as well as mild spices, particularly marjoram, caraway, dill and poppy seeds. A remarkable variety of kielbasa or sausages (lisiecka is considered culinary perfection), smoked or fresh, spice up the fare. When paired with home-brewed traditional Polish vodka, beer or fruit wines, these are perfect accompaniments for ‘Na Zdrowie’ or raising a toast.  

Quintessentially, ingredients from the fields and forests go into the pans, are cooked with love and relished together by the family. Every meal is a celebration, and endearingly, despite winds of change, like in India, babka (granny) nostalgia is evoked when conversation veers around food. Almost anyone you meet will have their favourite babka recipes to share. It’s no wonder then that one of the most-loved yeast cakes across Poland is simply called ‘Babka’.

The day’s main repast is obiad or dinner and it’s eaten anytime between 12 noon and 4 pm. If it is later than that it’s obiadokolacja or ‘lunchsupper’. In between there’s drugie sniadanie or second breakfast. A leisurely obiad is usually a three-course affair, and  favourites mains include kaczka z jablkami (baked duck with apples and cranberry sauce), kotlet schabowy (breaded pork cutlet) and golabki (cabbage leaves stuffed with a meat and rice). Freshwater fish as trout or salmon are enjoyed too.    

The trade in Baltic amber and salt — from its mines of Wieliczka and Bochnia — particularly enriched Malopolska with assorted culinary customs, one of these was the dumpling that’s now the Polish favourite pierogi. Each region has its version and Malopolska is famed for the classic Pierogi Ruskie that’s simply filled with potato, onion and cheese. It can be a snack or meal in itself. Never steamed (“that’s Chinese”, you are told), these half-moons are always boiled and garnished with a sprinkling of fried onions or browned breadcrumbs, chives and sour cream. Some do prefer it fried.

One of its cousin is the tiny uszka, Polish for 'little ears', that’s prepared with wild mushrooms. These are eaten dunked into the traditional barszcz, a ruby-red complexioned beetroot sour soup. Each season packs pierogi with different stuffing. Summer menus especially offer a variety of fruit fillings, from strawberries and cherries to forest blueberries and orchard-fresh apples. Traditionally, the rolled-out dough is cut into circles using a glass tumbler and whether its star-hotels or farmer homes, everyone adheres to that age-old custom. The singular is pierog, but rarely used, for you can’t just eat one.

Flavoursome soups and wholegrain breads are table regulars and often both use a common ingredient: rye flour. Sour soups are a Slavic tradition, and of the appetizing Zurek it’s said, there are as many recipes as there are homes in Poland. What they all agree on, however, is its homemade sourdough starter zakwas prepared with fermented rye flour. Zurek is often called 'yesterday's menu soup' as a whole lot of raw leftovers are tossed in along with fresh biala kielbasa or white sausage, garlic and mushrooms. Commercially always served in an arresting bread bowl, it’s a lightly tart, creamy-textured soup. An optional sliced hard-boiled egg in it is a treat to the eyes and palate.

Malopolska’s cuisine remains incomplete without the mention of the scenic highlands of Podhale, in the Tatra foothills of the Carpathian Mountain. This is the region that produces the distinct spindle-shaped oscypek, a smoked sheep-milk cheese. Every Tatran worth his cheese will definitely have it on the kitchen shelves, and a grilled oscypek is as gourmet as it gets. Over the years, the cylindrical golka, made with cow's milk, the sour and nutty tasting sheep-milk bundz and the soft, pungent bryndza cheese have gained in reputation.

The celebrated culinary traditions of the Austro-Hungarian Empire have had an enormous influence on Malopolska as has Jewish cooking. So along with strudel, schnitzel, gingerbread and torte, the holiszki as golabki, latkes as placki ziemniaczane or potato pancake etc have also become a part of its repertoire. Borrowing from the French is noticeable too, especially in the all-time-favourite kremowka. This is flavoured creme patissiere between two layers of puff-pastry and, interestingly, has become part of a neo-legend. In 1999, during a trip back home to Wadowice, near Krakow, Pope John Paul II mentioned being fond of it. Overnight the dessert got re-branded ‘kremowka papieska’ or ‘papal cream cake’.  

Though most Malopolska foodstuff has reached department stores there is nothing quite like tasting it in its place of origin, the original way.

 Click here to read complete piece and recipes of 

1 Barszcz Czysty Czerwony

2 Placki Ziemniaczane

3 Pierogi ruskie

4Traditional Polish piernik

Published in BBC Good Food India, September 2014  

Section: eat away

Wieliczka Salt Mine, Poland

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Baltic amber and more

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The Visegrad Four or V4 is an alliance, dating back to 1991, between Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia for socio-economic cooperation. The union was formed at a summit meeting held in the Hungarian castle town of Visegrád, thus its eponymous name. Historically, the four Central European countries have always been part of the same civilization. Today, despite speaking four different languages and having diverse traditions there is a thread of similarity running through them. 

I found my visit to the Visegrad Four culturally enriching. With history and art sharing prime space, walking the streets felt akin to being in a museum. The high-end craft here was exquisite and I learnt this was one the regions of Europe where artists created masterpieces and pampered the lavish lifestyle of aristocracy and royalty from around the world, the Maharajas of Mysore and Patiala included. Here's a pick from the scintillating spread. 

Baltic amber

Almost everyone who goes to Poland comes back with a bit of amber. Considered as precious as gemstones, amber actually is hard, translucent resin found on fossilised coniferous trees. Its colour ranges from white to its most common hue: dark brownish-orange; recall the amber on traffic signals.

Once upon a time amber used to be as cheap as pebbles, no longer though, with Baltic supplies diminishing. But Poland remains synonymous with the resin and visitors throng retail outlets, loving looking at lampshades, trinket boxes, cutlery and jewellery all hand-crafted with amber. I was visiting the historic city of Krakow, southern Poland, and found the quaint Sukiennice, in the Main Market Square, a delightful spot to browse around. As the supply of raw amber shrinks, amber artisans in Poland have turned sophisticated with their designs. Gone are the days when huge amber chunks were worn as jewellery or used in decorations. Today's fare incorporates a lot more sterling silver than amber but the craftsmanship and quality of product is classy.

And just in case you thought the insect embedded in the amber pendant your friend had on was a reject, be aware that it's considered unique and a symbol of being the real thing.

Modra ceramic

In the town of Modra, about 25 km from Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, you can see shop-windows dressed with prettily-designed ceramic ware. This is no ordinary product but one of the most well-known symbols of Slovakian culture.

Created in typical shades of royal blue or bright yellow on a creamy-white base, the pottery has an appealing rustic tone about it and can be found in almost every Slovakian home. Popularly known as Modra ceramic and dating back to the 14th century, hand-painted floral patterns is its distinguishing element. Other motifs include cups, decanters, grapevines or the Christian Cross, and these were meant to depict various trades. A decanter made for a vineyard owner, for example, would have a grapevine. 

The most common and much-sought after shape is the wall-plate (some of these are available with gently-latticed borders), besides which vases, jugs, bells, baskets and tableware items are other fast-movers. The town of Modra has painstakingly preserved the tradition of hand-painted ceramic, making it one of its kind in Slovakia.  

Herend porcelain

This indeed is dishware fit for the kings. The Windsor Castle orders from here and so does the Spanish royal family. Presidents as Kennedy and Regan have sipped tea in it and so have stars like Celine Dion and Harrison Ford. It's called Hungarian 'white gold' and the reason is simple: only the finest porcelain goes into its manufacturing, pure gold is used to dress it up, and most exclusively, each item available on its shelf is hand-painted. Founded in 1826, Herend Porcelain ranks among the largest hand-painted ceramic manufacturers in the world. Situated in the town of Herend in Veszperm county, its on-site Porcelain Museum has a brilliant display of designs down the ages. The complete process of creating the pieces of art can also be viewed. The museum tour ends with a cup of tea or coffee served in signature Herned ware, making the beverage more special.

Herend patterns have been known for their elegance. One of its classic designs is the 'Victoria pattern', with Oriental-style flowers and butterflies, and legend goes that it was named after Queen Victoria who in 1851 ordered a dinner-set bearing this award-winning motif. Recently, to commemorate the birth of Prince George, son of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, William and Kate, Herend has produced a limited edition table-set comprising a bowl, plate, cup, fairy tooth box and a shoe. The set is adorned with a tweaked version of the Victoria pattern in shades of lilac, and is all set to become the next best-seller.

If exquisiteness needed an illustration, Herend is that example. It's almost within reach of you and me, provided we are ready to spend close to Rs 10,000 for a cup-saucer. It's an indulgence and, yes, worth it.

Bohemia crystal and glass

The Bohemia region in present day Czech Republic has always been known for its cutting edge glass manufacturing. Its history goes back to the 13th century when glassmakers stumbled upon a formula that made glass stronger than that being produced elsewhere. Connoisseurs hailed it and Bohemia glass and crystal firmly arrived on the global map never to look back. Prague is ranked among art capitals of Europe and the glass industry is one of its crown jewels. A variety of techniques are involved in creating fine glassware and highly skilled artists work round the year to produce some of the best vases, chandeliers, crockery etc that hold pride of place in homes around the globe. Glass and crystal with cut-work, enamel, litho prints of popular artists and reverse glass painting are Czech areas of expertise.

Moser is a leading name in Czech glass manufacturing, known for its lead-free products and one-of-its-kind coloured glassware. I would recommend a visit to its signature store, housed in a lovely old building, in Pargue.

But how do you distinguish between glass and crystal glass? The basic test: Hold up the object to light. If its glass behaves as a prism and shows you rainbow colours it’s crystal glass. If not, you’re holding plain glass! And did you know, if you run a wet finger on the rim of a crystal glass it produces a musical tone. Test it, get it.  

Published Nov 2013