Autumn Chinar

There isn't a better season than autumn to cruise down the scenic Jhelum when the Valley is dressed in shades of gold and auburn 

In a season as painterly as autumn is in the Valley, nothing escapes its surreal magic. There's  a special luminosity in the environs, giddy fragrance fills the air and every nook wears fresh colour. The accolades for nature’s makeover are all directed towards the elegant chinar, which dresses its leaves in the most blazing colours to lend a radiant twist to the vistas and add a new hue to life and its routines. That a simple leaf can herald hope and joy appears quite incredible but that is what’s always been on view. As autumn enters its final stages, the chinar is at work again, preparing for the grand finale of its fall collection that carpets its grounds to add a degree of romance to reality.

A lingering image of Srinagar in autumn is, well, not the Dal Lake, not the bustle of Boulevard Road, not the Mughal Gardens but something quieter and hidden from popular itineraries. It’s the sight of the impressive AD 1395 Khanqah-e-Moulla — a shrine dedicated to Persian preacher Shah-e-Hamdan in Downtown — standing as a serene backdrop to a silently flowing Jhelum. Theirs is an enduring companionship. Like the Khanqah, the river has seen the designs of destiny change continuously in the Valley. In an altering landscape it has remained unchanged, following its karma to flow through it all, whether grunge or glory, at a rhythm quite tranquil.

The autumn chinar has the astounding ability to transform and one of the experiences it turns around is a leisurely cruise down the Jhelum. A journey by shikara is an excellent way to soak in the river spectacle; and for a change, abandon the option of the tourism pros and instead befriend a genuine local boatman who can genially bring alive the river and give soul to its stories and songs.

So modestly does the river run its course through the city, that more than often it lies forgotten and almost-never has the tourist spotlight on it. Srinagar was essentially a city by the Jhelum till urbanisation distanced the thoroughfare from it. And as the naturally-beautiful waters of the Dal and Nageen lakes magnetically began drawing more attention, the river got further overshadowed. Life by its banks, however, continues to blossom, even as it remains a world away from the standard picture-perfect montages of the city. Experiencing it first hand is like chartering unfamiliar territory where expecting the unexpected becomes the norm, which initially bewilders and then infinitely charms.

The lifeline of the Kashmir valley, the Jhelum, like all subcontinent rivers, is believed to be a form of god, with legend speaking about a celestial combat having lead to its origin.  Known as River Vitasta or Veth in Kashmiri, its source is a spring at Verinag, another striking spot in the foothills of the Pir Panjal. It ribbons through 76 km of the Valley before entering Srinagar and thereafter flowing into the Wular Lake, Asia’s largest freshwater lake, en route its final journey to merge with River Indus.

Srinagar was established on the north-eastern bank of the Jhelum and over time grew on the opposite flank too. The two sides are linked by a series of seven cantilevered wood bridges or kadal, and today only a few, as Zero Kadal and Zaina Kadal, exist in their original shape adding to the fable of Downtown.

As you cruise past villages and pastures, mosques and homes, a day in the life of the Jhelum gradually unfolds to the music of oars softly patting the waters. The visuals almost-appear like sepia-toned watercolour frames, albeit not minus the grime, that fallen leaves of the chinar valiantly try and mask. Despite the woes, the images are alluring…shikaras moored on the banks, a baker carrying his ware in wicker baskets, children rowing to school, a pheran-clad woman packing her boat with freshly plucked spinach, boatmen enjoying early morning cups of kehva, a fisherman casting his net even as his wife prepares the kangri or a tween getting his first lessons in handling oars. At times an impromptu invite to join in for a meal of basmati rice and gustaba adds distinct flavour to the journey.

This older part of town still exhibits classic Kashmiri architecture, which has a Central Asian influence. Most houses along the Jhelum date back close to a century-plus. What typifies them is their lean cubical wood structure with tapering pyramidal roofs, brickwork and characteristic latticed windows. In contrast, almost all new construction in the city shows no admiration for convention and completely no desire to preserve. Some like Iftikhar Jalali, though, take pride in tradition and his lovingly kept home in Zadi-bal gets its share of admirers. The landmark in this riverscape quite distinctly is the Khanqah (halting place for Sufis). It embodies the essence of Kashmiriyat or cultural harmony, and is visited by persons of all faiths. Its remarkable medieval wooden structure, further enhanced by richly engraved and painted interiors, is another exemplar of fast-disappearing characteristic architecture.

The river presents a collage of daily chores; it’s their unhurried pace that appeases. You see it once and move on with a stock of memories. The Jhelum has been a mute witness to it all since centuries and continues to be.


Published in India Today Travel Plus, Jan-Feb 2011 

Khanqah

Hazratbal

Jama Masjid

Tracking Canada via VIA Rail

Upgraded to Business 

Montreal Station

Quebec Station

So, I missed the connecting train to Ottawa. The reason quite simply was my incoming train got in late. Not by a few minutes but an hour and more. It was something I never fathomed would happen in super-efficient Canada. It’s no unusual occurrence for us in India, where we expect a train not to be running on time. So much so, on that elementary blackboard found at all stations to hand-scribble the train status, it’s not startling to find ‘late by 3.5 hrs’ or even ‘18 hrs’, starring unflappably at you, this despite a certain Mamatadi’s claims. In fact, a minor delay like an hour is considered par for the course. Not in Canada, though, where every second is accounted for and the electronic train-info boards proudly flash an efficient ‘On Time’.
“This is a rare incidence, very rare,” the service manager of my coach gravely tells me, as I run up to him yet again, wondering what I’d do in an alien city with no Plan B chalked out. So apologetic and ashen faced was the official at having put a “passenger through immense trouble” that I felt the need to reassure him! “You can place the blame on the Indian aboard,” I joked. But he was in no mood for humour and continued to look solemn.

I was on board VIA Rail’s Train 25, travelling from Quebec City to Montreal. The train’s scheduled arrival was 4.11 pm and considering the record punctuality I had booked myself on the 4.50 pm connection to Ottawa. A transfer time of half-an-hour-plus was ample, I thought, having been told about the systematic Canadian stations with bold signage, alert staff and platforms clubbed in one section. Changing trains at Montreal Central Station, where platforms are underground, would have basically meant going up an escalator and coming down an adjoining one.

It was a wet, grey and stormy day and my train would slow down at regular intervals. By default, I held the weather responsible for the delay, till the service manager mentioned a freight locomotive up ahead on the same track being the cause. “Don’t worry madame,” he had assured in a French lilt, “there are handful other passengers who were to take connecting trains. VIA Rail will compensate.” I wondered what was in store, imagining a parallel situation back home, where I would be running from pillar to paan-chewing officer, trying to manage a refund, spend some hours in a packed waiting room or think about other means of transport to get going.

As we arrived in Montreal an announcement over the train’s public address system asked all passengers who had missed their connections to stay back on the platform. There were 17 of us and the moment we disembarked, we were received by two smart officials of VIA Rail, who besides (yet again) profusely apologising, announced we had all been accommodated on the next trains to our various destinations. Ah relief! Not just that, as compensation we had been upgraded from Economy to Business Class and additionally were being given C$ 15 coupons for buying ourselves a snack. Now, that sounded scrumptious. The list of compensatory rewards, however, didn’t conclude there. We were asked to keep the ticket stubs carefully as these entitled us 50 per cent refund on the fare paid for both legs of the journey, which would be adjusted against a future train reservation. Phew! Missing a train had never felt so good.
The way the entire situation was handled was faultless. There was clockwork precision at each step and I felt we commonplace passengers were given a treatment usually reserved for someone like a state guest. I realised that’s the beauty of discipline the welfare state of Canada/the West is well-known for. Till the train episode, I had found the regimented mindset of the country and its people a tad too binding and sorely missed the chaos of home. Post-that I began appreciating it. Though I still won’t exchange our commotion and its brand of vibrancy for that strict order, an improvement of our systems—basically bringing in commitment and transparency—involving dealings by the common man could definitely do with a complete overhaul.
Quebec to Montreal is around 270 km (train route) and the journey takes three hours between French Canada’s two largest cities. Quebec city, a Unesco world heritage spot, is French, friendly (yes) and boutiquishly charming. Montreal, in comparison, is hip and happening, and has a devil-may-care attitude, especially towards rules. “We do things differently from the rest of Canada,” is their common refrain.
The train stations too reflect the individual personalities and in that respect while Montreal has a contemporary buzz, the château-like heritage Quebec railway station, Gare du Palais, is a delightful place to be: warm and inviting, with a string of restaurants and cafés serving appetising fare. I explored the latter a bit before experiencing pre-boarding formalities that were parallel to air travel, with specific rules for luggage check-in (see factfile) and sequential boarding. Only ticket holders are permitted on platforms which, to me, appeared bereft of any emotion. No chaiwala, no crowd, no noise! What a contrast to the hustle-bustle of an Indian platform where the world converges and at times entire families come for a send-off which translates into waving good-bye till the train is out of sight.
A similar reserved air greeted me within the chair car coaches which albeit had delightfully aesthetic and spotless interiors (when will we ever get close to those standards?) relaxing ambience, attentive service and quick wi-fi internet connectivity. Its large windows conferred a sense of the country’s vastness as the train cut across acres of farmlands and conifer/deciduous forests, passing or stopping briefly at quiet stations like Sainte-Foy, Charny, Drummondville, Saint-Hyacinthe and Saint-Lambert before arriving in Montreal. I was booked in Business Class (earlier called VIA 1) and the ticket included a meal and complimentary Canadian wines. The food was presented and served with a flourish and I relished the experience, even though the vegetarian option was rather sorry, but it was more than compensated with a sinfully-delicious dessert.
Train travel is not an everyman option in Canada. The Quebec-Montreal regular Business Class fare is C$ 158 (Rs 7,900) whereas in India a similar distance and class is around Rs 950. The rates are flexi and fluctuate by the hour depending on demand. However, there are a variety of deals/discounts (economy special fare, discounted, supersaver etc) on offer. By the time I checked fares online and eventually booked, I was left poorer by a few dollars. But what a way I was compensated!

Click image to zoom

Quick facts:
Book train tickets at: www.viarail.ca
Baggage: Maximum of 2 pieces per traveller, with a maximum dimension of (26 x 18 x 9 in) and each weighing up to 23 kg
Accommodation: The luxury Fairmont hotels (www.fairmont.com) were built in the early 20th century, specifically for train passengers. So it’s in order to stay there and absorb history.
Quebec: Fairmont Château Frontenac
Montreal: Fairmont Le Reine Elizabeth

Published in The New Indian Express, January 2011

Quebec: Conversations with the old and new

Friendly and French, that’s Quebec City. It pleasantly erases all stereotypical a la Francaise notions. And even as it conveys being proud of its lineage --- also asserts the fact of bring the ‘largest French-speaking metropolitan area in the English-speaking world’ --- it subtly informs it’s different and free-spirited and should be perceived that way, merci beacoup.

If I were to pick a city from my recent trip to the Canadian East Coast, Quebec would make it to the top. A charming little world in itself — in fact a perfect illustration for the word quaint —it’s an attractive blend of nouveau and vieux (old) cultures. There’s a sense of constant cheer and the sort of bonhomie found in well-knit societies; the reason some Quebecers often adoringly refer to their city as a “big, small town” essentially highlighting the warmth it exudes.

Samuel de Champlain, a French diplomat, now remembered as ‘The Father of New France’ founded Quebec in AD 1608. Perched on a cape, it overlooks St Lawrence River, which in effect has contributed to the city’s name, the origin of ‘Quebec’ having been traced to the native word ‘kebec’, meaning ‘where the waters narrow’.

Of all spots, Quebec’s Old Town, a Unesco world heritage site, is definitely the city’s calling card. This is where I stayed to discover its engaging lanes and bylanes in the best way one can: on foot. The only fortified city in North America, it’s divided into Upper Town (Haute-Ville) and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), with a layout so compact that it makes almost everything accessible in a few minutes. However, exploring it took me a long-long while, as I was constantly pausing and gazing with virtually all places within the Old Town – hotels, restaurants, shops or cafes, managing to delight the senses.

At first glance, what makes any city look good or bad are its structures, and in that respect it’s often said there are few cities in Canada which can boast of architecture as diverse as Quebec. The city’s edifices are distinctly French and English in character but what makes them vibrant are their assorted architectural styles. Built in stone, they are brightened with cheery windows, doors and roofs adding a hamlet temperament to town. 

I began my city excursion from Place Royale in Lower Town, the showpiece of Quebec and the site where Champlain and his people originally settled. This cobblestone square has pretty 400-year-old residences/offices that have been converted into hip touristy shops. Around it are historic sites as the Notre Dame des Victoires Church (AD 1687) and the strikingly-realistic Quebec City Mural, a fresco of the city’s founders done on the side-wall of a five storey building. The wall is a spot for tourists to indulge in some trick photography as they stand in front of the mural and blend with the painted characters.

A few steps away is the sparkling Quartier du Petit-Champlain, considered the oldest shopping district in the continent. Here I found Rue du Petit-Champlain, a narrow cobbled street an absolute gem of a place to stroll. Almost boutique-like in appeal it was dotted with bistros, exclusive lifestyle stores, musicians playing the harp, someone singing a ballad and a collection of people all having fun. I haven’t seen Europe but “it’s so European” is an expression I often heard while browsing here. A perfect place to pick up souvenirs or to relax at a cafe and enjoy the ambience, it was a street I came back to whenever I had a little time on hand!

At the head of Rue Petit-Champlain is a funiculaire that runs up to Upper Town, and travelling in this ‘cable car on rails’ is a must-do. The funiculaire opens on to Terrasse Dufferin, a promenade offering scenic views of St Lawrence River besides having an expansive monument of Champlain. As expected it’s a popular spot and usually has a band of performing artistes, musicians, painters entertaining the crowds. It was no different when I visited it on a very windy- chilly-rainy day, the weather not being a deterrent for enjoyment. I’m not used to such chill and escaped into one of the nice-looking shops nearby to warm myself. 

Just across the Terrasse, and dominating the prominent line-up of buildings in Quebec, is the overwhelming Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. Definitely the most dramatic landmark of the city, its castle-like architecture replete with turrets clearly lord’s over Quebec’s skyline and reportedly is the most photographed hotel in the world. As I stepped into this iconic place it felt as if time had rewound to a few centuries. Impeccably maintained, an experience of Quebec remains incomplete without a visit here. The hotel offers a tour of its property (for a fee) and adds a little drama by having your group guide dressed as a character from the past.

Another eye-catching section of the city which stood out for its colossal Victorian architecture was Parliament Hill. However, amongst all places of tourist interest, one that touches an emotional chord for local Quebecers is the Plains of Abraham. This is the site of the decisive AD 1759 war in which the British defeated France and annexed Quebec, writing a chapter of history that still rankles the populace and leads to voices demanding autonomous rights of governance. The battle is an episode of history that’s not likely to be forgotten and is clearly reflected in their motto: ‘Je me Souviens’ or ‘Yes I remember’. All vehicle number-plates carry that maxim, as a constant reminder, even as Quebec wakes up to a new day.

A weekend in Quebec is just enough to do a quick round of its spots. Beyond that there are theatre shows, cruises, adventure et al to revel in. Soon winter fests will unravel lots more. And as it gets colder Hotel de Glace, the famous ice hotel, will show a new way to experience winter.

Factfile:

Getting in: Air Canada and Delta fly into Quebec City

Getting around: To commute between Upper and Lower towns take the stairs or the funiculaire. Electric buses also ply frequently. Quebec tourism offers a ‘city passport’, a booklet that has discount vouchers on fee to monuments, museums, transportation etc.

Accommodation: The two best options are: Hilton Quebec (www.hiltonquebec.com) that offers splendid panoramic views of town and Château Frontenac Hotel (www.fairmont.com/frontenac) that stands on the foundation of history. 

Published in Deccan Herald

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/129483/conversations-old-new.html

Kalpa

On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner range, appearing to be touching distance away 

When summers scorch the plains the prospect of running away to the mountains soothes. But it’s the thought of finding snow that tantalises, and how. A mission comes into focus. Bragging rights garner attention and animated conversation revolves around swirls of white, flakes of white and sheets of white. Schedules are made and aborted, till one fine day the smug white heat outside the door unbearably appears in sharp contrast to the white the mind has warmed up to. In the titanic clash of whites, one is the expected winner, and plans get firmed to finally set-out. If life’s joys lie in small things, chasing snow in summer is the god of small things.

Some mountains roads overtime have come to acquire cult status. Amidst that line-up are a few which qualify as classics on the sheer strength of name. The Hindustan-Tibet Road is one among those. Though officially stripped of that aura and austerely referred to as National Highway or NH 22, nothing has altered its charm for the traveller for whom it still promises the heady romance associated with surface voyages of yore. This highway, an accomplishment of perseverance in itself, runs through the heart of Kinnaur, one of the prettiest regions of Himachal, and apart from quenching the thirst for adventure leads to sun and snow locales, certainly a blissful thought during blisteringly hot conditions.

The 459-km route runs across the colonial-meets-chaos landscape of Shimla, rises up to the alpine-line of Narkanda, zig-zags past the apple orchards of Thanedar-Kotgarh, races through Rampur and a little ahead of Jeori (a diversion here leading to Sarahan), enters the scenic valley of Kinnaur. The shift in terrain from the twists and bends of Shimla’s green hills to the ruggedness of Kinnaur is quite stunning and the mountains appear like sculpted art. More than the destinations, the road becomes a point of discussion as it rapidly ascends and descends, at times precariously clinging to the edge and on occasions grandly zipping through dramatically-carved sheer rock. The River Sutlej is its steady escort and moody waters add another irresistible element of gaze in the already-stimulating mountain canvas. Nature has the ability to sparkle in every season and bursts of summer resplendence are brought in often by a brilliant lavender jacaranda peeping through dense conifers, wild roses cascading down a barren hillside, a flame of the forest in red profusion or the silver oak proudly presenting its mustardy-orange flowers. The colours sparkle and the contrasting mountains heighten the effect. 

During the initial stages of the onward journey through Kinnaur, a driver’s skills are tested often in encountering the appalling Wangtu-Karcham section, where hydel projects are works in progress and have ruined the terrain. An unexpected spell of rain does add to woes of this segment, but these are the sort of challenges mountain addicts thrive on, the successes in such moments adding to the bag of brag to be dug into often, long after the journey is over. The intermittently good-bad tarmac clears out a little before the uphill detour for Reckong Peo, the district headquarters of Kinnaur. The NH carries on to Sumdo and enters Spiti where it winds up at Kaurik, the Indian frontier which needs to be accessed on foot. For mission snow, though, you needn’t stretch yourself the full distance. A spectacle awaits at Kalpa, a destination 14 km ahead of Reckong Peo and 220 km from Shimla.

The drive up to Kalpa (9,051 ft) is impressive to say the least, with the pretty chilgoza or pine-nut tree (this region is said to produce the country’s best) lining the winding road and the whiff of snow drugging the air. The mountains play hide-and seek and the eyes stay peeled to spot the White. The road is flawless, the drive is smooth and a few mountain twists later when the vehicle halts the spectacular stuns. On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner Kailash range, appearing to be at touching distance. And it’s white. Snow-white! It looks magnificent against the brilliant blue of the sky and to use a clichéd expression ‘takes your breath away’. Often the actual lacks the beauty a picture-postcard conveys. Kalpa is real and utterly beautiful. Its postcard will never be a lie. The search for sun and snow is rewarded here, and magnificently so.

Kalpa is characteristically quaint and picturesque. It has lovely walking trails and friendly people with lyrical voices, typical kath-kuhni (walls built with alternating slabs of wood and stone) homes with gently sloping slate roofs, apple orchards in blossom running down the hills and a reigning quietude that’s interrupted only by the chirping of the birds or chants from temples and monasteries. These are features quite mountain-specific but are elevated to a new high by the glorious Kinner massif. As with all ‘Kailash’ suffixed mountains, this is also considered the legendary winter abode of Lord Shiva. His homes are in choice locales and at Kalpa he lets you savour a bit of that experience. Do make sure, though, that you strike a deal with the weather gods to keep overcast grey skies at bay and let the White reign. 

Published in India Today Travel Plus, Jan-Feb 2011

The HPTDC cottage has a vantage location. There are comfortable mod-cons within its aesthetic, traditional structure. You would need to demand the best, though (housekeeping being a bit jaded). 

Hail Shiva! This is one of his many 'Kailash' abodes. Spotting the Kinner Kailash peak in this pix is akin to finding the proverbial needle in the haystack.  

The sun does shine in Kalpa, adding a glisten to the snow and surroundings. On such days the clouds tip-toe away to reveal a shy blue sky.   

Toronto: Where Earth meets the Sky

The first impression about Toronto is its vertical limitlessness. Everything appears to be racing up-up-upper to meet the sky. Winch your neck and all you see is a bit of blue peeping from between two tall orders of concrete and glass. At night this sensation gets exaggerated when it seems the stars have come sailing down to twinkle. It’s the sparkle of the city’s neon lights but considering the dizzying heights these glow from they could just as well be the stars, the celestial real as it is not standing a chance to shine through the urban luminosity. 

Yet, Toronto can be dwarfed. And it’s Canada’s National Tower, more famously known as the CN Tower, which shrinks it in 58 seconds flat. That’s the time taken to rocket up 1,122 ft (342 m), just a few feet below its pinnacle, in a glass elevator to get a bird's eye view of the city. During daylight hours, from up above here, the metropolis layout looks like Lego-land with all blocks impeccably intact but come night and it seems the stars are beneath your feet! Located in Downtown Toronto, the CN Tower is quite predictably the city’s pride, as till recently it was considered the world’s tallest freestanding tower at 1,815 ft (553.3 m), an honour it held since it was opened to the public in 1976. Its status moved to second spot in 2010 with the inauguration of the Burj Khalifa, Dubai, which stands at a staggering 2,717 ft (828 m). The CN Tower dominates the Toronto skyline and visitors are enthusiastically shown the tapering structure. My city tour, true to form, began from this landmark. 
We had reached Toronto in the evening, about 20-long-hours after taking-off from Delhi, layover included. Immigration check had taken another hour and more, with some among us being scrutinised twice over, lest we cause trouble in ‘immigrant paradise’. The disciplined drive from Pearson airport to Downtown provided a preview of a city  we would explore the next day. Besides the vertical what impressed was the pretty, maple-fringed Lake Ontario that lends its name to the district.
The CN Tower is essentially a communication and surveillance tower containing multiple observation levels — including Sky Pod the highest of them all; a glass floor with a view right down till the ground which can give butterflies in the stomach to the weak-hearted; souvenir shops; and a one-of-its-kind revolving restaurant offering fine-dining experience and the world’s highest wine cellar. Appropriately called ‘360’, this is where I got my first taste of Toronto, quite literally so. The best time to be here is at dusk when the sky is a painter’s canvas and the city skyline a dramatic silhouette. The cuisine at 360 is designed by an award-wining chef and I looked forward to a piping hot platter just perfect for a cold night. Instead with there being just one vegetarian option I had to settle for ‘crispy curried eggplant with buffalo mozzarella’. I found it was arty but a little too gourmet for a ruggedness my tastebuds demanded at that time. I missed my tureen of dal! 
During a Toronto visit, the CN Tower is a singular experience for the unrivalled variety it offers. Even its security check is unusual and I was taken completely by surprise when I entered the futuristic blue-and-silver portals of the puffer machine (usually seen at US airports, I'm told). This latest technology uses puffs of air to detect explosives or drugs. Air blasts hit me all over for about 14 seconds during the scrutiny. Thankfully, I was declared safe and stepped out feeling I had mercifully escaped a gale. 
Canada’s most bustling city, Toronto is considered its financial and entertainment capital, and Central District is the place to catch this buzz. It has the best spread of gourmet restaurants, nightlife, hotels, visual arts, fashion and more. To mention a few, there’s the Princess of Wales and Royal Alexandra theatres; the new permanent home of the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), the Bell Lightbox; the happening Yonge Street—the oldest street of the city and also considered the longest in all North America; prêt shopping hot-spot as King Street or ritzy boutiques of Yorkville and Bloor St West; the outdoorsy St Lawrence Market and Kensington Market known for fresh food products; the ever-popular Queen West, the city’s one-stop hip cultural street; and of course it’s got the CN Tower that lord’s over them all.
In addition to these diverse attractions, Central Toronto is also the parliamentary and academic heart of the city, these institutions being housed in a set of heritage buildings, standing in pleasant architectural contrast to contemporary glitz. Within the beautiful Queen’s Park is the AD 1893 Legislative Building, a meeting place for Ontario’s Members of Provincial Parliament and it looked serene when I saw it in the early sunlight, a world away from the nightlife frames I had witnessed a few blocks away. Around the corner is the sprawling and impressive AD 1856 Romanesque Revival St George campus at the University of Toronto. This neighbourhood is part of the ‘discovery district’ that includes the Royal Ontario Museum and the Royal Conservatory of Music.
A place where old and new coalesce in a unique blend is at the Toronto City Hall. The complex has semi-circle twin towers and between them is the inverted-saucer-shaped council chamber, the positioning seeming like two hands cradling the chamber, representative of safeguarding the interests of the state. This arrangement has also given it the moniker of ‘Eye of the Government’. It overlooks the Nathan Phillips square, which in winter turns into a popular skating rink. Adjoining the twin towers is the Old City Hall, at present the court house, which has classical architecture. The two landmarks together present a past-blends-into-present frame signifying a dynamic and growing city which is proud of its roots. It’s a thought shared by millions of immigrants who have made vertically-expanding Toronto their home and contribute in making it a vibrant multi-ethnic city.     

Quick Facts:

Air: Daily flights from Delhi, Mumbai to Toronto

Railways: The VIA Rail System has a network throughout Canada. As compared to India, railway travel in Canada is an expensive mode and its tickets have flexi-rates.

Bus: A day pass of C$ 10 is available for TTC (Toronto Transit Commission) buses and it allows limitless travel within the city.

Tram: Toronto is the only Canadaian city where trams (streecars) run.

For city tour: www.allabouttoronto.com; Phone: 416-495-8687


Published in The Hindu, January 2011