Kanker, Chitrakoot etc: Far from the touristy crowd

All yours: Boating at the magnificent Chitrakoot Falls in Bastar, Chhattisgarh.
 Photos by author

A choice of  off-beat, off-season destinations that spare you the scramble for ticket and hotel bookings. 

You’ve woken up to the thought of a family holiday a tad late. But by this time, perennial winter favourites Goa, Rajasthan, and Kerala are all packed to capacity. Don’t fret, there’s hope. Here are some offbeat, off-season destinations where you can still hope to get hotel bookings (the heritage/ luxury resorts suggested are destinations in themselves) and relatively cheap air-tickets.

Just think beyond the usual and you could find yourself amidst experiences you’ll cherish a lifetime.

ALMORA, UTTARAKHAND

This is a popular summer destination, but if you can bear the cold a bit, this place in the lap of the Himalayas will enamour you. At this time of the year, the Nanda Devi, Trishul and Panchali peaks surrounding this town of the Kumaon hills are splendidly clear, and it’s a joy to do nothing more than enjoy their majestic sight. An overnight train from Delhi will get you there early morning, letting you make good use of the day.

The activity line-up includes a trip to the Binsar wildlife sanctuary, walks to Kumaoni villages with their well-preserved architectural heritage, treks through lovely cedar forests, and bird-spotting. If all this sounds like too much work, you can just curl up on a hammock and read, laze, and sun till the bonfires are lit.

Stay: Kalmatia Sangam (www.kalmatia-sangam.com)

ALIPURA, MADHYA PRADESH

Alipura quite really is the heart of Bundelkhand. Once a bustling dominion established in 1757 AD, it is now a quiet hamlet in Chhatarpur district. This is ideal if you are looking to spend a heritage holiday in a non-touristy place, and highly recommended if you want a genuine rural experience away from hawkers and pollution. Situated midway on NH 75, which connects Jhansi/ Orchha with Khajuraho/ Panna National Park, it is worth reshuffling your itinerary to include a visit here, more so if you don’t want to spend an entire day travelling on the highway.

Besides offering a break, Alipura allows you to explore Bundelkhand’s past. An alternative is to extend your trip to include the splendid Bandhavgarh National Park, which is connected via an overnight train to Katni/ Umaria from Harpalpur, 15 km from here.

Stay: Alipura Palace (www.alipurapalace.com)

KANKER, CHHATTISGARH

Kanker is the gateway to Bastar, a land still refreshingly original and very welcoming, despite reports of turmoil tumbling out of its frontiers. The NH 43 running via Kanker is the State’s lifeline, linking capital Raipur with the southern district of Bastar. A stay at Kanker will allow you to visit tribal settlements, attend atmospheric village haats (see pix), go trekking in tropical forests, and visit wildlife parks. An added attraction is a stay at the Kanker Palace, which will delight you with old-world features, such as the cloth ceiling fan that’s still in usable condition. A day-trip to the spectacular Chitrakoot Waterfall and boating in its waters should be another gem.

Stay: Kanker Palace (www.kankerpalace.com)

NALDEHRA, HIMACHAL PRADESH

Naldehra is well preserved and abounds in natural splendour. Pleasant hikes, mountain air, mist outside the window, and a crackling log-fire when the sun sets are some of the reasons to be here when the temperature dips. Pine and deodar trees frame this hamlet, famous for the country’s oldest nine-hole golf course designed by Lord Curzon. Naldehra is literally in Shimla’s backyard (22 km/ 35 minutes away), but away from the capital’s congestion and tourist traps, which allows you to explore its fading yet classic beauty at your convenience.

Stay: The Chalets Naldehra (www.chaletsnaldehra.com)

RAMPURA, UTTAR PRADESH

In an idyllic milieu and far from the madding crowds, Rampura allows a peep into Bundelkhand besides showing off the decadent grandeur of its out-of-a-fairytale fort. Its drawing power is its location at the edge of the infamous Chambal ravines, offering a scrumptious platter for those with an interest in history. In its vicinity are a number of forts, some crumbling, at Gopalpura, Tiher, Jagmanpur, Saravan, Sewnda, Machand, Lahar and Kalpi. Rampura lies off the Kanpur-Agra route, and can be a perfect stopover on a road journey from Lucknow to Orchha or Gwalior.

Stay: Fort Rampura (www.fortrampura.com)

Published in The Hindu Business Line, Dec 2012  

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/far-from-the-touristy-crowd/article4218004.ece

Sujani: Stitch art of Bihar

Contemporary sujani motif on a chanderi stole 

These are exciting times for sujani, the stitch-art from Bihar.  Having sat modestly in hamlets across the state for several decades, it’s seeing its revival.

Initially created for use as household linen, in its current avatar sujani is increasingly embellishing apparel. It’s wooing not merely the ethnic market by making an appearance on dupattas, sarees and kurtas but has found favour among those with more contemporary tastes and accordingly kimono jackets, stoles, skirts, tees etc are being adorned with these threads.

While different forms of hand-embroidery across the country made rapid strides, sujani got overshadowed by the social  environment prevalent in the state and also by the immense popularity of other folk arts of Bihar: madhubani and papier-mache. It’s been the effort of NGOs, especially in the state’s Muzaffarpur district, that’s seen it emergence. The barometer of popularity of a folk-form these days can be gauged when it makes its presence felt at premium handicraft fairs. Sujani, unknown till a few years to the layperson, is now a permanent feature attracting a cross-section of buyers.     

Colour and form

Quite fundamentally, sujani is a form of quilting. Traditionally its canvas was old sarees and dhotis that were layered together. These were embellished with simple line or motifs in running stitch to give the recycled structure a new look. The layers of decorated muslin cloth were transformed into a quilt or mat for home use.

Sujani often gets mistaken with the kantha of Bengal as it is seemingly similar in appearance. The subtle difference lies in the colour scheme and theme. By tradition, the embroidery is always on a cream-base fabric and the pattern usually portrays village life. Also, in sujani the motifs are almost-always outlined in black chain-stitch with the inner detailing being in colour. The other distinction between the two is that unlike kantha where the stitch can be done in any direction, in sujani these are always in straight lines.  

Traditional motifs 

Current winds have ensured while the basic art remains the same, a slight variation has given it a new idiom that’s enthusing fashionistas and folk-craft aficionados alike and is definitely more appealing for today’s buyer who has plethora of apparel choices. The most prominent shift has been in the theme of embroidery and the outlining that’s now done in various colours brightening a pattern. 

“The customer these days is always looking for novel ideas. Till a few years back we were embroidering only those motifs that we had learnt from the elders. What I’m doing now is the same form of embroidery but on a different material, with different motifs, for a different clientele,” says Archana Kumari, a young girl from Ramnagar village, Bihar, who made the effort to study the nuances of textile designing which has helped her in giving the sujani patterns she embroiders a refreshingly-fresh edge. She has combined tradition and modern with utmost grace and her patterned silk stoles are a hot seller. “The shift to apparel from the conventional linen has made a big difference as far as sales are concerned,” she says, adding, “Sujani is being regarded as the next big thing in the fashion world. We need to explore a few more avenues before it goes truly international and is reognised more widely in the country just as kantha or kutchi embroidery is.” 

Revival and uplift

Sujani was a recreational task for the village woman, who tried to beautify her home with the meager resources available. She embroidered what she knew best: traditional motifs thus were a display of village life and folklore. Interestingly, beside it being employed as linen, the first known use of sujani-embellished cloth as a piece of clothing is a shawl to wrap the new born. The concept behind using worn-out clothes for a baby — a tradition followed till date across the country despite the offerings of multi-brands — was the reasoning that used fabric would be soft on tender skin. 

What could have developed as a popular stitch-art form, dwindled because of poverty and unstable social conditions. Consequentially sujani did not receive patronage that other forms of embroidery got, chiefly via government policies of independent India that encouraged cottage industry.  

It’s since the past three-plus years that NGOs active in Sarfuddinpur and Bhusra villages of Muzzafarpur district,      Bihar, have inspired confidence and got village women to re-look at their craft. The explicitly-visible makeover in style via a change in motif and fabric has shown desired result. The increased sales and exciting opportunities is a shot in the arm not just for sujani but it’s also been instrumental in empowering women artisans.  

These experiences are reflected in their work. “Via our motifs we express the new understandings we have acquired. It’s through this embroidery-skill that we have crossed frontiers. Our women had not stepped out of their home surroundings. Some of them now travel confidently and deal with customers themselves,” says Sanju of Sujani Mahila Jeevan, Bhusara.   

New and old

The new motifs Sanju speaks off includes presenting city-life, gadgets (yes, the cell phone has become a prominent part of sujani pattern), social themes and also their experiences of visiting new lands. “The pattern I’ve made of New York on a sujani shawl I’ve designed always draws curious glances and appreciation,” beams Archana Kumari. Her figurines of women on the fashion ramp also demand attention.

Interestingly, the new-age buyer does find traditional pattern on garments quite funky. So apparel, especially skirts and tees, with conventional sujani motifs of village scene or a pond with turtles and fishes is as much a rage as the newly-experimented-with geometrical and floral patterns. These trends certainly bode well for a stitch-art that’s now begun getting long-overdue recognition.

Published in Apparel, December 2012 

Orchha

Tucked away in the recesses of my mind is an enduring image about Orchha, that lovely medieval hamlet by River Betwa in Madhya Pradesh. It’s often recalled, often spoken-off but never forgotten. And no, it’s not about the town’s renowned monuments, though they do play a guest role, it’s about people, a band of pilgrims to be precise. 

This group from Tikamgarh, about 85 km away, was passing through Orchha en route Rajasthan. They had arrived around dawn and were energetically going about their morning business: laundry, bathing, grooming in and around the river waters. When I sauntered to the Betwa riverside a little after daybreak I was treated to that unforgettable view. Their laundry — bright sarees, white dhotis and kurtas — were spread out on the many boulders in the river, making a vibrant foreground to the serene backdrop of chhatris (cenotaphs) on the opposite riverbank. It was a charmingly-quintessential rustic India spectacle but what added to its aura was my interaction with this merry group.    

The weather was cold and this was an elderly gang traversing the terrain on foot and spending nights under the cover of stars. It would take them days to reach their destination but nothing was a deterrent. All they carried as part of their belongings for the month-long tour was, well, the forerunner of today’s backpack, the humble jhola, filled with literally two pieces of clothing, some of which I had seen adding colour to the Betwa’s shores. One of the persons had a traditional drum that was placed on the feet and played and another a manjira (pair of cymbals); these instruments being required for impromptu bhajan sessions of the kind I witnessed when they had spruced themselves and were ready for departure. This leisurely pack, I felt, was the classic Indian traveller, who had been on the go for centuries, his tote full of experiences, save we urban cookies had forgotten he existed long-long before we began hitting the trails. Orchha acquainted me with an engaging sliver of invisible India, the reason it stays a top-of-the-line travel experience.

Now a palm-sized hamlet, Orchha was once a seat of power. Established by Bundela rajput chief Rudra Pratap Singh in 1501 AD, dynastic rule continued in the kingdom until the privy purse was introduced following India’s independence. With its rulers being patrons of art, today’s Orchha is a proud keeper of their legacy and is celebrated for its attractive collection of 16th -17th century edifice, considered glorious illustrations of Bundelkhand architectural heritage. Each is further wrapped in a delightful legend; and with tour guides adding their bit of rehearsed drama to history, walking the dusty lanes of Orchha feels akin to going back in time.

The most imposing of Orchha’s structures is the Jahangir Mahal built by Raja Bir Singh Deo. A seven-level construction, it’s a fetching mix of Indo-Islamic design, with jharokhas (jutting windows), chhatris (domed pavilions), chajjas (eaves) and jalis (lattice) dominating the play in the sandstone. Perceptibly, distinct Chinese elements are part of the relief design, as the chrysanthemum flower or the pagoda style sloping roof of a few chhatris. This, my guide informed, was on account of trade with China and was inspired by elaborate brocade patterns royalty wore. I could not authenticate that part of the information but it surely added a degree of romance while viewing stone and mortar of a bygone era. Constructed to commemorate the visit of Mughal emperor Jahangir (then still known as Prince Salim) to Orchha, it’s still in relatively good shape and a trek to its top-most level provides a beautiful view of the idyllic town. 

The mahal is part of the Orchha Fort complex that includes the Raj Mahal, where frescoes—Diwan-i-Khaas has Persian carpet-like motifs—are not to be missed, and the Rai Parveen Mahal a bit downhill, that was built by Raja Indramani (1672-76 AD), for his eponymous consort, who quite typically was a court singer-dancer, poetess and a stunning beauty. Her two-storey palace, amidst the gardens of Anand Bagh, is unfortunately often skipped by visitors owing to its tad-tedious access. But a visit here does bring alive her love legend and I could almost hear the melodic sound of ghunghroos as I viewed Rai Praveen’s dancing portraits painted on the lime plaster walls. Yes, my experience was courtesy the tour guide who indeed had an overflowing bank of fascinating tales. one of these being her subtle rejection of Emperor Akbar via a couplet.

While on myths, there’s an intriguing one about Orchha’s Ram Raja Temple, said to be the only temple in the country where Lord Rama is worshiped as monarch. Legend says, the wife of Maharaja Madhukarshah (1554 –1592 AD), Maharani Ganesh Kunwar, an ardent devotee of Lord Rama, was returning from Ayodhya with his idols which were to be installed in an especially-built shrine (now called Chaturbhuj Temple). Legend says, Lord Rama had agreed to come on a few conditions these being, he would rule Orchha and secondly his idol would remain where it was placed initially. As the maharani had retuned to the kingdom late at night she naively kept the idols in her palace with the idea of moving them to the new temple’s sanctum-sanatorium the next morning. At sunrise when she tried lifting the idols they wouldn’t move... and ever since the palace became Lord Rama’s temple and the shrine built for him, later down the years, turned into a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his Chaturbhuj (or four arm) form.  

The Chaturbhuj Temple is rather striking and I felt it was similar to visiting a basilica. Almost every aspect of its design —vaulted roof, massive doors and large corridor— reinforced the notion. Another impressive edifice was a short distance away from town centre, about 1 km that is; remember Orchha is tiny! It was the Lakshmi Narayan Temple which I found was a mix of quirky architecture and remarkable Bundeli style painting on walls and ceilings. There were also some valuable depictions of the 1857 mutiny.

These and a few other small structures — as the Phool Bagh that has the unique Sawan-Bhadon towers, which are wind catchers, a concept that arrived here from Iran — are key tributes in stone that Orchha offers. But what I found most charming were its 14 chhatris or cenotaphs to Orchha rulers, all grouped along the Kanchana Ghat of River Betwa. This is where I would return often to treat myself to myriad bucolic frames, one of these being the merry band of pilgrims, which was to leave me mesmerized.

Orchha’s small market square is a bustling place, very backpacker like and sometimes very noisy, till quite late at night. Its shops largely sell souvenirs and brass collectables, both nouveau and genuine antiques, which had me browsing through quite often for a bargain. Most eateries, serving Indian choices as aloo-puri, are around Ram Mandir. These are interspersed with handful modest cafes serving surprisingly sparkling European fare.

Orchha means ‘hidden place’. Truly, this little gem   hides plenty of surprises. One of these being rafting (see below). Go discover some on your own and return enthralled.  

  

RAFTING

MP Tourism (07680-252618) organises two river rafting safaris (up to six persons per raft). Beginning from the scenic Kanchana Ghat, the 90-min package (3.5 km/ Rs 1,200) includes refreshments, while the 3-hr package (6 km/ Rs 2,000) includes breakfast or lunch.

Published in TimeOut Explorer, Sept-Nov 2012  

Eating out in Macau

Michelin-starred Antonio on Taipa island

Think Macau and usually moolah machines of its numerous casinos flit through the mind. That’s really because the island has chosen to market itself that way. It’s time to recognise Macau for its other ‘c’, its cuisine. Centuries of absorbing history — dominated by Portuguese colonisation of this Asian outpost in the South China Sea — has influenced local cooking, turning the island into a scrumptious platter offering global flavours.

If a gastronomic experience is what you look for during your travels, Macau is likely to pamper the palate. Vegetarians too will be able to have quite a fill, though a little scrutiny is required before placing an order, especially when opting for local cuisine, as a bit of the no-no ingredient may mange to sneak into a dish. Most restaurants serve pictorial menu cards making it a tad easier in knowing what to expect. Here are some tried and tested options to choose from during a visit.    

1 Macanese: When the Portuguese arrived here they brought with them a host of ingredients and recipes from their settlements in India, Africa, South America and of course back home. These were fused with the local Chinese style of cooking to create what is now called Macanese cuisine, a sparkling convergence of international flavours. Typically Macanese dishes are seasoned with an assortment of spices, including coconut milk, peppercorn, turmeric, cinnamon, lemon, bay leaves and for sure balichao or shrimp paste that gives this cuisine its distinctive edge. Some signature dishes include: Galinha à Africana (African chicken grilled in peri peri peppers), Pato de cabidela (duck), Galinha à Portuguesa (Portuguese-style baked chicken) besides Arroz de Pato (Baked duck rice), and an assortment of marine fare. The atmospheric Restaurante Litoral in Taipa is a popular halt, whereas near Downtown the snug Restaurante O Porto Interior is an option.

2 Portuguese: Tucked in between the Macanese restaurants are those serving near-original Portuguese fare, though the true-blue Lisboans contest that making noises about it all being localised cuisine and not as robust as expected. Despite mixed reviews there is chance for you to taste some classics as: Bacalhau (salted cod fish, that’s given the tag of Portugal’s national dish and can be prepared in a zillion ways…okay, at least 365 ways is the standard saying), Caldo verde, the delicious kale-potato soup with slivers of chorizo sausage, Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato (sautéed clam), Salada de Polvo (Octopus Salad), Leitão Assado (roast suckling pig) and Pata negra (black ham). It’s said Portuguese fare doesn’t get more authentic this side of the world than at the Michelin-starred Antonio, the inviting little restaurant of celebrated chef António Coelho in Taipa.

From top: Breakfast time at a tea room; almond
cookies being prepared at a confectionery; street
 fare: fish, shrimp and more 

3 Street food and more: Every place has its version of off-the-street quickies. Macau is popular for the pork chop bun, a cousin of the hamburger with an Oriental twist to its taste. The bun is lightly crisp on the outside, deliciously soft inside and the pork chop is generously marinated with black pepper. Uncomplicated, yet addictive it surely is, going by numbers who munch on it delightfully. Carts selling pickled fish/shrimp balls on skewers, besides a variety of meat, are other crowd pullers.

The popular tradition of tea rooms can be observed in Downtown from dawn to midday. During mornings you’ll see groups of customers huddled around round tables reading newspapers and animatedly chatting as they partake of the typical breakfast fare of lo mai fan (glutinous rice porridge) served with greens and topped with a fried egg. Served day-long around Macau are promising-looking dim sums. Some favourites are: siu mai (steamed dumplings stuffed with pork/shrimp), ha gau (steamed dumplings filled with shrimp) tsun guen (stuffed and fried shrimp rolls) and char siu pau (steamed buns stuffed with pork). 

A typical Macau culture is confectionery shops happily offering samples of Chinese style dry meat, almond cookies, egg rolls, sesame and peanut nougats. These are all cut up in bite sized pieces and laid out to tempt customers. Hard-selling ensures you can pick on quite a bit and easily settle your lunch just walking along such streets found at all market places! 

4 Cantonese:  The variety of Chinese food is as varied as Indian. We are usually exposed to a mere handful of dishes basically from China’s costal provinces. Though Macau serves a huge variety, Cantonese is what most visitors opt for, the reason for its easy visibility. Make your experience a little different by visiting Rua das Lorchas or Rua da Alminrante Sergio near the Inner Harbour where fresh catch is served at restaurants. Try Ta Pin Nou, a soup served in a tureen on the table. Most menus include favourites as shark fin soup, Peking duck and tofu. Noodles are called fitas here and come in endless forms.  

5 South East Asian and Japanese: Located on the Outer Harbour is Macau Fisherman's Wharf. A themed plaza that has a lot of high-end shops, convention halls etc, it’s the place to savour a variety of flavours. Vietnamese, Indonesian, Thai, Japanese cuisine compete for eyeballs and taste-buds and there’s always a rush here, especially at the waterfront restaurants. For more variety in Thai, make your way to Rua de Abreu Nunes, locally called ‘Thailand Street’ for the ample choice of restaurants here. Book a table at Edo if soba noodles, sashimi, sushi and teppanyaki is what you’re in a mood for.    

Antica Trattoria

6 Italian and French: After trying an excess of Oriental cuisine, for comfort food there’s nothing more scrumptious than a pasta or fondue. A lovely cosy Italian restaurant and bar with a crackling menu, wines included, is Antica Trattoria (Vista Magnifica Court). The thin crust pizzas are scrumptious and so are the breads and desserts. The trattoria atmospheres makes you want to linger a little more at this first-storey eatery. Aux Beaux Arts (MGM Grand Macau) is a Parisian-style brasserie serving classic French cuisine in warm surroundings. Its seafood platter and pumpkin soup is highly recommended.

7 Indian: Following a few days of sampling multi flavours, the taste-buds long for a bite of home. There are more than a couple of restaurants serving Indian cuisine but the smartest of them all, and significantly serving an authentic spread, is the relatively-new Indian Spice (Vista Magnifica Court). From your favourite butter-chicken to panner tikka, saag-meat to fluffy basmati rice and crisp rotis it’s delectable fare and presented with style. It’s centrally located and deliciously-close to the waterfront.

8 Portuguese sweet treats: With the best being reserved for the last, this has to be devoted to the delectable range of desserts and pastries found on the island. Topping the charts is fresh-from-the-oven Pastel de Nata or the classic Portuguese egg tart with creamy custard filling in buttery pastry shells served with a sprinkling of cinnamon and powdered sugar. Blissful! Do believe me when I say, you cannot eat just one. While the more famous outlets are Lord Stow’s Bakery (in Coloane) and Margaret’s Cafe e Nata (Kam Loi building, near Hotel Sintra), it’s available at the many outlets of Koi Kei Bakery (at Senado Square and around town).  Amongst the must-try Portuguese deserts are the awfully-simple but delectable Serradura, flavoursome Stewed Apple, or any of the traditional egg yolk-based puddings: Doce de Ovos, Papos de anjo, Barrigas de freira or Toucinho do ceu. These were also known as convent sweets having originally been created in Portugal by nuns, who would starch their habits with the white of the egg and have huge amounts of yolks leftover!  

Published in JetWings International, Oct 2012

Call of the Chinars

 http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/article3808002.ece 

Staying options: Nedou’s, Gulmarg (www.nedoushotels.com): Over a century old, it's quaint, quirky and immensely charming.  Pahalgam Hotel, Pahalgam (www.pahalgamhotel.com): Conveniently located on the main road and by the lovely River Lidder it's aesthetic and elegant. Dastan (www.dastanhouseboat.com) & New Gulistan Palace (www.newgulistanpalace.com), Srinagar: Tastefully furnished, these boats of the Guru family are in a peaceful edge of the Dal Lake and provide unrestricted view of the scenic mountainscape 

Published in Hindu Business Line, September 2012 

Hotel Review: JW Marriott, Chandigarh

I step into a pleasant lobby, wonderfully radiant with natural light streaming in through large windows. The high ceiling catches my attention instantly as does the informal seating arrangement. A quirky metal sculpture dresses up the main wall and a 3D painting in amber hues adds cheer behind the front desk. I find an aesthetic flow between spaces with the lobby seamlessly merging into the lounge and deli-patisserie. It’s chic, it’s contemporary and until JW Marriott arrived here a year back this is the international experience Chandigarh was missing.  

The open layout creates a welcoming ambience. That's besides the chilled shikanjavi I'm served in a kulad as a welcome drink! There's something invigorating about this homegrown earthenware, especially on a hot summer day, and it’s one of the many illustrations of the brand’s concept to let current and classical (Indian) run hand in hand on the property. 

Design

JW Marriott belongs to Marriott International’s luxury portfolio. In keeping with its worldwide theme of sophisticated indulgence for the self-assured traveller, subtle grandeur greets the eye at every turn. That apart, the notion of incorporating a local element is clearly visible: Chandigarh’s Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s linear-layout outlook and his classic bronze plaque replicas judiciously blend into the interior design.  

There’s enough space for all reasons, with the property boasting of the city’s largest banquet-conference facilities. This includes its distinctive ‘Living Room’; casual, modish, and meant for small meetings, it’s based on the model of NY apartments with open kitchen, lounge and foyer.  

The hotel makes up for its lack of offering picturesque sights — and this is a very green city — by concentrating on its interiors and creating a soothing effect wherever possible. Towards the rear of the lobby the outdoor seating by a water body is a perfect example. One of the loveliest spots is the roof-top swimming pool and deck, which allows an aerial view of the vicinity that’s particularly appealing around the evening.

Rooms

The 164-room property includes four luxury and one splendid presidential suite. I had checked-in on the executive level and my room like all others was styled in marble-wood and its large dimensions packed in state-of-the-art conveniences. Surprisingly, though, furnishing appeared tad jaded for a year-old star property. Some design issues, as the oddly-placed en suite bathroom door lock, also needed correction. I was assured these niggles were being rectified.   The nice part about staying on the sixth floor was the access to the tasteful executive lounge. Elsewhere, among other indulgences, I thought the telly above the bath-tub in the luxury suite spelt utter relaxation.    

 

Spa 

For other ways of rejuvenation, there was the signature Quan Spa. Refreshingly minimal in decor, it was an oasis of tranquillity. Therapies here were a mix of massages, scrubs, and facials, using aroma oils, fruit and marine extracts. Merely reading the menu was a stress-buster and once I'd been through the unusual Aquarelle Face Treatment that uses live cells of algae, I felt wholly revitalised. Interestingly, Quan means ‘spring water’, and therapies are designed to extract its restorative qualities.

Cuisine

If way to a guest's heart is through the stomach, the Mezzanine is where unlimited flavours converge to do precisely that. There's a trio of restaurants here: The Cafe @JW, an all-day dining popular for its sumptuous buffets and Asian cuisine; Saffron, the classy Indian fine-dining; and Oregano, the trattoria-style Italian restaurant and bar. There’s also Whisky 111, an exclusive bar offering a selection of the finest single malts and vintages. Culinary operations are lead by executive chef Pallav Singhal, whose enthusiasm ensures menus are always sparkling with something new.

A ravioli promotion was on and I chose to dine at the friendly Oregano. Over a watermelon refresher, basket of appetising Italian breads and robust antipasti, Chef Singhal steered conversation. As we spoke ceaselessly on, well, gastronomy, expat chef Antonello Cancedda presented an attractive gourmet spread. The delicately-balanced Pumpkin Ravioli with amaretti-butter-sage whet the taste-buds to be followed by equally-flavoursome Asparagus-potato ravioli with white truffle oil and Openface ravioli with smoked chicken- thyme- Mascarpone cheese. With breads and pasta being prepared fresh this truly was a slice of authentic Italian away from Italy. So fulfilling was it that the main course was skipped but certainly not the dolci or dessert options of Panna-cotta alla grappa and Tiramisu tradizionale. An outstanding affogato rounded-off a scrumptiously-Marriott experience. 

  

At a glance

WHAT: Five star property 

WHERE: Sector 35B, Chandigarh 160035 

www.marriott.com Tele: 0172-3955555

COST: Begins at Rs 15,000 (rack rate) 

VERDICT: Business-luxury hotel very centrally located

Published: ITTP, 2012

For ore stories: http://indiatoday.intoday.in/author/Brinda-Suri/1.html

Norbulingka, Sidhpur, Himachal

                               To read the article, right click and select the top option: Open link in new tab

North East India glossary

You’ve visited the Seven Sisters and believe you know them well. Here’s an alpha-zee glossary picked from the splendid salver of sounds, sights, fragrances and tastes of the rousing northeast. Go ahead, test yourself! And those of you still unfamiliar with the terrific terrain, acquaint yourself.

Ahom: It’s the erstwhile name of Assam, the latter being an anglicized version of the original. Kamarupa and Pragjyotisha have been some other names. Chaolung Sukapha (AD 1228 –1268), also known as  Siu-Ka-Pha, a prince from the Shan province in present-day Eastern Myanmar and Northern Thailand, arrived here and founded the kingdom of Ahom, extending its frontiers to most of current northeast India. The Ahoms introduced wet rice cultivation which transformed the region. In the medieval town of Sivasagar is Rang Ghar, considered Asia’s first amphitheatre, and an architectural highlight of the Ahom era. Over a decade ago the state began celebrating December 2 as Sukapha Divas or Assam Day.  

Bhot jolokia: This Naga/Assamese chili sprinted its way to global fame as the world’s hottest chilli (a title it surrendered to Naga Viper pepper last year). While ‘Bhot’ classifies anything originating in the Bhotiya hills (bordering Bhutan), ‘jolokia’ is the Assamese term for chili-pepper. It’s also known as the Naga jolokia and Raja mirch. Urban legend says it can be used to make the world’s first non-toxic hand-grenade!

Chakhao Amubi: Literally translated it means ‘scented-rice black’. This aromatic, blackish grain is characteristic to Manipuri cuisine and when prepared as the typical rice pudding it turns a lovely deep purple.   

Dobu-Thung: This ‘decorated mug’ in bamboo is made by the Chang tribe of Nagaland. The design is painstakingly created by singeing the bamboo.  According to custom, only head-hunters (the real McCoys, not your corporate honchos, them) had the exclusive right to use these; now it’s an item of luxury. Amongst tribe-members, the mugs are usually sold via barter by the artisan and the exchange can be as much as 20 kg rice or more.   

Eri: Assam’s warm, thick yet soft, enduring silk. ‘Eri’ is a derivative of ‘eranda’, the Assamese word for castor, as worms (Samia cynthia ricini) producing this silk feed on the castor plant. Also called endi or errandi silk, it’s considered ‘ahimsa’/’green’ silk, as, for the production of eri the worm is not killed.

Fishing Baskets: Apart from textile weaving, basketry is an evolved craft in the northeast. Usually made in checker, twilled, plaiting, twining and hexagonal patterns, baskets are used for storage, daily purchases and in the fields. Interestingly, each area has a variety of fishing baskets. Paikur used in Mizoram is a bottle-shaped cane basket with a conical spike at the mouth, allowing the fish to enter but not exit. In Nagaland, lithuo, a square fishing tray is preferred. Tripura too uses something similar known as the dula while Assam makes the circular chepa with bamboo.   

Gwa-che: A dance form of the Yobin/Lisu tribe of Arunachal. The tribe, which migrated from China a few centuries ago, annually holds a bizarre event: festival of knife-ladder climbing.

Hozagiri: Tripura’s traditional dance performed by svelte girls of the Reang community. It’s a combination of gentle acrobatic acts and slow, rhythmic hip and waist movements. Quite remarkably the dance is done standing on pitchers.

Idu: Arunachal has 26 recognised tribes spread over approximately 3,650 villages. One of them is the Idus, who are conspicuous for their hair style. Both men and women let hair fall over the forehead and trim it a little above the eyebrows, the appearance being similar to the currently-in-fashion bungs.

Jonbeel of Jagiroad: Jonbeel reportedly is the only fair in the country where sale-purchase is solely through the barter system. A three-day annual event of the Tiwa tribe, it’s held in January at Jagiroad, near Guwahati. The fair dates back to AD 1400, to the kingdom of Tiwa. Customarily, it’s inaugurated by the ‘Tiwa king’ who also collects a nominal ‘tax’ from his subjects. Tribes from neighbouring states also attend. 

Kha Khadduh: An expression used for the youngest daughter in the matrilineal Khasi and Jaintia tribes. She is heir to the property and among her responsibilities is taking care of her parents.  

Lai-Haraoba: A popular Manipuri event, the week-long Lai Haroba or ‘Festival of the Deities’ celebrates legends on the creation of the universe. Held in April-May, it’s a vibrant cultural expression of the state’s religious, dance and music traditions.

Moirang: Is a town 45 km from the Manipur capital Imphal, and the region of the Meitei tribe. Notably, it played a role in India’s freedom movement, with the Indian National Army unfurling its flag, a precursor of the Tricolour, here for the first time on April 14, 1944. The area is naturally pretty, and offers the Loktak Lake, the largest fresh-water lake in the northeast.

Ningthou phee: A particular snake motif woven on the phanek (Manipuri wrap-around) exclusively for royalty. Legend says, when a weaver would begin work on the ningthou phee, a gun salute would be fired in the royal design’s honour.  

Orang Chariali: Known as mini-Kaziranga, it’s the little cousin of the big brother, but shares similar boast as far as its animal kingdom line-up is concerned. The one-horned rhinoceros, Asian elephant, tiger, leopard, barking deer, all roam its grasslands. It’s 31 km from Tezpur in the Darrang district of Assam.

Puan: Mizoram’s sarongs, these are fêted for their intricate weaving done typically on the loin loom. Tucked away Mizoram’s Sahia district,   bordering Myanmar is said to be the prettiest in the region and is renowned for the exquisite weaving of the Mara tribe.

Queen: She’s the sweetest among the three varieties of pineapple abundantly growing in the northeast and justifiably called the ‘Queen’. The other two are Kew and Giant. However, pineapples from the prized Hmarkhawlien region of Assam’s Cachar district are said to be the sweetest in India. The fruit is an economy booster in the northeast and Manipur honours it by hosting the Pineapple Festival. Tynrong in Meghalaya’s East Khasi hills is a centre for pineapple craft, particularly Sohmarih fibre. 

Riha: Part of the traditional ensemble of Assamese women. The mekhela-chadar (sador)-riha tri-set is apparently a hybrid of Tibetan and Indian costumes. The mekhela is similar to the saree albeit worn from waist to ankle, while the chadar and riha are wrapped around the upper-half of the body

Siliguri Corridor:  If you’ve travelled by road or train to the North-East this has been the connect cord to the region. Also called ‘Chicken's Neck’, it’s a strip of land around Siliguri town, in north Bengal, flanked by Nepal and Bangladesh. The Siliguri Corridor was created during the 1947 Partition.   

Thang Ta: An ancient Manipuri martial art, it exhibits the prowess of sword and spear. In times gone by it was known as Huyen Lallong.

Ukhrul black pottery: Recognised locally as Nungbi earthenware, it’s characteristic to the Tangkhul tribe of Ukhrul district in Manipur. Made with a powdered soft rock only available in the area, it’s crafted by hand and not on the potter's wheel. The final product is shiny, naturally black pottery, now widely seen at handcraft fairs. 

Venus: A globally-rare ground orchid found in Arunachal and Sikkim. It belongs to the Paphiopedilum species or the Lady's Slipper orchid variety and falls under Schedule VI of the Wildlife (Protection) Act owing to its endangered status. About 1, 150 species of orchids are found in India, with Arunachal accounting for almost 600 species, making it the country’s Orchid Paradise.

Wangala: It’s the ‘Dance of Hundred Drums’ festival, an important date in the calendar of Meghalaya’s Garo hills. The week-long festival held in November is celebrated in honour of Satyong, the god of fertility, and indicates the end of sowing season and prayers for a bumper harvest.

Xorai: A perforated metal bowl on stand with pagoda-like lid used for ceremonial offerings in Assam. Along with the gamosa (traditional woven white towel with red stylized end-patterns) and tamulpan (supari on betel leaf) the trio is typical to Assamese celebrations. The japi or traditional bamboo sun-shade is the other widely-recognised symbol of the state.

Yulo: A festival of the Nishi tribe of Arunachal. It's held for community wellbeing and includes the sacrifice of mithuns. The Bangani tribe also celebrates the festival and they commence it by offering rice beer to their deities, Doni Yulo and Kamio Yulo. It’s held around March-April.

Zutho: Sprouted rice beer typical to Nagaland. It has a fruity aroma and sour taste. Among other drinks in the region, apong, brewed from millet and rice, is popular in Arunachal.

Published in JetWings