Baltic amber and more

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The Visegrad Four or V4 is an alliance, dating back to 1991, between Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia for socio-economic cooperation. The union was formed at a summit meeting held in the Hungarian castle town of Visegrád, thus its eponymous name. Historically, the four Central European countries have always been part of the same civilization. Today, despite speaking four different languages and having diverse traditions there is a thread of similarity running through them. 

I found my visit to the Visegrad Four culturally enriching. With history and art sharing prime space, walking the streets felt akin to being in a museum. The high-end craft here was exquisite and I learnt this was one the regions of Europe where artists created masterpieces and pampered the lavish lifestyle of aristocracy and royalty from around the world, the Maharajas of Mysore and Patiala included. Here's a pick from the scintillating spread. 

Baltic amber

Almost everyone who goes to Poland comes back with a bit of amber. Considered as precious as gemstones, amber actually is hard, translucent resin found on fossilised coniferous trees. Its colour ranges from white to its most common hue: dark brownish-orange; recall the amber on traffic signals.

Once upon a time amber used to be as cheap as pebbles, no longer though, with Baltic supplies diminishing. But Poland remains synonymous with the resin and visitors throng retail outlets, loving looking at lampshades, trinket boxes, cutlery and jewellery all hand-crafted with amber. I was visiting the historic city of Krakow, southern Poland, and found the quaint Sukiennice, in the Main Market Square, a delightful spot to browse around. As the supply of raw amber shrinks, amber artisans in Poland have turned sophisticated with their designs. Gone are the days when huge amber chunks were worn as jewellery or used in decorations. Today's fare incorporates a lot more sterling silver than amber but the craftsmanship and quality of product is classy.

And just in case you thought the insect embedded in the amber pendant your friend had on was a reject, be aware that it's considered unique and a symbol of being the real thing.

Modra ceramic

In the town of Modra, about 25 km from Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, you can see shop-windows dressed with prettily-designed ceramic ware. This is no ordinary product but one of the most well-known symbols of Slovakian culture.

Created in typical shades of royal blue or bright yellow on a creamy-white base, the pottery has an appealing rustic tone about it and can be found in almost every Slovakian home. Popularly known as Modra ceramic and dating back to the 14th century, hand-painted floral patterns is its distinguishing element. Other motifs include cups, decanters, grapevines or the Christian Cross, and these were meant to depict various trades. A decanter made for a vineyard owner, for example, would have a grapevine. 

The most common and much-sought after shape is the wall-plate (some of these are available with gently-latticed borders), besides which vases, jugs, bells, baskets and tableware items are other fast-movers. The town of Modra has painstakingly preserved the tradition of hand-painted ceramic, making it one of its kind in Slovakia.  

Herend porcelain

This indeed is dishware fit for the kings. The Windsor Castle orders from here and so does the Spanish royal family. Presidents as Kennedy and Regan have sipped tea in it and so have stars like Celine Dion and Harrison Ford. It's called Hungarian 'white gold' and the reason is simple: only the finest porcelain goes into its manufacturing, pure gold is used to dress it up, and most exclusively, each item available on its shelf is hand-painted. Founded in 1826, Herend Porcelain ranks among the largest hand-painted ceramic manufacturers in the world. Situated in the town of Herend in Veszperm county, its on-site Porcelain Museum has a brilliant display of designs down the ages. The complete process of creating the pieces of art can also be viewed. The museum tour ends with a cup of tea or coffee served in signature Herned ware, making the beverage more special.

Herend patterns have been known for their elegance. One of its classic designs is the 'Victoria pattern', with Oriental-style flowers and butterflies, and legend goes that it was named after Queen Victoria who in 1851 ordered a dinner-set bearing this award-winning motif. Recently, to commemorate the birth of Prince George, son of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, William and Kate, Herend has produced a limited edition table-set comprising a bowl, plate, cup, fairy tooth box and a shoe. The set is adorned with a tweaked version of the Victoria pattern in shades of lilac, and is all set to become the next best-seller.

If exquisiteness needed an illustration, Herend is that example. It's almost within reach of you and me, provided we are ready to spend close to Rs 10,000 for a cup-saucer. It's an indulgence and, yes, worth it.

Bohemia crystal and glass

The Bohemia region in present day Czech Republic has always been known for its cutting edge glass manufacturing. Its history goes back to the 13th century when glassmakers stumbled upon a formula that made glass stronger than that being produced elsewhere. Connoisseurs hailed it and Bohemia glass and crystal firmly arrived on the global map never to look back. Prague is ranked among art capitals of Europe and the glass industry is one of its crown jewels. A variety of techniques are involved in creating fine glassware and highly skilled artists work round the year to produce some of the best vases, chandeliers, crockery etc that hold pride of place in homes around the globe. Glass and crystal with cut-work, enamel, litho prints of popular artists and reverse glass painting are Czech areas of expertise.

Moser is a leading name in Czech glass manufacturing, known for its lead-free products and one-of-its-kind coloured glassware. I would recommend a visit to its signature store, housed in a lovely old building, in Pargue.

But how do you distinguish between glass and crystal glass? The basic test: Hold up the object to light. If its glass behaves as a prism and shows you rainbow colours it’s crystal glass. If not, you’re holding plain glass! And did you know, if you run a wet finger on the rim of a crystal glass it produces a musical tone. Test it, get it.  

Published Nov 2013  

Balatonfured: Tagore-Hungary love story

Lake Balaton in Hungary is Central Europe’s largest freshwater lake

I almost thought the glossy Hungarian Tourism brochure was custom-written for our visiting Indian group. The introduction to the country began by quoting a celebrated Indian writer-poet. “I have seen almost all the countries of the world but I saw nowhere such a beautiful harmony of the sky and the water than that I had the privilege to enjoy on the shore of Balatonfured filling my soul with rapture.” It was Rabindranath Tagore who had famously said this while visiting Hungary and it’s been a favourite quotable-quote, now happily used by their tourism industry. As an Indian I was overwhelmed at the honour accorded to one of our own and Balatonfured, the town Tagore had poetically admired, had to be on my itinerary.

Balaton is Central Europe’s largest freshwater lake, the sheer vastness giving it the fitting sobriquet of ‘Hungarian Sea’. By this lakeside stands Balatonfured, a charming all-season town and weekend destination. A host of adventure activities, including yachting and ice skating add to its popularity quotient. It’s here that Tagore arrived in October 1926, not as a tourist but a patient.

He had been invited to Budapest for a poetry-reading convention and its gruelling schedule is said to have taken a toll on his health. Doctor advice brought him to Balatonfured’s State Heart Hospital, where he spent a few weeks on his way to recovery.

On a pleasant evening I arrive in the town. It’s tranquil, pretty, and has that comforting coastal air. A string of lakeside shops are selling Hungarian souvenirs, and they prefer the local currency forint over the euro. Someone’s trying his hand at the accordion. A trio of elders and children are enjoying feeding ducks. A young man is being taught the art of angling. Don Williams’ ‘It’s gotta be magic’ is playing in the background and the endearing bass-baritone truly adds magic to the town’s merry mood.

An etching of Tagore's  verse and its Hungarian translation

My interest lies in Tagore and soon I’m standing beside his sculpted bust, installed under the linden tree he is said to have planted. It’s in an open garden parallel to another dedication to him: the leafy Tagore Setany (promenade) running along the banks of Lake Balaton. In the garden I notice saplings planted by the who’s who of Indian politics. There’s Digvijaya Singh, his Opposition colleague Sushma Swaraj and a host of others. It’s Gurudev who’s brought them all here and shrunk the distance between Balatonfured and Delhi. A few metres from the promenade, across the quiet Gyogy Ter (square), is the heart hospital where he was treated. Here, too, the Nobel laureate’s memory has been lovingly preserved and Room no. 220, I’m told, has been designated the status of Tagore memorial and still carries his nameplate. Its interiors too have been left as were.

The sun’s dipped and as I move towards the lake’s pier — its entry guarded by two striking sculptures of the Fisherman and the Ferryman — all I can see is the vastness of blissful blue. The water and sky blur to create a harmonious, painterly dome. I stand mesmerised. I realise I’ve experienced my Tagore moment!

Over 800 years old, Balatonfured shows influences of Roman and Ottoman conquests, and walking through town acquaints me with architectural gems. One of these is the Kerektemplom or Round Church, from the middle of the 19th century, in neo-classical style. As I wander I come across another dedication to India. As chance would have it, Hungarian-Indian painter Amrita Sher-Gil’s retrospective is on view at Vaszary Kavezo, an elegant villa from the Reform Era that’s now an arts centre. It’s for the first time I’m viewing original works and memorabilia associated with the painter. I learn she lived a vivacious life. A quote by her — an extract from a letter to her friend — stays with me: “I can only paint in India. Europe belongs to Picasso, Matisse, Braque… India belongs only to me.”

A retrospective of Hungarian-Indian artist
Amrita Sher-Gil at the Vaszary Kavezo art centre

Quite distinctively, Balatonfured is among those few places in the world that have been a spa destination for centuries. The reputed healing qualities of its carbonated spring waters have since early-1700 cured many an affair of the heart and soul! In 1971 it was officially declared the country’s first health resort-town and year-through attracts visitors from around the globe. Hungary boasts over a thousand hot springs. “Earth’s history is mystery,” tour guide Andras Vereckei begins in his deep voice. “The geological features of the Carpathian Basin have made the earth’s shell very thin, resulting in waters rising easily to the surface,” he explains, adding, “The local yarn says, push a stick into the ground anywhere in Hungary and curative water would spring through!” I give myself a health boost by sipping a bit of the famed natural spring water from the Kossuth Lajos drinking hall on Gyogy Ter. The taste is acidic.

What makes Balatonfured further unique is its micro-climate. Known as the Land of Triple Sunshine, it’s believed the warmth emanates from the sun, the sunlight reflected by the water and the core of the earth. This favourable temperature has made it Hungary’s top wine-producing region and fetched it the title of International Town of Grapes and Wine in 1987.

Hilltop restaurants of wineries serve local specialities and offer unrivalled views of the shimmering lake beyond the verdant vineyards. The Szent Donat cellar-restaurant at Csopak village is one of the best in business and this is where I spent a lovely evening, attending a wine-tasting session, relishing a fare of goat cheese salad, pasta, and a typical Hungarian dessert of sweet quark cheese dumpling. I’m not a wine person and the quenchers that get my vote were the outstanding lavender and elderberry cordials. The subtlety of flavours was excellent and a perfect wrap to an enriching day spent by the shores of the Balaton.

(Published on October 10, 2013 in The Hindu Business Line)

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/weekend-life/a-tagorehungary-love-story/article5221033.ece

Koh Samui airport

There's a businesslike air about airports around the world. They are spankingly-immaculate, plush, tech-savvy, exude feverish energy and most have no-nonsense security drills. You feel the need to look spruced and alert when you walk their corridors. Koh Samui, in Thailand, is different. It's cute! Yes, that's an adjective rarely associated with airports. But Koh Samui then is a non-airport airport. It almost seems plucked out of a fairytale.

A popular island in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Samui is located in the country's southern part, and the airport is its show-window, swinging you into a buoyant mood almost immediately on arrival. So forget that gelled look; instead tousled hair and rolled up shirt sleeves is par for the course here.

 Officially known as Samui International Airport, the moment the aircraft touches ground it seems one has directly flown into a five-star resort. Lush and utterly pretty, its design puts aside all stereotypes of an airport. No steel and glitz here, instead there are landscaped greens—a profusion of the beautiful orchid too—and minimal construction which seamlessly blends with the picturesque tropical surrounding. Nothing overwhelming, all very welcoming.

 That the airport does things differently is noticed immediately on disembarking when the apron shuttle turns out to be a cheerful, open-air vehicle, resembling mini-trains found at fairs! Brightly painted multi-seater electric cars, akin to golf carts, are another option. This wonderful toyland impression continues while proceeding towards the arrival gate. The compact built area here is a series of sloping thatched roofs held by pillars and incredibly no walls. Flushed with natural light it comes across as a free-flowing space which in itself is a stress-buster. Customs clearance and baggage collection is a friendly and swift affair but you would want to linger on to let the eyes feast a little more on the artistic glass and wood architecture.

 The return flight gives you more time to enjoy the dainty airport. The departure terminal has informally arranged, brightly-cushioned cane seating, almost seeming like a personal living room. The bathrooms are spic with attractive fish tanks being a major element of their decor. An irresistible feature of the international departure gate is a 'courtesy corner' which provides scrumptious snacks and drinks on the house in a snug sitting area. Awaiting boarding is never such a joy, for what more do you need when food and beverage is unlimited and there's efficient wi-fi too. It all gets so cosy that the flight arrival announcement seems a bother.

The staff is polite to a fault and their aim is to let you relax. Even as you immerse yourself in a book or watch the telly, it’s the ground stewards who come around to your seat to check boarding passes. A small shopping arcade is another attraction and so is the opportunity to enjoy one more Thai massage before exiting the island at the extremely relaxing spa adjacent to the café, where nimble fingers work their magic in easing out body knots.

It’s no surprise to hear that Samui airport has been ranked amongst the most beautiful in the world a number of times. It’s won a clutch of design awards too and figures as a top favourite among travellers around the globe. 

This is an example of tropical paradise. It’s a wonder that places like this are conceptualised; where the fast pace of cutting-edge technology exists within mesmerisingly-serene contours. If you do get an opportunity, fly into Koh Samui, the airport should be reason enough! 

Published in TimeOut, April 2013  

Handicraft: Dhokra, Chattisgarh

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Published in Deccan Herald, Jan 27, 2013 

Bandhavgarh: Forest Trump

It was a balmy winter afternoon — sunny blue skies, a slight nip and air filled with birdsong, just perfect for the lovely picnic lunch we were relishing at the gloriously-leafy Bandhavadheesh Temple grounds inside the ruins of the Bandhavgarh Fort. We had trekked up here and the tranquility around the temple's lime-washed structure and lush environs called for a breather.

We were busy tucking into our sandwiches when a langur call pierced the calm. Questioningly we looked towards our guide who nonchalantly said, "Were it a tiger the call would have had urgency." On cue the temple priest remarked, "A tigress had come by yesterday. She was marking territory. She may be around." Silence descended over our group. The sandwiches suddenly lost taste. It took the chirpiest among us to voice concern. “If a tiger does turn up what we do," she innocently questioned. The guide casually said, "Nothing. What can you do in front of a tiger?" Our friend was alarmed. "I'm newly married! I have to get home! Do we have to trek down a path with the threat of a tiger looming large?" We tried suppressing our grins, but the guide couldn’t, as he declared, “Legend says if you offer prayers at this  temple, a tiger never attacks." Faith has its ways of being restorative. Our friend was convinced. She quickly ran to appease the gods a second time and returned with a big smile back on her pretty face. 

There are not too many tiger reserves where mythology, history, wildlife and the joys of picnicking sumptuously blend. It's this unusual combination that makes Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh such a treat to explore. 

Legends and lore

A spectacular blend of the Vindhya hills, deciduous forest, an enchanting valley meadow and a dominating plateau, this park provides one of the most well-preserved environment for tigers. Bandhavgarh has its sets of legends too. There are legends of gods and chieftains from times ancient. The legends of Medieval kings and poets. And of course the contemporary legends of Sita, Charger and their son B2... tigers who ruled these grasslands as only regal monarchs can. Each being as engrossing as only legends can.  

The story goes, the fort atop the plateau was built by Lord Rama for younger brother Lakshman with an aim of keeping vigil over Lanka. Yes, Rama's Lanka was supposed to be somewhere in Central India, so believe several history-keepers. As the fort was meant for a brother, it simply began being known such; bandhav, or bandhu as it was called earlier, referring to brother and garh meaning fort. The Bandhavadheesh Temple, where we were receiving these lessons in history, was dedicated to the worship of the reigning deity of these jungles: Lord Lakshman and the name Bandhavgarh has stayed since.

Though no specific history of Bandhavgarh Fort is available, it's assumed to be over 2,500 years old and had remained a stronghold during miscellaneous dynastic rules. Its recorded evidence dates to the 13th century when Baghela Rajputs, hailing from present-day Gujarat region, made Bandhavgarh their focus and controlled territory from the fort. That was until 1617 AD when the Baghela king moved his capital to the more-central Rewa. The fort lay abandoned for close to a century aiding in the escalation of flora-fauna around Bandhavgarh. Its tiger population grew impressively which attracted successive Baghelas, known by then as the Maharajas of Rewa, to make it their hunting preserve. It remained such till 1968 AD when it was declared a national park.

Sonnets in stone

Each of these dynasties left their imprint in stone and during our trek of Bandhavgarh Fort we walked amid striking reminders of a remarkable past. Of the colossal rock-cut sculptures — most considered 10th century art — the 18 ft high Narasimha was awe-inspiring while Sheshshaiya or Lord Vishnu reclining on a seven-hooded serpent was overwhelming. There was the friendly-looking Kachchap, a rock-cut turtle, said to be the largest of its kind in the country. A lot of other sculptures lay carelessly in the open, which in some way added to their attraction.

During the Baghela rule the 16th century poet-saint Kabir is thought to have meditated for several years at Bandhavgarh Fort and there was a temple, lake and cave dedicated to him. There were a number of lakes around the fort which translated into watering holes and as we tread the area the guide pointed to markings of various fauna. A set of pugmarks got us excited and we hoped for an adventurous sighting. That, though, was to happen later.  

The tiger trail
It’s said you’re lucky if you spot the striped beauties in other parks and really unlucky if you don’t spot it in Bandhavgarh! That evening Lady Luck was our pal.

In the initial phase of our three-hour evening safari we relished verdant views picturesquely backlit by a setting sun and tried decoding jungle calls. At times the green kingdom’s amiable inhabitants — langur, neelgai, sambhar — would allow a photo-op but The King himself remained elusive. Time was almost running out, when a passing jeep mentioned a sighting.

Our driver turned the vehicle around and raced. This was the moment we were here for. The environs were a blur as we flew to the designated spot, where a crowd of jeeps had already collected. An anticipatory silence followed. Seconds were ticking by slowly and heart-beats were rapid. Will we? Won’t we?

Suddenly there was a rustle and in a flash emerged B2, then the ageing monarch of these jungles. Cameras clicked and visitors exclaimed but unflustered by it all B2 ambled past our jeeps, almost at arm’s length. He was a King in control. He was majestic! A few seconds is all we got to savour before he vanished into the jungle but he had awarded us an experience of a life-time.

It was my first sighting of an untamed tiger and it will always be cherished. More so, as B2 passed away a few months later (in November 2011). And a nation grieved. Such was his charisma. His legend, though, lives on like many more in Bandhavgarh.

Published in TimeOut Explorer, Jan-Feb 2013 issue