Quebec: Conversations with the old and new

Friendly and French, that’s Quebec City. It pleasantly erases all stereotypical a la Francaise notions. And even as it conveys being proud of its lineage --- also asserts the fact of bring the ‘largest French-speaking metropolitan area in the English-speaking world’ --- it subtly informs it’s different and free-spirited and should be perceived that way, merci beacoup.

If I were to pick a city from my recent trip to the Canadian East Coast, Quebec would make it to the top. A charming little world in itself — in fact a perfect illustration for the word quaint —it’s an attractive blend of nouveau and vieux (old) cultures. There’s a sense of constant cheer and the sort of bonhomie found in well-knit societies; the reason some Quebecers often adoringly refer to their city as a “big, small town” essentially highlighting the warmth it exudes.

Samuel de Champlain, a French diplomat, now remembered as ‘The Father of New France’ founded Quebec in AD 1608. Perched on a cape, it overlooks St Lawrence River, which in effect has contributed to the city’s name, the origin of ‘Quebec’ having been traced to the native word ‘kebec’, meaning ‘where the waters narrow’.

Of all spots, Quebec’s Old Town, a Unesco world heritage site, is definitely the city’s calling card. This is where I stayed to discover its engaging lanes and bylanes in the best way one can: on foot. The only fortified city in North America, it’s divided into Upper Town (Haute-Ville) and Lower Town (Basse-Ville), with a layout so compact that it makes almost everything accessible in a few minutes. However, exploring it took me a long-long while, as I was constantly pausing and gazing with virtually all places within the Old Town – hotels, restaurants, shops or cafes, managing to delight the senses.

At first glance, what makes any city look good or bad are its structures, and in that respect it’s often said there are few cities in Canada which can boast of architecture as diverse as Quebec. The city’s edifices are distinctly French and English in character but what makes them vibrant are their assorted architectural styles. Built in stone, they are brightened with cheery windows, doors and roofs adding a hamlet temperament to town. 

I began my city excursion from Place Royale in Lower Town, the showpiece of Quebec and the site where Champlain and his people originally settled. This cobblestone square has pretty 400-year-old residences/offices that have been converted into hip touristy shops. Around it are historic sites as the Notre Dame des Victoires Church (AD 1687) and the strikingly-realistic Quebec City Mural, a fresco of the city’s founders done on the side-wall of a five storey building. The wall is a spot for tourists to indulge in some trick photography as they stand in front of the mural and blend with the painted characters.

A few steps away is the sparkling Quartier du Petit-Champlain, considered the oldest shopping district in the continent. Here I found Rue du Petit-Champlain, a narrow cobbled street an absolute gem of a place to stroll. Almost boutique-like in appeal it was dotted with bistros, exclusive lifestyle stores, musicians playing the harp, someone singing a ballad and a collection of people all having fun. I haven’t seen Europe but “it’s so European” is an expression I often heard while browsing here. A perfect place to pick up souvenirs or to relax at a cafe and enjoy the ambience, it was a street I came back to whenever I had a little time on hand!

At the head of Rue Petit-Champlain is a funiculaire that runs up to Upper Town, and travelling in this ‘cable car on rails’ is a must-do. The funiculaire opens on to Terrasse Dufferin, a promenade offering scenic views of St Lawrence River besides having an expansive monument of Champlain. As expected it’s a popular spot and usually has a band of performing artistes, musicians, painters entertaining the crowds. It was no different when I visited it on a very windy- chilly-rainy day, the weather not being a deterrent for enjoyment. I’m not used to such chill and escaped into one of the nice-looking shops nearby to warm myself. 

Just across the Terrasse, and dominating the prominent line-up of buildings in Quebec, is the overwhelming Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. Definitely the most dramatic landmark of the city, its castle-like architecture replete with turrets clearly lord’s over Quebec’s skyline and reportedly is the most photographed hotel in the world. As I stepped into this iconic place it felt as if time had rewound to a few centuries. Impeccably maintained, an experience of Quebec remains incomplete without a visit here. The hotel offers a tour of its property (for a fee) and adds a little drama by having your group guide dressed as a character from the past.

Another eye-catching section of the city which stood out for its colossal Victorian architecture was Parliament Hill. However, amongst all places of tourist interest, one that touches an emotional chord for local Quebecers is the Plains of Abraham. This is the site of the decisive AD 1759 war in which the British defeated France and annexed Quebec, writing a chapter of history that still rankles the populace and leads to voices demanding autonomous rights of governance. The battle is an episode of history that’s not likely to be forgotten and is clearly reflected in their motto: ‘Je me Souviens’ or ‘Yes I remember’. All vehicle number-plates carry that maxim, as a constant reminder, even as Quebec wakes up to a new day.

A weekend in Quebec is just enough to do a quick round of its spots. Beyond that there are theatre shows, cruises, adventure et al to revel in. Soon winter fests will unravel lots more. And as it gets colder Hotel de Glace, the famous ice hotel, will show a new way to experience winter.

Factfile:

Getting in: Air Canada and Delta fly into Quebec City

Getting around: To commute between Upper and Lower towns take the stairs or the funiculaire. Electric buses also ply frequently. Quebec tourism offers a ‘city passport’, a booklet that has discount vouchers on fee to monuments, museums, transportation etc.

Accommodation: The two best options are: Hilton Quebec (www.hiltonquebec.com) that offers splendid panoramic views of town and Château Frontenac Hotel (www.fairmont.com/frontenac) that stands on the foundation of history. 

Published in Deccan Herald

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/129483/conversations-old-new.html

Kalpa

On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner range, appearing to be touching distance away 

When summers scorch the plains the prospect of running away to the mountains soothes. But it’s the thought of finding snow that tantalises, and how. A mission comes into focus. Bragging rights garner attention and animated conversation revolves around swirls of white, flakes of white and sheets of white. Schedules are made and aborted, till one fine day the smug white heat outside the door unbearably appears in sharp contrast to the white the mind has warmed up to. In the titanic clash of whites, one is the expected winner, and plans get firmed to finally set-out. If life’s joys lie in small things, chasing snow in summer is the god of small things.

Some mountains roads overtime have come to acquire cult status. Amidst that line-up are a few which qualify as classics on the sheer strength of name. The Hindustan-Tibet Road is one among those. Though officially stripped of that aura and austerely referred to as National Highway or NH 22, nothing has altered its charm for the traveller for whom it still promises the heady romance associated with surface voyages of yore. This highway, an accomplishment of perseverance in itself, runs through the heart of Kinnaur, one of the prettiest regions of Himachal, and apart from quenching the thirst for adventure leads to sun and snow locales, certainly a blissful thought during blisteringly hot conditions.

The 459-km route runs across the colonial-meets-chaos landscape of Shimla, rises up to the alpine-line of Narkanda, zig-zags past the apple orchards of Thanedar-Kotgarh, races through Rampur and a little ahead of Jeori (a diversion here leading to Sarahan), enters the scenic valley of Kinnaur. The shift in terrain from the twists and bends of Shimla’s green hills to the ruggedness of Kinnaur is quite stunning and the mountains appear like sculpted art. More than the destinations, the road becomes a point of discussion as it rapidly ascends and descends, at times precariously clinging to the edge and on occasions grandly zipping through dramatically-carved sheer rock. The River Sutlej is its steady escort and moody waters add another irresistible element of gaze in the already-stimulating mountain canvas. Nature has the ability to sparkle in every season and bursts of summer resplendence are brought in often by a brilliant lavender jacaranda peeping through dense conifers, wild roses cascading down a barren hillside, a flame of the forest in red profusion or the silver oak proudly presenting its mustardy-orange flowers. The colours sparkle and the contrasting mountains heighten the effect. 

During the initial stages of the onward journey through Kinnaur, a driver’s skills are tested often in encountering the appalling Wangtu-Karcham section, where hydel projects are works in progress and have ruined the terrain. An unexpected spell of rain does add to woes of this segment, but these are the sort of challenges mountain addicts thrive on, the successes in such moments adding to the bag of brag to be dug into often, long after the journey is over. The intermittently good-bad tarmac clears out a little before the uphill detour for Reckong Peo, the district headquarters of Kinnaur. The NH carries on to Sumdo and enters Spiti where it winds up at Kaurik, the Indian frontier which needs to be accessed on foot. For mission snow, though, you needn’t stretch yourself the full distance. A spectacle awaits at Kalpa, a destination 14 km ahead of Reckong Peo and 220 km from Shimla.

The drive up to Kalpa (9,051 ft) is impressive to say the least, with the pretty chilgoza or pine-nut tree (this region is said to produce the country’s best) lining the winding road and the whiff of snow drugging the air. The mountains play hide-and seek and the eyes stay peeled to spot the White. The road is flawless, the drive is smooth and a few mountain twists later when the vehicle halts the spectacular stuns. On offer is a panoramic 180 degree view of the Kinner Kailash range, appearing to be at touching distance. And it’s white. Snow-white! It looks magnificent against the brilliant blue of the sky and to use a clichéd expression ‘takes your breath away’. Often the actual lacks the beauty a picture-postcard conveys. Kalpa is real and utterly beautiful. Its postcard will never be a lie. The search for sun and snow is rewarded here, and magnificently so.

Kalpa is characteristically quaint and picturesque. It has lovely walking trails and friendly people with lyrical voices, typical kath-kuhni (walls built with alternating slabs of wood and stone) homes with gently sloping slate roofs, apple orchards in blossom running down the hills and a reigning quietude that’s interrupted only by the chirping of the birds or chants from temples and monasteries. These are features quite mountain-specific but are elevated to a new high by the glorious Kinner massif. As with all ‘Kailash’ suffixed mountains, this is also considered the legendary winter abode of Lord Shiva. His homes are in choice locales and at Kalpa he lets you savour a bit of that experience. Do make sure, though, that you strike a deal with the weather gods to keep overcast grey skies at bay and let the White reign. 

Published in India Today Travel Plus, Jan-Feb 2011

The HPTDC cottage has a vantage location. There are comfortable mod-cons within its aesthetic, traditional structure. You would need to demand the best, though (housekeeping being a bit jaded). 

Hail Shiva! This is one of his many 'Kailash' abodes. Spotting the Kinner Kailash peak in this pix is akin to finding the proverbial needle in the haystack.  

The sun does shine in Kalpa, adding a glisten to the snow and surroundings. On such days the clouds tip-toe away to reveal a shy blue sky.   

Toronto: Where Earth meets the Sky

The first impression about Toronto is its vertical limitlessness. Everything appears to be racing up-up-upper to meet the sky. Winch your neck and all you see is a bit of blue peeping from between two tall orders of concrete and glass. At night this sensation gets exaggerated when it seems the stars have come sailing down to twinkle. It’s the sparkle of the city’s neon lights but considering the dizzying heights these glow from they could just as well be the stars, the celestial real as it is not standing a chance to shine through the urban luminosity. 

Yet, Toronto can be dwarfed. And it’s Canada’s National Tower, more famously known as the CN Tower, which shrinks it in 58 seconds flat. That’s the time taken to rocket up 1,122 ft (342 m), just a few feet below its pinnacle, in a glass elevator to get a bird's eye view of the city. During daylight hours, from up above here, the metropolis layout looks like Lego-land with all blocks impeccably intact but come night and it seems the stars are beneath your feet! Located in Downtown Toronto, the CN Tower is quite predictably the city’s pride, as till recently it was considered the world’s tallest freestanding tower at 1,815 ft (553.3 m), an honour it held since it was opened to the public in 1976. Its status moved to second spot in 2010 with the inauguration of the Burj Khalifa, Dubai, which stands at a staggering 2,717 ft (828 m). The CN Tower dominates the Toronto skyline and visitors are enthusiastically shown the tapering structure. My city tour, true to form, began from this landmark. 
We had reached Toronto in the evening, about 20-long-hours after taking-off from Delhi, layover included. Immigration check had taken another hour and more, with some among us being scrutinised twice over, lest we cause trouble in ‘immigrant paradise’. The disciplined drive from Pearson airport to Downtown provided a preview of a city  we would explore the next day. Besides the vertical what impressed was the pretty, maple-fringed Lake Ontario that lends its name to the district.
The CN Tower is essentially a communication and surveillance tower containing multiple observation levels — including Sky Pod the highest of them all; a glass floor with a view right down till the ground which can give butterflies in the stomach to the weak-hearted; souvenir shops; and a one-of-its-kind revolving restaurant offering fine-dining experience and the world’s highest wine cellar. Appropriately called ‘360’, this is where I got my first taste of Toronto, quite literally so. The best time to be here is at dusk when the sky is a painter’s canvas and the city skyline a dramatic silhouette. The cuisine at 360 is designed by an award-wining chef and I looked forward to a piping hot platter just perfect for a cold night. Instead with there being just one vegetarian option I had to settle for ‘crispy curried eggplant with buffalo mozzarella’. I found it was arty but a little too gourmet for a ruggedness my tastebuds demanded at that time. I missed my tureen of dal! 
During a Toronto visit, the CN Tower is a singular experience for the unrivalled variety it offers. Even its security check is unusual and I was taken completely by surprise when I entered the futuristic blue-and-silver portals of the puffer machine (usually seen at US airports, I'm told). This latest technology uses puffs of air to detect explosives or drugs. Air blasts hit me all over for about 14 seconds during the scrutiny. Thankfully, I was declared safe and stepped out feeling I had mercifully escaped a gale. 
Canada’s most bustling city, Toronto is considered its financial and entertainment capital, and Central District is the place to catch this buzz. It has the best spread of gourmet restaurants, nightlife, hotels, visual arts, fashion and more. To mention a few, there’s the Princess of Wales and Royal Alexandra theatres; the new permanent home of the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), the Bell Lightbox; the happening Yonge Street—the oldest street of the city and also considered the longest in all North America; prêt shopping hot-spot as King Street or ritzy boutiques of Yorkville and Bloor St West; the outdoorsy St Lawrence Market and Kensington Market known for fresh food products; the ever-popular Queen West, the city’s one-stop hip cultural street; and of course it’s got the CN Tower that lord’s over them all.
In addition to these diverse attractions, Central Toronto is also the parliamentary and academic heart of the city, these institutions being housed in a set of heritage buildings, standing in pleasant architectural contrast to contemporary glitz. Within the beautiful Queen’s Park is the AD 1893 Legislative Building, a meeting place for Ontario’s Members of Provincial Parliament and it looked serene when I saw it in the early sunlight, a world away from the nightlife frames I had witnessed a few blocks away. Around the corner is the sprawling and impressive AD 1856 Romanesque Revival St George campus at the University of Toronto. This neighbourhood is part of the ‘discovery district’ that includes the Royal Ontario Museum and the Royal Conservatory of Music.
A place where old and new coalesce in a unique blend is at the Toronto City Hall. The complex has semi-circle twin towers and between them is the inverted-saucer-shaped council chamber, the positioning seeming like two hands cradling the chamber, representative of safeguarding the interests of the state. This arrangement has also given it the moniker of ‘Eye of the Government’. It overlooks the Nathan Phillips square, which in winter turns into a popular skating rink. Adjoining the twin towers is the Old City Hall, at present the court house, which has classical architecture. The two landmarks together present a past-blends-into-present frame signifying a dynamic and growing city which is proud of its roots. It’s a thought shared by millions of immigrants who have made vertically-expanding Toronto their home and contribute in making it a vibrant multi-ethnic city.     

Quick Facts:

Air: Daily flights from Delhi, Mumbai to Toronto

Railways: The VIA Rail System has a network throughout Canada. As compared to India, railway travel in Canada is an expensive mode and its tickets have flexi-rates.

Bus: A day pass of C$ 10 is available for TTC (Toronto Transit Commission) buses and it allows limitless travel within the city.

Tram: Toronto is the only Canadaian city where trams (streecars) run.

For city tour: www.allabouttoronto.com; Phone: 416-495-8687


Published in The Hindu, January 2011

Kanha Earth Lodge

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 Published in Jetwings, December 2010

Oh! Calcutta: City with many moods

She never fails to overwhelm in ways uniquely her own. The wrinkles of age are visible but she’s a portrait of grace. Some adore her, some abuse her. But she embraces them all, unconditionally. She nurtures and gently compels to look beyond the mundane and the material, and live life in full measure. She shows a way to enjoy moments and not long for minutes. She’s real yet she’s an enigma. She’s Calcutta.
If you want too see an Indian city with a soul, buy travel tickets to Calcutta, now Kolkata. A bustling, bursting-at-its-seams metropolis, it’s got the answer you’ll ever require to charge your five senses. Here’s the A-Z of a city with many moods.

Ambassador: Production of the good ol’ Amby, India’s first car, has stopped but it still packs city streets. Under its matronly, domed hood are delightfully classic features like the side-vent windows for breeze in your hair. The Amby is largely spotted as the quintessential yellow taxi.   

Belur: The headquarters of the Ramakrishna Misssion, it’s a serene complex on the banks of River Hoogly. The main temple, devoted to sage Ramakrishna, is built in traditional Bengali char-chala (four-arched) style. A string of smaller temples includes one dedicated to Swami Vivekananda.

Chowringhee: Down the centuries the street has captured the imagination of all those who have traversed it. The city’s most famous business address, it has a striking Colonial skyline and defines the ‘Calcutta era’ in all its splendour.  

Dover Lane Music Conference: The city’s fervour for classical compositions touches the high note every winter when music sessions are held. The four-day Dover Lane event at Nazrul Manch has reached legendary proportions and draws connoisseurs from afar. Other celebrated programmes are Gunidas sangeet sammelan, Sabrang sangeet sammelan and ITC guru-shishya sammelan.

Eden Garden: The haloed ground of Indian cricket, the Eden Garden stadium, has been the venue for many a dramatic match. Opposite it is Maidan, the city’s green lung and amongst the largest metropolis parks in the world. On Sundays it turns into a battle ground for cheer and jeer when hundreds of cricket matches are played by enthusiastic boys and men. On its fringes are some of the oldest sporting clubs of the country like Mohan Bagan and East Bengal.

Flower market: Located on Mallick Ghat, at the head of Howrah Bridge, it’s the biggest wholesale flower bazaar in eastern India and its sheer profusion of colour is a feast for the eyes. Blooms of myriad varieties vie for attention but there’s no taking away from the dominance of the saffron-hued marigold that lights up all spaces. Weekly business worth crores happens in this shanty market.   

Graphitti: The Bengali breathes art. The city walls are also his canvas where the flair with paint and brush manifests itself majorly as creative slogans of political rhetoric. The gods are appeased too and so are iconic heroes like Che and Maradona in similar fashion.      

Hoogly: For a tryst with the great Ganga—River Hoogly here—and to experience life playing out on its ghats (banks), hop on to a ferry that gently bobs in the shadows of the stunning Howrah Bridge and Vidyasagar Bridge.

ICE Zone: Sector 5 in Salt Lake is the info-tech and communication district. And it chills out nearby at Sector 1 City Centre, the glitziest contemporary public space in town designed by renowned Charles Correa. It represents a vibrant confluence of shopping malls, cineplexes, restaurants and food courts amidst luxuriant contours. To get an arresting bird’s eye view of a neon cityscape ascend to Afraa, its fine dining space, on the seventh floor.

Jorasankho: 6/4 Dwarkanath Tagore Lane, Kolkata – 7. That’s the address where lived Bengal’s reverend father, Nobel-laureate Rabindranath Tagore. His house was the hub of Bengali literati and many a revolutionary idea was sparked here. Currently it’s a centre for performing arts. Its well-preserved Tagore museum has serene, overpowering vibes. Around the corner is Marble Palace, an aristocratic residence, now slightly disheveled, that displays a personal collection of priceless European masterpieces and bric-a-brac.    

  

Kathi rolls: A Kolkata invention, it’s undoubtedly the simplest, yet most delectable street fare fit for epicurean taste-buds. A version of the wrap, it’s about succulent pieces of chicken (barbequed on wooden skewers or kathi, thus the name) rolled in an egg fried roti (flour tortilla) layered with chopped onion, green chillies, spices and a dash of lemon all in a jiffy.

Lal-paar & dhuti-punjabi: Fashion may swing between Rathore and Armani but there’s nothing as classy as the lal paar (red border) saree worn the traditional way by women and the dhuti-punjabi (lower-kurta) sported by men. The attire is a constant at any social event, especially during the festive months.

Mishti: The famed Bengali sweet-tooth has given rise to mishti (sweetmeat) shop in almost every lane and each seems to excel in not just its rosogulla and sandesh but a whole gamut.  In winters, sugar in the mishti is replaced with notun gur or the divinely-delicious date-palm jaggery. Joynagarer Moa (pix) is another winter special. Balaram Mullick in Bhowanipore is one of the many established name in traditional treats.  

Nahoum's: The 1912 vintage shop in New Market is one of the handful Jewish-owned confectioneries found in India. A legend in itself, its timeless glass-wood cabinets are packed with favourites like walnut brownies, baklava, feta cheese sambusak (pix), mutton rolls, water biscuits and its famous rich fruit cake, for which there are unbelievable km-long queues on Christmas eve.  

Oh! Calcutta: A chic restaurant for gourmet Bengali at Forum, the city’s popular multiplex, on Elgin Road. It’s value for money and flavour and the daab-chingri (shrimps in tender coconut shell) is a must-eat. A short distance away is Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose’s home. (For traditional fare in unfussy environs book a table at Bhojohori Manna, www.bhojohorimanna.org, where the menu changes everyday).

Park Street: Once Asia’s most happening nightspot, it’s a petered down version of its former self but is still alluring, especially under a neon glaze. It has some fine restaurants, cafes and bookstores and is the place for a leisurely browse and munch. A landmark here is Flury’s, a one-time Swiss confectionary, that’s a must-visit for its sparkling ambience and the nostalgia it holds, besides of course its scrumptious cakes and savouries.

 

Queen’s Mansion: It was the residential address on Park Street. The mansion still stands in regal grace and a fresh coat of paint has added new life to the Victorian edifice. A few lanes away, New Market (pix) too has had a bit of a facelift.

Rickshaw: These are wheels of heritage and beget admiration, even if you need heart to see man lug man. The hand-pulled version found only on these streets has attracted its share of human rights activists who have been pushing to see it go off the road. It still hasn’t, and the rickshawalas are carting passengers, and quite happily so.

Street food: Kolkata is so much about food that it overpowers the senses. But nothing matches the gastronomic range served on its streets. It makes a mess of the surroundings but there’s such passion on display in the process of making fresh food in bare minimum ways that it’s gone way beyond reasons of sustenance and entered the realm of art. The aromas are appetising and its best to allow your nose to dictate as it trails the smells of luchi-aloo, macher jhol-bhaat, chop-cutlet, roomlai-koshamangsho et al. In the district of snacks there’s the numero uno jhaalmuri—raw mustard oil-flavoured spicy quick-fix of puffed rice—channajor garam, chilla, singhara, chumur…it goes on. The maati-bahander chai or tea served in earthen pots is another unparallel.   

Tram: For a ticket to ride on a mode of history jump on to the tram, running only in Kolkata, delightfully crisscrossing lanes and showcasing a cultural slice. The most architecturally-rich routes are those touching Esplanade and BBD Bagh stations which go past the Tipu Sultan Mosque, Chowringhee, Writers Building, Shaheed Minar, GPO, Raj Bhawan and a host of Victorian buildings. A new glass-roofed tram car is the latest scorcher.   

U/A: Nandan on AJC Bose Road has been the celebrated place for movie buffs and you need to catch a film here to see what draws the population. During film festivals it’s the most effervescent venue to be at and join animated discussions at addas (group chats). The complex has a museum dedicated to Satyajit Ray.

Victoria Memorial: It’s vintage Calcutta’s signature structure. Striking in its grandeur, it remains the favourite spot for local citizen and tourist alike and long queues can be witnessed almost everyday. Inside its portals is a museum and atop its dome is the figure of an angel that’s also a wind-vane.

Wonton soup: This is a hot seller at the Chinese breakfast served on the street at Tiretta Bazaar. The venue gets the marks for sheer ambience and is a sight to savour from 6 am - 9 am when the residents of this area, erstwhile China Town, come out of their homes to cook and serve piping hot fare. If you are late you don’t even spot the crumbs.  

X-mass: Not just Durga Puja, no one celebrates Christmas the way it’s done here. It’s a pan-community affair and the city wears festive lights. St Paul’s Cathedral and Park Street is where the crowds converge and Santa Claus pops out of every restaurant door. 

Yesteryears: Kolkata is one of those cities where ‘yesteryear’ holds true in the present. It’s a city that values commitment to tradition and it’s here that you are treated to a stimulating, seamless blend of conventional and contemporary.

Zoological garden: Alipore Zoo, the oldest in the country, has the largest party of the animal kingdom and they are known to growl, roar or make a monkey of the teeming numbers who visit them. Sometime they do oblige with a priceless pose for the lens.     

Published JetWings Int'l, 2010

Jordan: Timeless sands of Wadi Rum

 “V  a  s  t,  e  c  h  o  i  n  g,  a n d  g o d-l i k e”

There are deserts, and there are gargantuan rocks. Then there is Wadi Rum, a desert of silken-smooth sand studded with monolithic rocks soaring from open valleys, both elements coalescing to such stupendous effect that it almost appears to be an incredible piece of installation art. In a way it has to be, and should rank amongst the line-up of special works, it is sculpted by the Master artist, after all.  
Wadi Rum lies in the Aqaba Governorate, which is the southern tip of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Geographically, though, it belongs to the sweeping expanse of the Arabian Desert stretching through Iraq, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Oman and Jordan.

From amongst the assorted landscapes in the kingdom, it’s Wadi Rum or ‘valley of the moon’ that comes across as timeless for many a traveller. In no sense does it reflect the desert definition of being a hostile and potentially-perilous environment not fit for survival. On the contrary, it’s welcoming and has a sort of tranquil magnetism, almost spiritual, that draws you towards it. During a recent tour of Jordan, I intuitively joined the clique of those utterly enthralled by it and would put it down as a site not to be given the miss during an excursion in the kingdom.  

The most arresting aspect in this desert canvas are the monoliths of sandstone and granite rising to heights of around 1,750 mt and bearing the most fantastic features. These expressive rock faces are the happy outcome of constant exposure to erosion. Adding further contrast and irrefutable allure to the panoramic landscape are red-ochre dunes and endless miles of powdery sand in blended hues.

One of the most famous expressions to describe Wadi Rum has emerged from TE Lawrence, popularly known as the Lawrence of Arabia, who in his autobiography Seven Pillars of Wisdom described it as “vast, echoing, and god-like”. It is a quote splashed across all forms of information on Wadi Rum, and strangely so, despite being oft-heard it doesn’t sound hackneyed. The words penned in 1922 are just so apt even today reinforcing the eternal nature of Wadi Rum.

Explore and shop

Ways of exploring Wadi Rum include a jeep drive or better still a camel safari lead by a Zalabia Bedouin—one of the few tribes inhabiting this desert. That apart, those with an adventure bone can opt for camping, trekking, hiking or rock climbing. Hot air ballooning is a fairly recent addition that’s drawing the crowds, predictably so. The paucity of time had me scrambling into a 4x4 (most of these are run-down versions) for my tryst with the sands of time. 

Before setting out on a safari, tourists are supposed to register at the elegant Wadi Rum visitor centre and avail the option of seeing a brilliant documentary on this ecosphere, highlighting its flora, fauna and geological aspects. There are a few souvenir shops too, largely retailing replicas of ancient hunting petroglyphs discovered on rocks here, dating back to a millennium-plus and providing vital anthropology leads. Brochures also don’t forget to mention movies filmed here, such as the classic Lawrence of Arabia which singly catapulted Wadi Rum to the tourism stratosphere, Red Planet and Passion in the Desert. 

Jeep Safari

My two-hour jeep tour kick-started from one of the most photographed rock formations, Mount Rum, popularly called ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’, so titled by Lawrence. Driving around the dunes and on fields of sand was a new experience, after having driven on Jordan’s faultless highways. The monolithic rocks were definitely the jewels in the crown, some of these being so mystically alive that I felt they would speak any moment. Some shapes were unique, as the arched Jebel Burdah, which had trekkers scaling its height. One of the scheduled mid-way halts during the safari is at a Bedouin tent where black-tea flavoured with locally grown sage and cardamom is offered. It’s delicious. Sipping tea in the company of camels and friendly locals attired in thobe (gown)-keffiyeh (head gear) adds enduring charm to the desert experience.  

This terrain required time but we were racing against the clock, with guide Ali making sure we didn’t miss the all-important sunset seen best from atop a monolith fringed by cascading reddish-orange sand. We had to scramble up to the summit, a tough task indeed, to get the best views. And it was worth it. The amber glow of sunset altered the desertscape, silhouetting the rocks dramatically. Shade and light created an unusual eco-system. As the sun set the land appeared to get even quieter, and as we watched night engulf the desert it seemed a city had turned off its lights. A few hours later when daylight would creep in the desert would once again transform and life would blossom. 

Golden triangles

Apart from Wadi Rum, most popular sites of Jordan are found in its fertile crescent. In the southern-end, coastal Aqaba, Petra — the rock cut kingdom of the ancient Nabatean tribe that’s been declared the new wonder of the world, and Wadi Rum form a doable triangle. In the north, capital Amman, the Dead Sea, and Madaba, which is considered the centre of Byzantine mosaic art, is the other triangle. The Desert Highway and the more scenic King’s Highway link the kingdom and ensure you zip through the countryside at ease while exploring it.

Quick facts: 
Air: Royal Jordanian has daily flights from Delhi and Mumbai

Distance monitor: Wadi Rum to Aqaba (50 km/1 hr); Aqaba to Amman (367 km/3.5 hrs/ daily internal flights between the two destinations)

Currency: 1 Jordanian Dinar (JD) = Rs 65 appx

Accommodation: There is ample choice in the semi-premium category, where the tariff is upwards JD 120 (Rs 7,500-plus).


Published, Jetwings December 2010

Ottawa by Marche By

“Have you had BeaverTails at ByWard Market?” This was the nth person asking me that question. I hadn’t heard the expression till I had stepped into Ottawa on a wintery morning. Over the next few days that I was to spend in the absorbing capital city of Canada, this query would pop up very often. Friendly locals would recommend it and friends would talk at length about it. The bottomline: you couldn’t have gone back from Ottawa without doing the ‘BeaverTails at Byward Market’ ritual. That would almost account for contempt of custom.

What was BeaverTails? Before you get notions of delicacy or horror, depending which side of the food-preference fence you are on, be rest assured it belongs to the much-relished dominion of desserts, and the only fault it can commit is wrecking your calorie count. Essentially a dough pastry, it’s hand-stretched to remind you, well, of a beaver’s tail, and fried to a lightly-crisp, golden-brown. The pastry is topped with a variety of options as hazelnut, candy bar bits, fruit, chocolate etc, though the classic remains cinnamon-sugar. Savoury toppings like grated cheese are also popular. A thoroughbred Canadian retail venture, BeaverTails is a chain of stores across the country having originated at ByWard Market in Ottawa. That outlet still remains iconic for this neo-traditional dessert, a creation of Pam and Grant Hooker, who turned their family recipe into a business in 1978.

It was at the ByWard stall that I eventually had my first bite of BeaverTails. A perfect snack for a windy day, it also reminded me of home. I felt it’s basically our humble ‘atta ki roti’, fried and tweaked with toppings. Nonetheless, what I was savouring was a Canadian version of our daily bread and enjoyed it, especially the part of having done the buzz.   

ByWard Market

The festive spirit of year-end December is hard to miss and the one spot in Ottawa that it all comes to the fore is at the circa 1826 ByWard Market. Considered the soul-keeper of the city, it’s amongst the oldest and biggest markets of Canada. The most vibrant district of Downtown Ottawa, and also known as Marche By in French, this is the venue of an open-air farmer’s market, art and knick-knack stalls, magician shows, music gigs, book launches, horse-drawn carriage rides etc. In addition, it has a collection of chic boutiques (Frou Frou is a must-check for urban, artsy apparel), pulsating restaurants, sidewalk cafes and a pick of nightlife spots, which include Chateau Lafayette, the city’s oldest inn (AD 1849) where every Saturday since 1999, country singer Ron Burke, a legend of Ottawa, holds the Lucky Ron Show, belting out classics and having the swigging crowd swaying and singing.

Another iconic spot here of current vintage is the Moulin de Provence Bakery, which prepares maple-leaf-shaped sugar cookies with red and white icing. Ever since US President Obama picked up a few for his daughters, during an impromptu visit in 2009, these have been labelled ‘Obama cookies’ and are always in huge demand, the baker’s order having risen by a daily count of thousand!  

As a build-up to Christmas, ByWard Market begins getting festooned, appearing almost fairlyland-like. This December, the weekends (between Dec 4-19, 12 noon to 4 pm) offer holiday choirs and free horse-carriage rides. Adjoining the open-air market is Rideau Centre, one of the best shopping malls of the city that presents a fine selection of just about anything you’re looking for.

Downtown and around

Ottawa city, in Ontario province, lies largely on the banks of the River Ottawa, with the River Rideau and River Gatineau fringing it. The network of rivers has given Canada a unique heritage and a slice of this can be seen in Ottawa by way of the 202-km Rideau Canal which has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. One of the greatest engineering feats of its time, it’s the oldest continuously-operated canal in the continent and its locks are managed today just as they were when it opened in 1832, as a war-time supply route.  The Rideau Canal makes a pretty sight in summers, but come winters and it freezes to form a 7.8 km solid ice ground, in the event gathering a statistic of becoming the world’s largest skating rink which is a sure treat for ice-skaters. 

The canal, a hop away from ByWard Market, flows between two other striking Neo-Gothic landmarks of the city: Parliament Hill, the seat of the government (free tour of the complex is offered), and Fairmont Château Laurier hotel, a class in itself. Around them there are a number of attractive spots and it’s best to dress in layers to conquer the wind-chill factor, don walk-worthy shoes and map the area on foot. 

Across the Chateau is the National War Memorial and a few blocks away, Sparks Street, a pedestrian zone popular for souvenir purchasing. About one km away is the Canadian Museum of Nature; while at bus-ride distance is a spot definitely not to be missed — the National Gallery of Canada with a stupendous sculpture of a massive bronze spider by its front doors. If travelling with kids, the Canadian Museum of Civilization (in Gatineau) is a must-visit, especially to see the collection of totem poles as well as for its invigorating children’s section that offers glimpses of a world culture in a remarkable fashion.

Ottawa is a bustling multi-ethnic region and according to unofficial data has the highest number of languages spoken per sq km in a capital city. Immigrant Asians have happily settled into the cityscape and are a proud community. As an Indian visitor, it may take a while in getting used to the sober discipline that governs the city, but once in sync with regulations the system is appreciated. Yet, if you ever feel homesick tune into Chin Radio FM 97.9 between 5 to 7 pm, when India-born popular radio jockey, “host and dost (friend)” Hunsdeep Rangar, does a special programme for the South Asian community under the banner of Mirch Masala Radio, rolling out a peppy package of Bollywood hits, star interviews and community events. A Kishore Kumar-Asha Bhonsle duet when walking by the Rideau Canal munching on BeaverTails sounds the perfect blend for a day out in multi-cultural Ottawa.    

Getting around: Ottawa has an excellent network of buses. Private cabs the other alternative.  The Visitor Centre, opposite Parliament Hill, offers able assistance.

Accommodation: When in the capital, it’s in order to stay at the best heritage property:

Fairmont Château Laurier (www.fairmont.com). The hotel is located in the heart of Downtown, and is at touching distance from popular spots.

What to buy: Maple syrup, Moose droppings chocolate, ‘Roots’ apparel

Where to shop: Rideau Centre, next to Byward Market, offers a wide selection and good bargains for tourists 


Published, Dec 2010