Postcards from Lucknow

Bara Imambara complex:(left) Asfi masjid (right) entrance

The dual fish motif, the coat of arms of Awadh, at the entrance of the Bara Imambara

Rumi Darwaza, next to Bara Imambara. Yes, tongas still ply here.

Chandeliers galore at Chota Imambara

Jarnail Kothi is known
 for its Roman arches and design

Lal Baradari, once a Coronation 
Hall now houses the state
 Lalit Kala Akademi   

La Martinière Boys' College (above and below) was founded in 1845. It's the "only school in the world" to have been awarded royal battle honours

Chikan-kari: The embroidery is said to have made its way here from Persia. Many meanings of the term abound, of which chikeen or 'running thread through cloth' seems the pick. It began as white on white, and that by far still looks most elegant.

The attar you dab so fondly is prepared the old-fashioned way in copper vessels. The best comes from the city of Kanauj 

Hazratganj: The brand street of Lucknow

Lucknow has dedicated bicycle tracks. And all very well 
marked. Surely it has nothing to do with the fact 
that the ruling SP symbol is bicycle, or... ;-) 

Urban Farming: But naturally!

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/504286/but-naturally.html

Leh town Heritage Walk

Sofi House, Leh 

The writer takes a walk through Leh and finds beautiful stone pathways, quaint buildings and the traditional way of life still intact

In Leh, past and present walk hand in hand. If one moment you’re in a cyber café connecting with the world, the next instant you could mistakenly think you’ve strolled into a medieval film set as you walk through the winding alleys of an old town.

Monastic chants and the azan harmoniously ring intermittently through the day in Leh and the latter is a calming background score when I arrive at Manikhang, a busy inner lane in old town. I’ve decided to explore the area and this is a convenient starting point. Around me lies a maze of mud brick-houses with flat roofs and pretty wood-work windows accentuated by chequered glass-panes. Stone pathways rise steeply and lime-washed stupas stand in silence. Adding more drama to this living theatre is the 17th century Lehchen Pelkhar or Leh Palace, its under-restoration nine-storey structure spectacularly looming above the residential quarters and playing reminder of a grand era when the town was on the crossroads of Central Asian trade on the fabled Silk Road. This cluster of 200-odd houses is considered among the world’s most historically-intact Tibeto-Himalayan urban settlements.

As I walk the lanes, elderly bearded men with prayer caps curiously peep out of hole-in-the-wall shops packed with old-fashioned ware, women clad in maroon goncha (the ample Ladakhi woollen robe) exit homes and an aged goldsmith, sits bent over a design. It’s crumbling but tremendously atmospheric. So enveloping is the quaintness that I can almost hear a caravan of double-humped Bactrian camels from Bukhara halting somewhere here and merchants off-loading carpets, oriental silks, lapis lazuli, and more for a barter with local traders. If ‘back in time’ needed a visual representation this is it, notwithstanding the reality check provided by boards of cellular companies and the satellite dish, an adjunct on a few rooftops.

A significant bit of restoration work is on in the old town and two organisations quite involved in it are Ladakh Arts and Media Organization (Lamo) and Tibet Heritage Fund (THF). I leaf through their brochures and maps, and decide to follow a trail that’ll show me the extent of perseverance and triumph achieved by the two associations in lovingly preserving Leh’s legacy. A mingling of regional Buddhist traditions and those inherited from Central Asia have melded in Ladakh. The walk is all about coming up close with that way of life and not tick-marking monuments.

The first stop is the late-19th century Sofi House built with a blend of Tibetan and Kashmiri styles by a trading family from the Valley. It has striking elements of Kashmiri residential construction like dub(over-hanging balconies) with pinjarkari (wooden lattice work) shutters.

The traditional roof in Ladakh is quite an art in itself, and conservationists are taking meticulous efforts to remove all traces of modern mortar in projects they have undertaken ain order to rebuild the ceilings conventionally, with wooden beams, willow-stick joists, straw mats, local yagtses grass, soil, clay, and donkey dung, which increases solidness and strength.

In these parts, a donkey is a sturdy workhorse. Till a few years ago, once their usefulness was over, the donkeys roamed the streets uncared for. That was till a nice girl from South Africa called Joanne Lefson set up the Donkey Sanctuary here. Do stop by and meet these lovable jacks and jennys and contribute a little something for their upkeep.

My next halt is Lakruk House, a well-preserved original construction. From its terrace I get the best panoramic view of Leh old town — a sea of brown (mud) structures — cascading down the slope; the fluttering prayer flags and blue skies making it very picturesque.

After a pause I ascend the local way – up the rocky mountain path. I reach Red Chamba Lhakhang (Red temple of Maitreya) completely out of breath and what further takes my breath away are the 15th century wall-paintings that were discovered underneath lime plaster by THF. A collaboration of European and Ladakhi restorers have painstakingly brought them back to life.

Later, I get a peek into Munshi House, former home of the royal secretary that’s now being converted into an art centre by Lamo. The descent as expected was easier and I wrap up my tour at the lively Chutayrangtak Street, right behind the 17th century Jamia Masjid. This is where the delightful aroma of fresh bread and biscuits baked by Kashmiri naanwais (bakers) makes almost everyone halt for a tempting gaze.

By next season there will be another reason to stop here: the Central Asian Museum should be complete for visitors to view the cross-cultural influences, particularly from Kashmir, Tibet, Baltistan, Samarkand and Yarkand that have shaped Ladakh.

It is aptly situated in the Tsas Soma complex, which was once a caravan serai. Opposite it, quite incredibly, is a meswak tree, revered by Sikhs, as it dates back to the 15th century when Guru Nanak Dev visited Leh and sowed it. And you thought Leh was only about its airport and the jeep tours to Pangong Tso and Nubra Valley.

Published Sunday Magazine, The Hindu

Crackling Krakow: Moods of a medieval city

Voted among the world's most beautiful cities, Krakow's extensive cultural heritage includes Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. It has the biggest Market Square -- now a Unesco heritage site -- in all Europe, was a major junction on the erstwhile amber trading route, has a poignant Jewish connection, a thriving gourmet scene and languid vibrancy that makes this town in southern Poland such a delight to visit. 

Accompany me on a photographic journey... 

Rynek Główny or Main Square of Old Town, Kraków, Lesser Poland: (clockwise from from left): St Mary's Basilica; Carriage trots around with the Cloth Hall or Sukiennice in the backdrop; Krakow restaurant... take a look at the exposed brick and mortar walls... this is the commendable way old architecture is being preserved despite a modern makeover; Krakow, it's said, stays alive from the first bell of the cafes to the last!; The city is dotted with kiosks of obwarzanek, a bread with a hole, something like a bagel. This has a rich tradition in Poland, dating back hundreds of years and is considered a symbol of Krakow.

Krakow and around: (clockwise from top left): Musicians outside St. Florian's Gate... This is the only survivor from among eight gates that originally led into the Old Town. It's at the head of the bustling Florianska Street; Grunwald Monument in front of the Barbican; Wawel Castle; Barbican; Wieliczka Salt Mine; Oskar Schindler's Factory Holocaust museum; snazzy eco-transport. 

Stary Kleparz Farmers' Market: This is a must-visit for foodies. Stuff fresh from the farm and the dairy arrives early morning making the smorgasbord array a feast for the eyes and palate. Let's take you through (clockwise from left): Wild mushrooms and raspberries; Lesser Poland's popular Bundz (sheep-milk) cheese moulded in lovely patterns; dried sunflower pods; lavender stems all dressed up as potpourri; kilebasa stack; this is the famous Polish sour soup in rye bread-bowl, it's a restaurant special and most ingredients travel into it from the market.


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Victoria, British Columbia

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Brand Bastar

Style queens, them: Turn your gaze away from neon-lit ramps and take a look here. 
What poise, what charm, what confidence, what panache. Uberlegen!!  
Classic, or funky for some, tradition is timeless and inspirational. 

  

 This may also interest you: http://brindasuri.blogspot.in/2011/12/bastar-chattisgarh.html

Handicraft: Kashmir

Clockwise from top left: Basketry; crewel work or aari; papier mache; walnut wood carving; kangri; namda made with sheep wool; copper work; gabba or appliqué rug; pheran with tilla dozi  

The Kashmir valley is known for an assortment of exquisite handicrafts. Did you know a preacher sowed the seeds of craft here? Here's how...

Persian palette

Unlike the rest of the country, craft in Kashmir has its roots in Persia or present day Iran. History says Persian preacher Shah-e-Hamadan arrived in Kashmir around the 13th century with an aim to spreading Islam. He came with a huge set of followers among whom were artists and craftspersons who excelled in papier-mache, coppersmithing, wood carving, embroidery, carpet-weaving, calligraphy and more. They soon got down to work in the Valley, besides also imparting training to locals in skills they were adept in.

It’s said Shah-e-Hamadan encouraged the spread of craft so that the locals could keep themselves busy during the harsh winter months when there was little else to do than be huddled indoors. It would also lead to a boost in the region's economy, he felt.  The preacher’s prediction proved correct and over time the Valley became a flourishing hub of quality handicraft, along the way developing a unique style that was a blend of local and Persian elements. As a dedication to the saint, the Khanqah-e-Moula was built by the banks of river Jhelum in Srinagar. It remains one of the most striking structures in the Valley and is an outstanding example of Kashmiri-Central Asian architecture. When visiting Downtown (or the old parts of the city) this beauty in wood should be on your must-see list.

Mughal vocabulary

Kashmir’s craft drew appreciation and was always in demand, attracting its share of global buyers too. Political unrest in the Valley, however, saw a steady decline in the crafts and it was only when the art-loving Mughals took over Kashmir in the 16th century that a revival was witnessed. As craftspersons began receiving royal patronage the cottage industry got a much-needed fillip.

The Mughals were proud of their roots and always kept alive the connection with Samarkand, their ancestral land, by promoting its excellent arts. Indeed, Hindustan was enriched by their aesthetics. Kashmiri craftspersons too gained from Mughal inputs and happily included Central Asian expression in their art.

European tones

By the 19th century the British were well entrenched in India and Kashmir became their favourite summer retreat. They too were charmed by the wizardry of the artisans; not only did they become one of the biggest patrons of the arts, but also lent their views and refined the products further. It was now that crafts got a slight European twist in colour tones and patterns.

As the British could not buy land in the Valley they set up houseboats, which became their seasonal abode. They tapped into local skills to dress these residences, giving artists a unique canvas to show their creativity. The houseboats were the beginning of yet another industry in Kashmir, one that remains a major source of tourism revenue.

One look around the craft shops in the cities of at melas and you’ll realize every item on the shelf is not just a piece of decoration but something you can affectionately use. It’s said it were the British who taught craftsperson to make their craft utilitarian. This shift was received well and ever since there has been no looking back for craft stemming from the Valley. 

Published Deccan Herald, Feb 2015

Common man, Uncommon man

Silently, you spoke a thousand words. You enriched our lives and made us smile.  

Wizard of wit... the inimitable RK Laxman. Long live the Common Man!       

Indian folk art: Bhil

Bhil art is possibly the oldest form of tribal expression in India. On the contemporary art scene, though, it's been a late starter, having been overshadowed by other forms which, perhaps, got promoted better. Renowned Bhil artists like Bhuri Devi were discovered a few decades ago but despite them being hailed by aficionados internationally, their popularity was restricted to a small audience. The reason the art remains delightfully folkish even as it now begins enjoying the spotlight.

For the record

To an untrained eye Bhil can be confused for Gond, both art forms using near-similar metaphor. But look a little keenly — you don’t need to peer too hard — and you'll realise the marked differences between the two figurative styles.  

With the sort of urban exposure it's received, Gond has refined itself. What’s clearly visible at first glance are the contours in Gond paintings, which are very well defined. For instance, if the paws of a cat are to be shown, these will resemble the actual shape. In a Bhil painting, on the other hand, they will be just an impression.

In-filling the motif is a very prominent aspect of both forms. Bhils use only dots in all colours and these can be scattered or drawn in neat formation, almost similar to aborigine art. In contrast each Gond artist has evolved a signature filling pattern — dot, dash, round etc — and these are almost-always in the colour black. Furthermore, the art of the Gonds is usually proportionate while the Bhils have an unrestrictive, almost naïve, style.

Continental connection

To read more
right click on image 

“Bhil, Gond, Rathwa are tribes found in the neighbourhood of western Madhya Pradesh and Eastern Gujarat. Their culture and customs have similar basis which gets reflected in the paintings of each of these communities. It's the approach that differs,” says Mamta Sharma, senior manager, Tribal Cooperative Marketing Development Federation of India Limited (Trifed), Ministry of Tribal Affairs. "Quite intriguingly, the similarity of form found in these tribal paintings is noticeable in aboriginal art too. A few seasons back we had held an exhibition of Gond and aborigine art from Australia; it was hard to tell them apart," she avers, bringing the focus back once again to the ongoing debate on how best to explain the parallel connection between two art forms indigenous to two separate continents. Throwing light on this a recent anthropological research suggests that during the great migration particular genetic groups reached Australia via the Gond region in India. It is probable these groups picked up the art form here and took it with them to where they finally settled and developed it into what's today known as aborigine art.

Published in Deccan Herald, Oct 2014 

Harmandar Sahib: Gur Ram Das rakho sarnaee

Hum Avagun Bharae Ek Gun Nahee Amrit Shaad Bikhai Bikh Khaee ||
I am overflowing with negativity; I have no personal value and self-esteem and I keep drowning myself in poisonous thoughts and actions.

Maya Moh Bharam Pai Bhoolae Sut Dhara Sio Preet Lagaee ||
I am attached to materialism and delusion; I am clinging to my children and spouse.

Ik utam Panth Sunio Gur Sangat Tehey Milanth Jam Tras Mittaee ||
I have come to know the most exalted Path of all, is the conscious dialogue between seekers of the Truth, where those seeking to awaken inner light gather. In this company may I remove 
my fear of death.

Ik Ardas Bhaat Keerat Kee, Gur Ram Das Rakho Sarnaee ||4||58||

Keerat the poet offers this one prayer: 

O Guru Ram Das, Save me! Take me into Your Sanctuary! ||4||58||

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMkIwRlmEco


This shabad or hymn is from the Bhaat Baani or verses of bards (www.sikhiwiki.org/index.php/Bhatts). Some compositions from the Bani are recited every morning at Harmandar Sahib and are known as Swaiye. The term originated from a popular form of poetry used by the Bhaats called 'Swaiya Chhand', which gave their verses a very distinctive musical style (www.discoversikhism.com/sikhs/bhatts_bards). 
Also called Bhaattan de Swaiye, these are recited in turn by a group of sevadars after the arrival of the Guru Granth Sahib to the sanctum sanctorum, and whilst the holy granth is being adorned with poshak or rumalla (covers) in preparation for prakash or opening of the granth for the daily hukumnama. 
Hukumnama  originates from two Persian words hukum, meaning command or order, and namah, meaning letter. In the Sikh tradition, it is now used to refer to the first shabad read during prakash and is considered the guru's order for the day.  
The one accompanying this photo essay has been composed by Bhaat Keerat. It's the last Swaiya and is recited in chorus, the congregation also joining in. 

Amritsar with Chef Vikas Khanna

It’s not everyday that a Michelin-starred restaurant chef takes you on a food trail. So when an opportunity like that comes along what do you do? Quite simply, grab it and grub around. That’s what I did last week along with a motley lot.

The chef in question was Vikas Khanna, the occasion was the launch of his new book Amritsar: Flavours of the Golden City (Roli Books), and the venue, quite appropriately, was his hometown and the food capital of Punjab: Amritsar.

The book is not merely a recipe guide but an ode to his beloved city and the people who shaped who he is today. A celebrity chef, the face of India in New York where he’s the executive chef at Junoon, a popular television host/guest/judge, cookbook(s) writer, documentary film-maker… Vikas Khanna dons many a hat and does so with utmost ease. He resides in America but wears Made in India on his sleeve. A proud Punjabi, he’s as much at home in Manhattan as he is on the streets he took us to, happily posing with whoever came by for a photo-op, praising nondescript cooks for their excellent skills, generously hugging dhaba-owners he had known since childhood and making them swell with pride on being credited for being a part of his evolution. 

Winsome, self-deprecating and modest to a fault, he's almost unbelievable. These are qualities that have endeared him to the masses giving him near-rockstar status. The cynic journo in me felt he skillfully plays to the gallery; perhaps an art he had mastered like his art of cooking. That aside, there's no taking away his accomplishments. In a world of 'pop-up' celebrities he stands among the achievers. Take a bow Vikas Khanna, you have walked the miles and there are many more to go.   

STOP PRESS: Oct 1, 2014: 

"Junoon is graced with FOURTH Michelin star in a row. A huge thank you to all of YOU and big congrats to the entire devoted team of Junoon who worked diligently for this honor."

 – www.facebook.com/VikasKhannaGroup

Also see: amritsar food trail

Amritsar food trail

Clockwise from top left: Emblematically Amritsar... milkman with valtohi or brass milk-can; jalebi at Katra Ahluwalia;the authentic Amritsari kulcha; gulab jamun at Sharma Sweet Shop off Lawrence Road;Rana's fruit cream stall at Lohgarh Road; just-can't-be-missed kesar lassi at Ahuja Milk Bhandar in Dhab Khatikan; batter-coated Amritsari fried fish; peethi-poori at Kanha Sweets on Lawrence Road; and aloo tikki

There’s a popular Punjabi idiom: Tthid naa payayieen rotian te sabay gallan khotiyaan… If there’s no food in the stomach, everything looks fake. Somehow in Amritsar nothing ever looks fake; there’s always something in the stomach here! 

Amritsar is a city where food is passion. Who would know it better than local boy chef Vikas Khanna. ”If you ask anyone in Amritsar, ‘Kithon aa rahe ho… where are you coming from?’ chances are the person will say, ‘Main roti kha ke aa rehan haan…I’ve just had lunch and come’. For us Ambarsaris food reigns supreme,” he says in a matter of fact way as we begin the food trail organised as part of the launch of his new book, Amritsar: Flavours of a Golden City. Later, amiable Balraj Kang, District Tourist Officer, gives us his take on his city. “Adha Amritsar khaan vich mast rehnda hai, adha pakaan vich… half the city is busy in eating the other half in cooking.” 

In a city like that how could we stay away from food for too long. Let’s get on to the tastes we savoured at spots that were the chef’s personal picks. Most were established names, some dating back almost 90 years. Recipes from some of these eateries feature in his book too. 

Our first stop was for an appetizing breakfast consisting of peethi-poori, chhole, aloo launji, gur kara and lassi. The pooris were the piece de resistance. Mini footballs these, their size made most of us feel we wouldn’t go beyond one. But one bite and we couldn’t stop at one. Crisp and flavourful these looked deceptively oil-free! Of the accompaniments, the aloo launji was the tangy surprise. The sweetness of sugar had been blended delightfully with the sourness of tamarind to create this wonderful potato curry worthy of repeats.       

Here’s where:

Kanha Sweets, Lawrence Road

Taste-o-meter: 9/10

The chef had warned us to keep space for his favourite flat gulab jamun available next door. The lot of us arrived at the hole in the wall to be met by Sharmaji, who was busy stirring milk in his gigantic kadhai. The chef presented him with his new book, showering praises on his fare. Cameras buzzed and questions flew but Sharmaji remained unmoved by all the attention; his focus was purely on the milk. To which chef Khanna said, “This is passion! At this moment the man does not care who we are. His only concern is the milk which needs his top priority. A newbie chef would have rushed for a photo-op with me, but not him. He is totally involved. And that’s the first lesson for success in any profession.” 
Here’s where: 
Sharma Sweet House, Off Lawrence Road

Taste-o-meter: 7.5/10

Post the morning food session we proceeded for a heritage walk. Having burnt a few calories and sweated suitably under a blazing noon sun we were ready for another tryst with taste. It was time for lassi at one of the most popular places in town. Looking at the size of the glass, like most others in the group, I asked for the quantity to be reduced to one-third. No sooner than had we gulped it down that we were asking for refills. It was the best I had ever had. The kesar lassi gets my top vote. I tasted the masala paneer too, and relished its melt-in the-mouth texture. I got some packed for home and blissfully it survived the heat and dust.  

Here’s where:

Ahuja Milk Bhandar, Dhab Khatikan

Taste-o-meter: 9/10

This is one place our group missed visiting. But it should definitely be on the list of anyone coming into Amritsar. Maqbool Road’s kulcha-wala Sardarji is a legend and his stuffed kulcha is truly “all-India fames”, as his board once said before it was corrected to “Famous”!  Now there is no board, I hear. He ain’t in need of any. The Sardarji consistently gets his kulcha right and is known to shut shop, a true-blue roadside eatery, as soon as his kneaded flour gets over, which could be as soon as 3 pm. So…

Right click on image to see
published version

The test of a perfect kulcha lies in its crackle: once it’s out of the tandoor and on to your plate (glazed with a tempting dollop of butter) all you need to do is hold it in your hand and lightly crush it. If it gives a crackling sound you’ve got an ace, if not, another address needs to be tried. In flavour it should be flaky, crisp and moist. Besides the dough mix and the low-fire  tandoor that gives it its distinct flavour, it’s also the gheou (ghee) that does the trick. Nothing succeeds like ghee and it’s not for nothing they say in these parts of the country: Sau daaroo tey ek gheou... Despite a hundred medicines, nothing can match the value of desi ghee. 

Here’s where:

Kulchawala, Maqbool Road

Taste-o-meter: 9.5/10
* I will also recommend the stuffed kulcha served at Holiday Inn, Amritsar (www.ihg.com), where I stayed. It was a winner in all respects. Once I had tasted it, everything else on the buffet ceased to exist.   

Our evening raid began on a snacky note with papdi-chat, aloo-tikki, bhel etc. The place was the popular Brijwasi Chat on Cooper Road. I found the stuff here below par, the aloo tikki being the only redeeming item. This joint gets my thumbs down.

Soon it was time for some kukad-shukad, meat te machhi. Though locals have a lot of personal favourites for tandoori chicken, keema naan and Amritsari fish, these neighbours are popular spots.   

Here’s where (on Majitha Road):  

Beera Chicken House

Taste-o-meter: 8/10

Makhan Fish

Taste-o-meter: 7.5/10

Prepared in a wooden balti 

We had eaten, actually seen, enough fare for a day. By the time we reached the fruit  cream stalls it was around 10 pm and we were quite satiated. The genial Balraj Singh insisted on us trying out this “different stuff”. How different  could good ol’ fruit cream be? Oh! It surely was. Another one-of-its-kind of Amritsar. It was not the fruit cream I had grown up eating at the Army messes. Nor was it the kind Grandpa liked Granny to make when he had his buddies over. It was, as Balraj ji said, “different”. And delicious. A nutty fruit cream, stuffed as it was with nuts, cashews most, and no banana (as most glow-signs in the vicinity mentioned), it was delicately sweet, lightly creamy and had a crunch in every bite. It was prepared the way the old-style balti-ice cream was, and magically, despite it being whisked pure cream, one never felt that unsavoury hint of milk-fat sticking to the palate. 
Here’s where:

Rana (fruit cream), Lohgarh Road

Taste-o-meter: 9.5/10

The trip was on an invitation by Roli Books and Punjab Heritage & Tourism Promotion Board 

BBC Good FOOD India: Malopolska

Eat like a local 
Malopolska
From artisan cheese to home-brewed liquor, it is all about the good life in this southern Polish region

In a picturesque pocket of Poland lies the sparkling region of Malopolska. A mosaic of quaint villages, Renaissance towns, lavish palaces, towering castles, rich forests, the alpine Tatra mountains and the fertile Vistula valley, so complete is it in itself that it’s often called Little Poland. A mix of diverse geography and rich history is found on its platters that are always served with cheer.

Hearty, unfussy and infused with natural flavours and colours, the strength of Małopolska cuisine lies in using fresh ingredients. Meals are centered around sour or cream-enriched soups and stews (Bigos or Hunter’s Stew is considered the national dish); a selection of breads; braised, cured or roasted meats; pickled vegetables and fruity desserts. Cooking owes it tastes to root vegetables as well as mild spices, particularly marjoram, caraway, dill and poppy seeds. A remarkable variety of kielbasa or sausages (lisiecka is considered culinary perfection), smoked or fresh, spice up the fare. When paired with home-brewed traditional Polish vodka, beer or fruit wines, these are perfect accompaniments for ‘Na Zdrowie’ or raising a toast.  

Quintessentially, ingredients from the fields and forests go into the pans, are cooked with love and relished together by the family. Every meal is a celebration, and endearingly, despite winds of change, like in India, babka (granny) nostalgia is evoked when conversation veers around food. Almost anyone you meet will have their favourite babka recipes to share. It’s no wonder then that one of the most-loved yeast cakes across Poland is simply called ‘Babka’.

The day’s main repast is obiad or dinner and it’s eaten anytime between 12 noon and 4 pm. If it is later than that it’s obiadokolacja or ‘lunchsupper’. In between there’s drugie sniadanie or second breakfast. A leisurely obiad is usually a three-course affair, and  favourites mains include kaczka z jablkami (baked duck with apples and cranberry sauce), kotlet schabowy (breaded pork cutlet) and golabki (cabbage leaves stuffed with a meat and rice). Freshwater fish as trout or salmon are enjoyed too.    

The trade in Baltic amber and salt — from its mines of Wieliczka and Bochnia — particularly enriched Malopolska with assorted culinary customs, one of these was the dumpling that’s now the Polish favourite pierogi. Each region has its version and Malopolska is famed for the classic Pierogi Ruskie that’s simply filled with potato, onion and cheese. It can be a snack or meal in itself. Never steamed (“that’s Chinese”, you are told), these half-moons are always boiled and garnished with a sprinkling of fried onions or browned breadcrumbs, chives and sour cream. Some do prefer it fried.

One of its cousin is the tiny uszka, Polish for 'little ears', that’s prepared with wild mushrooms. These are eaten dunked into the traditional barszcz, a ruby-red complexioned beetroot sour soup. Each season packs pierogi with different stuffing. Summer menus especially offer a variety of fruit fillings, from strawberries and cherries to forest blueberries and orchard-fresh apples. Traditionally, the rolled-out dough is cut into circles using a glass tumbler and whether its star-hotels or farmer homes, everyone adheres to that age-old custom. The singular is pierog, but rarely used, for you can’t just eat one.

Flavoursome soups and wholegrain breads are table regulars and often both use a common ingredient: rye flour. Sour soups are a Slavic tradition, and of the appetizing Zurek it’s said, there are as many recipes as there are homes in Poland. What they all agree on, however, is its homemade sourdough starter zakwas prepared with fermented rye flour. Zurek is often called 'yesterday's menu soup' as a whole lot of raw leftovers are tossed in along with fresh biala kielbasa or white sausage, garlic and mushrooms. Commercially always served in an arresting bread bowl, it’s a lightly tart, creamy-textured soup. An optional sliced hard-boiled egg in it is a treat to the eyes and palate.

Malopolska’s cuisine remains incomplete without the mention of the scenic highlands of Podhale, in the Tatra foothills of the Carpathian Mountain. This is the region that produces the distinct spindle-shaped oscypek, a smoked sheep-milk cheese. Every Tatran worth his cheese will definitely have it on the kitchen shelves, and a grilled oscypek is as gourmet as it gets. Over the years, the cylindrical golka, made with cow's milk, the sour and nutty tasting sheep-milk bundz and the soft, pungent bryndza cheese have gained in reputation.

The celebrated culinary traditions of the Austro-Hungarian Empire have had an enormous influence on Malopolska as has Jewish cooking. So along with strudel, schnitzel, gingerbread and torte, the holiszki as golabki, latkes as placki ziemniaczane or potato pancake etc have also become a part of its repertoire. Borrowing from the French is noticeable too, especially in the all-time-favourite kremowka. This is flavoured creme patissiere between two layers of puff-pastry and, interestingly, has become part of a neo-legend. In 1999, during a trip back home to Wadowice, near Krakow, Pope John Paul II mentioned being fond of it. Overnight the dessert got re-branded ‘kremowka papieska’ or ‘papal cream cake’.  

Though most Malopolska foodstuff has reached department stores there is nothing quite like tasting it in its place of origin, the original way.

 Click here to read complete piece and recipes of 

1 Barszcz Czysty Czerwony

2 Placki Ziemniaczane

3 Pierogi ruskie

4Traditional Polish piernik

Published in BBC Good Food India, September 2014  

Section: eat away

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India Today Travel Plus, Sept 2014

                                                                                  
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