La Liga: Uno numero

Messi magic enthralled the world at the Wembley on May 28 as the mercurial striker once again lead Barcelona to victory, this time around in the prestigious UEFA Champions League final, confirming the status of (Spanish) La Liga as premier among European leagues. Football 
is truly a different ball game as compared to other sport and little else compares to watching the best in action LIVE! Here's sharing my recent experience of witnessing action of 
Spanish league 'futbol' and its growing popularity in India

V-a-l-e-n-c-i-a, V-a-l-e-n-c-i-a! The chant would reach a crescendo and then dip to a hush. Its cadence had the harmony of conducted orchestra. In a way, it was being orchestrated, by two sets of eleven men on a green field chasing a white ball. Every move of theirs was akin to the conductor’s baton, and every move produced a piece of music, both on field, where each action had the grace of a band of instrumentalists, and off-field in the spectator stands, where cheers and chants synchronised in perfect chorus.

I was at the Mestella Stadium in coastal Valencia, absorbed in watching a Premier Division match of the Spanish professional football league, usually referred to as La Liga, one of the most exciting sport leagues globally. With its dauntingly-steep terraced seating arrangement accommodating a capacity crowd of 55,000, the Mestella—home turf of Valencia Club de Futbol—is acknowledged for whipping up an electrifying
atmosphere unmatchable in all Europe. I was a witness to that stimulating ambience on the Sunday when home team Valencia took on Villareal. It was a crucial tie, where a win for Valencia would strengthen its hold on the all-important third place in the Spanish league, giving the team a direct entry into the qualifying round of next season’s UEFA Champions League, Europe’s uno numero tournament played by its top soccer clubs.

The European spectator, I’d heard, takes his soccer seriously and is a keen observer of field play. And so it was. Around me was a capacity crowd completely clued into the action and watching every move with an intensity associated with a chess tourney! Their reactions were perfectly timed: whether it was the resounding cheering when a team made brilliant moves to reach the goal post and mange to score; the chanting to
encourage their players; or jeering when they felt the referee had goofed. That night it was advantage home-team, and Valencia trounced Villareal 5-0. Watching the goal feast live spelled delight for my group of fellow travellers and I, who had turned Valencia loyalists almost immediately upon taking seats inside the stadium. Our local guide Miguel, a proud Valencian, didn’t need to prod us to support his side; the fervour of the
followers of the game having converted us into fans, and over the next few days in Spain we were scouting around for Valencia souvenirs! It goes without saying, a soccer match experience when touring the country is highly recommended.

I was pleasantly surprised at the level of crowd concentration, which came as quite a contrast to all my previous experiences of being part of live sporting action, usually cricket, in India, where typically the majority is a carefree, star (read cricketer)-stuck spectator. Of what I’ve seen, the Calcutta fan comes closest to his European counterpart for the gravitas he attaches to any game he watches. I felt it is the power-packed performance in all of 90 minutes that instills such passion into the crowd. It’s not for nothing that football is called ‘the beautiful game’ When players are on song, the moves are lyrical and a high quality show will always elicit a response of similar caliber.

In India we lack such performances, the reason only big ticket events draw the crowds. Even the country’s most popular sport had to repackage itself as a slam-bang T-20 format to get the crowd coming in, even as the once-celebrated league-format Ranji Trophy event languishes. In contrast European league soccer is intense-paced and over the past few years gained immense viewership across India. The yet largely-urbane trend started in the metros with uber sport bars and cafes installing plasma screens to telecast sporting action, and it spread to other cities as café culture grew. Stars of European leagues in Spain, Italy, Germany etc have developed a relatively sizeable fan-following and it’s all set to grow with sport channels constantly beaming live action.

 And it’s not restricted to gender. A Delhi-based colleague on the Spain trip eagerly picked up Real Madrid memorabilia for her 14-year-old daughter when we visited its home ground, the Santiago Bernabeu Stadium, considered a ‘pilgrimage place’ in Madrid. Incidentally, the spectacular achievement of the club makes a visit here truly special for a sport buff; and I felt had the security at the stadium not been tough, the ground would have been bereft of turf, with ardent fans wanting to take a bit of the grass along! Another highlight of the stadium is its chic eatery, the Realcafe Bernabeu that allows a ringside view of the stadium, albeit only on non-match days. It serves fusion and Mediterranean cuisine at surprisingly affordable prices and also an assortment of quality wines. Food apart, the scrumptious highlight remains the unrestricted sight of the stadium and visualizing the euphoria when packed. The Real Museum is another glittering gallery of achievements to walk through.

The contest among Spanish clubs is fierce and so is fan allegiance. But on May 28, when Manchester United took on Barcelona in the 2011 edition of the Champions League final at the Wembley, all Spanish inter-club rivalry was put on hold to support only one name…Barcelona! And miles away, in many cities of India, cheering fans donned T-shirts of the teams and watched two sets of eleven men chase the white ball to net goal after goal (3-1) to lift the prestigious trophy.

Indian folk art: Gond

Published in Deccan Herald, May 2011

Mohali bonhomie

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CHENNAI, April 9, 2011

Updated: April 9, 2011 19:34 IS

Pix: AP
If a sport like cricket can bind and ease tensions between the two countries, why can't we channelise this energy into a more constructive form, asks Brinda Suri after watching the high-energy clash in Mohali.


THE Indian cricket lexicon just got a few worthy additions: Dhoni's Devils, Wankhede, April 2, 2011. It was 28 years ago when the first few entries had appeared, on a magical June 25, 1983. The ICC World Cup win has unveiled a new set of champions but there's no stealing the thunder from the Original XI, a certain rough-diamond Kapil Dev and his Daredevils, those magnificent men in white whose acts of bravado have found immortal space in the tote bag of sporting legends. Who dared to go where no Indian had been before, to forever change the fortune of cricket in the country.

A political tool?

Since that incredible triumph at Lord's cricket in India has seen a metamorphosis to divine status, has a few gods to boast about and is a potent tool in many a money-spinning formulae. That it can play a role in political diplomacy as well was seen during the India-Pakistan semifinal, an encounter which in many ways was the juiciest in this edition.

Even as the country revels in the Mumbai win, the high-voltage Mohali clash remains of special significance. It should be of interest to rewind and take a look at some of the subtle moments connected with it that contributed to its now-famous bonhomie, the emotion of which managed to draw a tad-romanticised statement from India Foreign Secretary Nirupama Rao who said, “It would be appropriate to say that this time a ‘Mohali spirit' pervaded the Indo-Pak relationship.” On-field the ‘Mohali spirit' showed itself in heartwarming gestures…when Pakistan skipper Shahid Afridi had a buddy handshake with his Indian counterpart before the toss or when he grinned and patted Sachin Tendulkar on the shoulder just after failing to take his wicket owing to a dropped catch. It was instances like these that made the much-touted ‘war' just another game between two professional sides. Off-field there was much more. 

Replete with ingredients of a thriller, the March 30 tie was a sell-out. Besides the high-profile guests — a cheerful veneered Pakistan PM Yosuf Raza Gilani, an expectedly unanimated Indian PM Manmohan Singh and a surprisingly animated Sonia Gandhi; there was a bevy of familiar faces from the Bombay film fraternity, sundry ministers and corporate honchos. Private jets were supposed be ferrying the A-list, for the aam aadmi the Indian Railways ran a special train from Delhi to Chandigarh, and hotels were booked to capacity. It was Mohali's day in the sun. I was not scheduled to be at this mother of all matches, its tickets having sold out almost as soon as they were announced. As news of an India-Pakistan tie got confirmed the little piece of paper was the hottest property, with reports of it being crookedly traded for five figure amounts. Luck came my way when a cousin couldn't make it and grudgingly handed me the coveted terrace-block ticket.

Setting the mood

The air was fragrant with that lovely balminess of Punjab's pre-spring, the turf was a verdant carpet and in the packed PCA Stadium stands there was palpable energy, all crackling and electric. Making it more of a party were bhangra-pop songs booming on the microphone and dhol players drumming up the beat at regular intervals. The feisty crowd was here to watch a high-quality game and have a good time. Amongst them were 100-odd, men, women and children, who had walked across the Wagah border to cheer their Men in Green. And confidently raising its head time and again amidst the sea of Tricolour was the fluttering Green-White crescent-star. Every time it went up a hurrah erupted from some corner of the 26,000-plus crowd. The Pakistani was not an enemy here. He was a fair contender and the sporting Mohali crowd applauded a fine shot whichever side it came from. 

The opponent and its supporters were the cynosure of all eyes. Afridi received the biggest round of applause when his playing XI was announced, Wahab Riaz got an ovation for his succulent five-wicket haul and sitting-in-the-pavilion Shoaib Akhtar's autograph was most sought- after. In the stands their beautiful women, bespoke for the fashion ramp, stood out for their stylish attire — near-ankle length kurta, trouser and flowing dupatta — which made them worthy of a pictorial spread in the next day's newspapers. Hogging the limelight separately and obliging enthusiastic Indians with a photo a minute was Cricket Chacha or white- bearded Abdul Jalil, Pakistan's 61-year-old lucky mascot from Sialkot dressed in his trademark green, for whom this was “the biggest match” he was witnessing.

Punjabi by nature

This was Punjab and the multitude had its brand of zest in tact. Mukesh Ambani may be amongst India's richest but when he appeared at earshot distance from the crowd he was greeted the bum-chum way: "Oye Ambani! Wadhiya…all is well?" His wife Nita, though, was respectfully called “Bhabhiji”! Comic irreverence is part of the Punjabi fabric, but there was no room for the offensive here. A group of college boys occupying seats alongside mine were typically vivacious and happy-go-lucky. They had been wildly cheering but hadn't attracted the television cameras yet. “And that's a big shame,” they felt. The situation was being gravely pondered over till one of them said “We need to make the right noises. Let's flay them." No sooner than had he mouthed it that a volley of voices berated him: “Khabardaar, mehmaan ne saade… Don't you dare, they are our guests.”

No one had drilled the Ps and Qs into those young, cheeky heads, it was a natural response. Similarly, no one told the people of Punjab to open their homes to those from across the border as hotels were booked. No one told Raju, the little boy who was painting flags on cheeks of spectators, not to charge the Pakistanis. No one told restaurateurs in Chandigarh to request the guests not to ask for a bill. No one told the grand old Punjabi lady to approach a group of Lahore women, whom she spotted in the market a day after the match, with, “Aao, ghar charan pao… Come, grace my home.” It's a hospitable temperament not uncommon at a people-to-people level, which can ease relationships and let the two countries channelise their energies into more constructive issues. If only there's a political will… Cricket diplomacy has once again set the ball rolling. Will it get converted into valuable partnerships or as usual be stumped?

Published in The Hindu, April 2011

http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article1608082.ece

Srinagar & Leh: Of domes and minarets

Srinagar: Juma Masjid

Held in the embrace of snow-capped massifs in the folds of the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges, two distinct civilizations emerged within a few hundred km of each other in the Indian subcontinent to give the world an absorbing culturescape to explore. Though grouped under one province, the cold desert-plateau of Ladakh and the valley of Kashmir are chalk and cheese and a journey across their dividing mountains is a picture of stunning contrasts. Diverse geography shaped the lives of the two people and defined their architecture. Remarkably, religion too was deeply linked with societal changes and the region’s shrines present an evocative expression of that.

Buddhism and Islam are the two dominating religions and cross-cultural influences, particularly Central Asian, are evident in structures of both faiths. To a visitor, whereas monasteries and pagodas will come across as familiar in appearance it’s mosques and ziarats that make for an intriguing study, standing apart from the customary domed images.  

Kashmir: Aesthetic Central 

It’s often said, preachers and invaders have shaped the history of Kashmir. Besides a lot else, their legacy is seen in the incredible architecture dotting Srinagar, especially the older parts of town that exude a medieval air. Central Asian influence replaced Hinduism-Buddhism with Islam and also redefined its structural design. Brickwork was borrowed, timber detailing stepped in for stone, buildings became cubical and slender, and roofs emerged as the most distinguishing feature: conical or pyramidal finials atop the main structure. In some cases a few conical caps overlap, and are considered a classical European influence.

The pick amongst Srinagar’s shrines is the Khanqah-e-Moulla, a dedication to Iranian sufi Shah Hamadan who’s credited with sowing the seed of Islam in the Valley. Originally built in AD 1395 and rebuilt the third time in AD 1731, it embodies elements of Kashmir’s artistic competence. A quaint square structure in wood, its elegance is visible in the papier-mâché ceiling and distinctive latticed windows.

The Juma Masjid in Nowhatta is another significant pyramidal-roofed edifice. Fine brickwork marks it four identical gateways and the highlight of its large interiors is 370 pillars, each being a single deodar tree trunk. Almost all areas in old Srinagar have a dedication of sort. Khanyar is known for the ziarats of Dastgeer Sahib and Naqashband Sahib, two saints who did not visit the Valley but whose word spread here through their followers who brought their relics and built the memorials. These shrines are defined by a set of green conical roofs, glass windows and khatamband (square wood pieces) ceiling. Two noticeable features around most shrines in Srinagar is the space for feeding pigeons and the series of halwai shops.

Further away, at the base of Hari Parbat, the Makhdoom Sahib ziarat is another immensely revered spot. On the banks of the Dal Lake and looking distinctly different from this line-up is the domed Hazratbal.

There’s a tranquil magnetism about these shrines and in many way it’s their structures that exude a peaceful aura.   

Leh: Jama Masjid

Ladakh: Nature's Canvas 

In contrast to the fertile landscape of Kashmir, harsh and inaccessible topography determined the architecture of Ladakh. Buildings are terraced and box like with flat roofs and small windows, a design that counters severe temperatures. The material used is mud, stone, timber, all locally available and suitable for an area with scanty rainfall.

Similar to Tibet in terrain and tradition, Ladakh was most influenced by it. Central Asian influences began creeping in with Leh developing as a major trading centre on the Silk Route. As acknowledgment for their role in boosting economy, around AD 1640 land began being offered to traders, usually from Kashmir, to settle in Leh. Permission was also given to build a mosque; and Masjid Sharif in Chutayrangtak area is reportedly Leh’s oldest. Mosque façades seamlessly blended with their surroundings with subtle elements distinguishing them, as less ornate windows when compared to Buddhist structures. 

Talking about the slant towards symbolisation of Islam and its affect on local architecture, Leh-based eminent historian and author, Abdul Ghani Sheikh says, “Today the influence of Turko-Iranian elements—dome and minaret—are conspicuous in the two main mosques in Leh, the Jama Masjid in Main Bazaar and the Shi'a Imamia Masjid a little ahead. These changes surfaced in the 20th century. Prior to this there was no difference between a Muslim and Buddhist building, with both following conventional architecture. The mosques at best had a small, slender wooden crown, not as prominent as the Turko-onion domes."

Sheikh's collection of essays, 'Reflections on Ladakh, Tibet and Central Asia' (2010), is an insightful work on trans-region influences. In the chapter 'Islamic architecture in Leh' he has narrated legends of the Namgyal dynasty that ruled Ladakh and their role in the peaceful co-existence of Islam and Buddhism. "Intermarriages between Muslims from Baltistan and Buddhists of Ladakh were not considered out of place, with there being a tradition of each partner following his/her own faith. In fact this was the case till quite recently in Ladakh,” Sheikh enlightens, adding, “The most illustrious alliance dates back to the 17th century when King Jamyang Namgyal of Ladakh tied the knot with princess Gyal Khatun, daughter of the Shi'a king of Khaplu, Baltistan. Khatun remained a Muslim, but her son Senge Namgyal, became the most distinguished Buddhist ruler of Ladakh.”

Peace and preservation

There was, and still continues to be, a high level of tolerance between communities in Leh and this has a lot to do with no historical baggage of animosity despite concessions made between rulers of different faiths. “In AD 1681 when the Mongols invaded Ladakh, Mughal assistance was sought to deal with the enemy. Aurangzeb’s Mughal forces under Nawab Fidai Khan crushed the raid; and as a price Ladakhi king Deldan Namgyal granted land for a mosque to Sunni Muslims at the foot of the Leh Palace. This is where the Jami’a or Jama Masjid stands today,” explains Sheikh.

The wave of religious zeal has played a role in changing the four walls of worship. On the other hand, it’s a passion for preservation that has seen the restoration of the oldest mosque in Leh to near-original shape. Once in a dilapidated condition, the Masjid Sharif, known as Tsas Soma or New Garden Mosque, has been painstakingly restored by the Tibetan Heritage Fund International. It’s replete with Ladakhi elements as pillars, paper lamps, roof waterproofing with mar-kalag mud or butter-mud, wood floors etc.

As a connect between the two cultures stands the now-restored Shey mosque, said to be the first in Ladakh and built by Shah Hamadan. Following his decade-long stay in Kashmir, he departed for Central Asia, en route stopping in Ladakh. The mosque has both Kashmiri and Ladakhi features and gets its share of worshippers and travellers alike.

Quick facts:

Road: The Manali-Leh route is open from June to September and the Leh–Srinagar road between May to October.

For more info: www.jktourism.org

Published in JetWings, April 2011

Dignity in the face of tragedy

Photo: AP 
The quake-tsunami double blow in north-eastern Japan has wrecked a country and scarred innumerable lives. Yet, even in the midst of unprecedented disaster, the people have reacted calmly, picking up the pieces, with a quiet resolve to rebuild their lives again, says BRINDA SURI
             
It's been labelled the country's worst tragedy since World War II. The 8.9-magnitude earthquake — one of the largest in recorded history — that hit north-eastern Japan and the 23-feet tsunami it triggered has left a trail of devastation in its wake. Weeks after Ferocious Friday some numbers continue to haunt: 7,653 dead; 11,746 missing; 4,50,000 rendered homeless.

The Japanese are familiar with natural disasters and are trained periodically in handling an onslaught and ways of evacuation. Statistics speak of a tremor occurring somewhere in the country about every five minutes with annually there being up to 2,000 quakes. No amount of comprehensive preparation, though, proved enough for the recent calamity of colossal proportion.
Nature's fury swept aside every safeguard in place to counter such eventualities and it was horrific what the Japanese went through. Many perished in split seconds and those who escaped the wrath pleaded for aid in every possible way. Within minutes of the earthquake, Shiori Lynn Yamamoto, resident of Sendai, the coastal city closest to the epicentre, reached out through Facebook. According to her acquaintance Ang (name changed), “She actually posted (on the wall) during the earthquake for someone to please help her. She didn't want to die. She said it was a nightmare. I was horrified but she finally posted again several hours later saying she survived and was ok.” The catastrophe has lead to an outpouring of grief from around the world. “I am sorry for the losses in Japan. I grew up in an earthquake zone and have been in some big ones, but nothing like this. I and everyone one known to me is shocked” — Comment left on a news website. “Koji Sato, a carpenter who usually builds homes, is making coffins” — Tweet quoting an agency report from the flattened hamlet of Shizugawa, Miyagi prefecture, one of the worst affected regions.
Strong willpower
The quake-tsunami double blow wrecked parts of a beautiful country and scarred lives. It couldn't, however, crack the inherent willpower or destroy the strength of character of its beautiful people. A people who have stayed admirably calm under chaos and begun regrouping forces to rebuild what they have lost. Most eyewitness accounts from the affected zones spoke about residents experiencing power outages, shortage of drinking water and food but there being no panic, arson or emotional breakdown, as reported from other countries where similar disasters have struck. An RIA-Novosti news despatch from Miyagi movingly said: “One small shop can serve as a good example of what is going on in the city. The shop has all its windows and its glass door broken. There is an ATM and shelves with food products inside and no one is guarding it. However, nothing has been looted.” It's a temperament reflecting a society that cares for its neighbour.
This is precisely what I observed during my trip to Japan a month back. It was not the country's technical competence which endeared, it was its people. They displayed dignity, discipline and a genuine desire to assist.
Strength of character
I see the same characteristics now in moments of tremendous misery and loss coupled with having to adjust in dealing with hitherto unheard of struggles like power breakdown, disrupted train schedules and the fear of nuclear radiation. Shedding light on this trait, Ms. Nobuko Horibe, Director, United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA), Asia-Pacific zone, says, “We Japanese live on about 20 per cent land; the rest being mountainous. This living environment necessitates us to be considerate to others and keep good harmony in a community. From kindergarten to elementary school and onward, your performance is measured by how your group performs; and if you are better than other members you are expected to help others, so that no one in the group is left out.” Explaining further, she says, “Japanese are not expressive people, they show restraint and are polite. Thinking of others and selflessness first is considered a virtue. In trouble, they look after each other. They also tend to internalise anger and sorrow. Yes, closely-knit social norms and systems may be stifling at times, but it works well in emergencies.”
I found the Japanese are trusting as well and largely have faith in the government, that it's doing its best. Moreover they have belief in themselves. “We will bounce back. We always do,” Shizo Suzuki, a 22-year-old steward with an international airline, smilingly put it all in perspective.


Published in The Hindu, Sunday Magazine, March 27, 2010
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2011/03/27/stories/2011032750040100.htm
http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article1573873.ece
http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article1573880.ece

Sunday Magazine Mail Bag (April 3, 2010)

http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article1594107.ece?mstac=0
Lessons from Japan

“Dignity in the face of tragedy” by Brinda Suri (March 27) conveyed well the intensity of the disaster and the capacity of human race and the Japanese in particular to leave behind tragedies and move ahead. The Japanese people have in the last 70 years accepted more than their share of natural calamities and man-made devastations and proved that they have an in-built ability to survive crises and move forward and they will come out of the present crisis also. But the world conscience which has been showing only pedestrian apathy to man-made tragedies should at this point of time introspect as to how much of the devastation and future risks arising out of nuclear radiation are avoidable. Such an introspection can be made meaningful by a World Conference at the United Nations to consider, among others, a review of the present stock of nuclear arsenal with various countries vis-à-vis their likely use and possibility of reducing it to an acceptable (read manageable) level and safety measures to prevent potential threats including radioactive leaks from the present stock of nuclear arsenal. The present crisis has shown how helpless modern science is, before the angry nature. The after-effects are more tragic and long-lasting because of our greed and haste in making the rich and the powerful enjoy more comforts.

M.G. Warrier

Thiruvananthapuram

This refers to the various articles, painting the devastation besieging Japan in recent times and how well the Japanese are recuperating to rebound from the ashes. Among the many lessons that can be learned from the behaviour of the Japanese during their hour of distress, one appealed to me the most. The eyewitness account by Capt. Ashis Dutta shows how well the Japanese have redefined the meaning of hospitality and expanded its horizons. In sharing the concerns of an employee who is a foreign national and sanctioning timely leave travel assistance, his Japanese bosses have added a tinge of humanity to hospitality, which has become a far too commercialised term in modern times. The November 2006 suicide of Mr. Lee Ben, project manager in Kuala Lumpur-based PATI company , executing a multi-crore World Bank road project in Kerala, due to delayed payment of dues by the Kerala government and the consequent mental turmoil, should serve as an eye-opener as to how well our corrupt policies affect foreign professionals working in India. Our behaviour during an emergency towards foreigners, let alone our own country men, when law and order situations break could be disastrous.

Thomas Boban Mattathil

New Delhi

The article reveals the determination of the Japanese to bounce back and come back with more dignity. Present day Japan was built out of determined hard work and discipline from vacuum created out of the Second World War mishaps. The admirable thing is that there is no loot, arson or any other breakdown amidst the distressing situation, as happens in many countries including India. The Japanese, prone to quakes and eventual tragedies, never lose heart and perhaps this is the most prominent factor of their success.

C.P. Velayudhan Nair

North Edapally, Kerala

It was amazing to see the calmness and will-power that Japanese exhibited during the time of recent earthquake and tsunami. Natural calamities are almost routine for the Japanese and they seem to have the survival instincts ingrained in them. The personal accounts of Captain Ashish Dutta and Anuj Jodhani gave insight into the fact that the Japanese follow rules and regulations even at an hour of crisis, thus helping to reduce the human tragedy. Don't we all have a lesson or two to learn from these Japanese people?

Deepa Nagaraj

Bengaluru

When placed in a most critical situation, man displays his essential inherent characteristics. The selflessness or the concern for others one witnessed in the deluge that devoured the Japanese city would have been the manifestation of this altruism. But one thing is certain. The nation shall soon emerge like a rising sun from the debris.

N. Sadasivan Pillai

Guntakal

Nature's fury swept away every safeguard in place to counter such eventualities and it was horrific. And the unprecedented havoc happened with entire properties washed way, thousands dead and many thousands rendered homeless. But when we see “Dignity in the face of tragedy” we salute this wonderful people for their character, will and wisdom. There is no loot, no blame. With discipline, dignity, decorum, calm, collected and care for the neighbour they move forward looking at the future. Japan will bounce back. As we lathi-charge our people who come to purchase tickets to see the cricket match, can we learn from and copy an iota of their character?

Jacob Sahayam

Thiruvananthapuram

Beyond Srinagar: Portraits of a Valley

Silently-busy morning on the water highways of Kashmir 

Somewhere in between the glamorous and the exaggerated lies the real cinema, a mirror to the world. Many stories of our times have been effectively projected by it and one of these is the script of an altering Kashmir. For the Indian film industry of the Sixties, Kashmir was the backdrop for almost all boy-meet-girl flicks, and one that famously captured the romance of the era was ‘Kashmir ki Kali’ and its classic song Yeh chand sa roshan chehra filmed on the beautiful Dal Lake with a dandy Shammi Kapoor wooing a coy Sharmila Tagore. Cut to present day cinema on Kashmir, and we have an inventory of militancy-centric films, be it the acclaimed Roja, Mission Kashmir, Sikandar or the now-awaited Harud. From portrayal of paradisiacal moments to screenplays of unrest, the canvas of Kashmir has unfortunately changed. What has, nonetheless, remained unchanged is its spellbinding natural beauty that unfailingly draws the traveller who usually returns thoroughly enchanted with a desire to revisit.

So enduring is this picturesque mosaic of Kashmir that nothing has managed to diminish its appeal, not even the trail of travails the land has been a witness to for over a decade now. In many ways, the popular snapshots owe their longevity to standard government websites and brochures; to the aforementioned era of Indian films that lavishly projected them on screen; and most of all to poetry the landscape evokes, enthralling commoner and royalty alike, leading a certain Jahangir to famously exclaim “If there’s paradise on earth, it’s here…” a quote that continues to sketch an alluring picture of the Valley.

Popular postcards

Tulip Garden: In bloom between mid-March & end-April

Think Kashmir and the first image to waltz into the mind is Srinagar’s Dal Lake with its elfin shikaras, followed by a sequence of frames which include, skiing in neighbouring Gulmarg, the lovely Lidder river frolicking through Pahalgam, the squinting-blue lakes and rainbow-coloured grasslands of Sonamarg etc. This is the well-known, oft-visited Kashmir. Lying quietly beyond are its relatively unknown pockets waiting to be explored.

Despite rampant urbanisation Srinagar remains a pretty spot with lots to charm a visitor. There’s its bouquet of Mughal Gardens (a worthy addition to this is the Tulip Garden off Dal Lake that’s in bloom from mid-March to end-April), traditional embodiments found at Downtown, inviting houseboats, the quintessential floating market, chinar-fringed golf-courses, and much more. It’s a fine base for several rewarding excursions too and the month ahead is ripe to set-out to make your own little discoveries.

Natural canvas

The Valley has distinctive biodiversity and one of the places to get familiar with it is at the seemingly-boundless Wular Lake (45 km appx), lying between the towns of Sopore and Bandipore. Considered among the continent’s largest fresh-water lake, the River Jhelum fills its basin before moving on. Wular’s ecosphere makes it home for a remarkable variety of avifauna and the fag-end-winter temperature of March is still a good time for birding enthusiasts to get acquainted with the Central Asian migratory population that nestles in its waters. For birders, another notable habitat is the Hokersar wetland (12 km), where encroachments and gun-shots had affected arrivals, but recent reports suggest increased avian landings. While on the fauna trail, the Dachigam National Park (23 km) is an unspoiled landscape to visit. If fortune is on your side there will be a chance of spotting its most prized resident, the endangered hangul (Kashmiri stag), the only species of red deer found in the country.

The tapestry of Kashmir is filled with aqua hues of its myriad lakes, rivers and springs. These have influenced the region’s culture and been a muse for poets and artists. If driving into Kashmir, a few km after the NH 1A zips out of the Banihal Pass in the lap of the Pir Panjal Range, a few detours lead to a string of places with the ‘nag’ suffix, denoting ‘spots with spring- water’. These have been developed for tourism and among the line-up are Anantnag (known for the ancient Martand temple considered an architectural masterpiece), Kokernag (which as its name suggests has a spring whose waters spread like the claws of the cock) and Verinag (the source of River Jhelum). Standing a league apart and about 45 km off Anantnag towards Shopian, is the flamboyant Aharbal waterfall, said to be the Valley’s best. Its water originates at Kousernag and on reaching the rock crevice here lets out a roar as it cascades down 24 mt amidst a surrounding of sky-kissing deodars.

Lake trek: It's to be experienced 

Water trek and other trails

The landscape of the Valley with rolling hills and a network of waterways is ideal for the adventurer. Hiking and trekking paths appear almost magically and frequently as you drive into the countryside. Over the years some trails close to tourist spots have attracted their share of mountaineers, as Khilanmarg, Tangmarg, Drang, Alpather lake (all around Gulmarg) and Thajiwas Glacier, Gangabal Lake (both around Sonamarg). Amongst the newer spots, gaining in popularity is picturesque Yusmarg (47 km via Charar-e-Sharief) where the roaring River Doodh Ganga flows through its scenic meadow ringed by fir and snow-capped hills. Besides offering a lovely riverside locale perfect for old-world picnics and camping, this is the take-off spot for a number of treks, the favourite ones leading to Nilang Lake (4 km) and Sang-e-Safed peak (10 km).

The challenges of a surface trek notwithstanding, if time and budget permit one of the most splendid ways to get a real feel of Kashmir is to opt for a water trek by the shikara. It’s a sensory feast and a feasible two-night/three-day circuit is the Dal Lake-Manasbal Lake-Wular Lake-Nageen Lake round trip. This includes pitching tents by the lakeside at night, waking up under crystal blue skies to cups of kehwa and nun chai served with typical accompaniments as kulcha, tchzot, bakerkhaani (assorted breads), tucking into scrumptious local cuisine, and in essence getting to taste a slice of the slow life away from the world of i-pads and i-pods. If this tour were to be given a grade it would definitely figure in the top-twenty checklist of lifetime experiences.

Road and rail

Coming a close second in the listings of special experiences is a journey by train through the Valley. The railways arrival in 2008 generated widespread thrill and the tracks were made operational in parts over the next two years. With the entire 119-km rail-route now functional, it has given a new dimension to travel in the Valley. As the train chugs through the chinars from Baramulla to Qazigund, connecting north Kashmir with its southern tip in about 3.5 hours, it provides an incredible peek into a never-seen-before lifestyle.

There’s new flavour elsewhere too. Until recently the only road link between Kashmir and Jammu was via the NH 1A. That has changed with the opening of the much-awaited Mughal Road for light vehicular traffic. This centuries old route—traversing mountains over 11,000 ft and apparently preferred by Shah Jahan to reach Kashmir—connects Bafliaz-Poonch in the Jammu region with Shopian in the Valley. It’s a fair weather road and remains inoperative in winters but summers see a rush descend here to experience a drive on a path of history. The inaugural Mughal Road Rally has already set the pace and more voyages should follow.

It’s time for you too to pick your passion and enjoy a season when the Valley adorns colour after months of snow-white. You’ve seen it on reel. The real picture awaits an audience.

Quick facts:

Air: Daily from Delhi & Jammu; Railways: Jammu is the rail head for the region; Road: NH-1A connecting Jammu-Srinagar is an all-weather road. Taxis take around 8-10 hours for the distance. For more info: JKTDC Booking Office (0194-2457930, 2472644)

Published in JetWings, March 2011
http://www.jetairways.com/Uploads/e-Mag/Category/JetWings%20Domestic/March%202011/jetflash_content.html  (Page 59)

And in Srinagar: Frames from the Valley

Kashmiri? Drokpa? Brokpa? Whoever...She's pretty

The faithful at Khanqah-e-Moula

Tete a tete over tea at Dal Lake

On a school picnic at Shalimar Garden 

Looking out for some conversation

Vegetable vendor prepares for the day  

Basket-weaver near Hazratbal shrine 

Puff puff 

A puff here too, and a smile for the lens

Quintessential Srinagar 

Montreal, the double-decker city

 Le Palais des congrès de Montreal (Click on images to zoom)

Believe it or not: it is possible to live in a city, go to work, shop for daily provisions, visit the best entertainment spots and restaurants, commute by public transport…all this and more without ever having to set foot on the road. You don’t need to be chauffer driven door to door to be able to do that. In the double-decker city of Montreal that’s what more than half the population does, especially in the harsh months of winter when snow adds to the woes.

Montreal has the world’s largest underground city (also weather-proof/indoor city) that’s essentially a pedestrian network spread over 12 sq km and growing. La Ville Souterraine, as it’s known in French, in itself comes across as a never-ending maze of chic stores, even as it performs its key role of allowing access to about 1,700 establishments on the surface level, including offices, banks, boutiques, shopping malls, leading hotels, cinema, university, metro and train stations, as well as residential complexes in and around Downtown.

Statistically it sounded overpowering, and I looked forward to getting a feel of it. I was staying at Fairmont—The Queen Elizabeth, an elegant heritage property in the heart of Downtown and while flipping through its brochure what arrested my attention was: ‘Located above the train station (Via Rail & Amtrak) and connected to the extensive underground city…’ A train station beneath a luxury hotel, wow! The Fairmont chain was specifically built in the 19^th -20^th century as accommodation for train passengers, hence the hotels were always located next to a station. Leafing through more city literature gave me a decent grip on the underground network but the element of hassle-free connectivity continued to intrigue me. 

My first experience of Montreal’s urban under world happened quite accidentally, which had me anxious and enthralled concurrently. As I stepped into the hotel lift to get to my room I noticed the lift did not have the regular floor numbers (3-21). Instead it had S1 and S2. I was still trying to figure out what that was when another guest entered, smiled and pressed S2. I presumed this was one of those lifts that are up to a certain floor following which one has to shift to another. However, instead of the lift racing up, the arrow showed it going south. Perplexed, I tried asking the guest where we were headed. “No English. French,” he replied. In a matter of seconds we reached S2 and stepped out. He hurried-off and I pondered, trying to make sense of where I was. There was a food court in front of me and a general rush of people. I walked a little ahead and, lo and behold, it was the railway station! Systematic and smart, the bold signage indicated trains from Ottawa and Quebec were due and passengers had queued up for these. I had mistakenly taken the lift meant to connect with the underground city and at the moment I was two levels under on S2 or Sous-Soul (basement) Two. Pressing the S1 button would have taken me to the shopping level, Place Ville-Marie. If this wasn’t convenience, what was!  With the Fairmont hotel being centrally located, and having an unrestrictive, direct access (by both escalator and lift) with S1 and S2, it could have resulted in tempting passer-bys to use its routes turning it into a thoroughfare. Nonetheless, an inherent public discipline, ensures only hotel guests utilize it. 

The double-decker town plan has given Montreal the ‘two-in-one city’ moniker. I had experienced the under deck on the day of arrival and the next day set-off with my group on a surface tour of the city. We drove past a lot of sights, stopping to absorb the air at some outstanding ones. The quiet and quirky, hip-hop and happening, fashionable and conservative, contemporary and old world all came together within a few hours.  

For starters, the Olympic Tower (built to commemorate the 1976 Olympics) had eccentric tales about. The need was felt to give the city of Montreal a symbol and thus the highest inclined tower in the world was built. It’s another matter that the tower and its observatory were not completed for years till after the Olympics and the city till recently was paying for its construction by way of taxes. This scenario sounded familiar to our Indian group which felt it was revisiting the horrors of the 2010 Commonwealth Games.

From among the city’s many high-profile neighbourhoods the one considered the address is Plateau Mont-Royal. Packing a population high on creativity, it’s preferred by professionals and has the country’s largest concentration of artists. Defined by typical multi-coloured houses, outdoor staircases and small streets shaded by deciduous trees, it has funky boutiques, creative art galleries, stylish cafes; and it’s at the Plateau where the hip crowd likes to be seen.

A few streets away from the Fairmont we witnessed two worlds. At one end was Old Montreal, with its cobblestone streets, gracious 18^th-19th-century buildings, Notre-Dame Basilica, the old port, and horse-carriage rides that evoked a lingering romance of times as far back as 350 years. A few blocks, at its opposite end, was the buzzing Rue St Catherine, where style defined every bit of this renowned commercial street. Running 15 km east-west across the city it had up-to-the minute trends on display and haute couture ruled. With immense to makes the eyes wander and the wallets lighter it’s a street tailor-made for holiday browsing and buying.

We had been in Canada merely for a few days, but were yearning for home flavours. As it turned out, Devi Restaurant on Rue Crescent, which has sparkling row of fine-dining restaurants and bars, was just the answer we were looking for. It was a couple of  blocks away from Rue Catherine and we reached there famished after having countered the wind and the lure to empty pockets on the trendiest boots, bags belts et al. Devi treated our taste-buds splendidly and we couldn’t believe our luck as we dug deep into platters of papri-chat and samosas, besides a scrumptious spread of desi cuisine. The Indian dinner was a happy contrast to a true-blue Montreal lunch of coffee and oven-baked bagels that we had at the bistro-style tables of the popular 1957 Saint-Viateur Bagel. It’s a tradition any visitor dare not miss.    

Montreal describes itself as the rebel child. “We do things our way, not the Canadian way,” is the general refrain at the country’s second biggest metropolitan and the world’s third largest French-speaking city. One of the things they love doing is cycling. Every home had a cycle parked outside and there’s a distinctive system of hiring, the reason bike stands can be spotted around the city. “Give it a try,” a youngster unlocking a bike tells me. I leave that option for another time.   

Quick facts: 

Accommodation: Fairmont, The Queen Elizabeth: www.fairmont.com/queenelizabeth. Its popular fine-dining restaurant, Beaver Club, is said to be one of the best tables in Canada.

At the hotel, the John Lennon and Yoko Ono Suite #1742 is where in 1969 the legendary singer recorded the famous song ‘Give Peace a Chance’.

For more info: www.tourisme-montreal.org


Published in JetWings International, Feb 2011