CHATTISGARH: What and where to see, stay, shop, savour

ARCHITECTURE

1 Sirpur: Once upon a time, dating back to the 5th century, this was a flourishing capital city of central India. The reason it was originally christened Sripura or the ‘city of wealth’. Just an hour away from Raipur (83 km), on the banks of River Mahanadi, today its archaeological wealth draws the intrepid traveller. Its legacy includes Lakshman Mandir, apparently the country’s only brick temple in a well-preserved condition and Buddhist viharas. 

BOUTIQUES

2 Chattis Rang: Step in here for apparel adorned with marwahi embroidery (resembling kantha), block-printed/hand-painted tribal motifs on kosa silk and a collection of select handicraft, including bhitti chitrkari. Tucked away in Raghvendra Nagar, Bilaspur.

3 Bastar Arts: Located in City Centre Mall, Raipur, this is a retail gallery for fine dhokra (bell metal) products. The exclusivity of design found at the store will tempt you to disregard your purchasing budget.     

FLAVOURS

4 Makadi dhaba: On NH 43, the state’s spinal highway, not too many dhabas are spotted. But just short of Kanker there’s thriving Makadi in the eponymous village. Set up by a dependable Sikh who arrived here over 50 years ago, it offers quality fare. With overseas visitors stopping by here don’t be surprised if you spot leading foreign brands on its food shelves. 

5 Purchase custard-apple baskets: Bastar falls in the country’s sharifa or custard-apple belt and typically brightly-attired village women line the highway selling baskets full of the luscious fruit. Depending on bargaining skills you’ll get about 15 kg between Rs 50-100. Whatever you pay you’ll always have a steal deal and more than that a memorable local experience. 

6 Local brews: At a haat take your pick between liquor distilled from the flowers of the Mahua tree or Landa (rice wine) served in a leaf cup and fittingly accompanied with a spicy mix of salt-red chilly powder. 

7 Sulfi toddy: On a road trip, look out for the sulfi tree (fish-tail palm), considered a symbol of social standing among the tribes and almost-revered for its toddy. If you spot a toddy-tapper, persuade him to let you taste the fresh sticky-sweet stuff. For a potent version drink it once fermented. 

HILL STATIONS

8 Manipat: About 45 km from Ambikapur in Surguja sistrict, Manipat is the state’s ‘Shimla’. Among the top weekend getaways, its lush hills, plunging valleys, cascading waterfalls and picturesque drives draws the crowd.  Another attraction is the Dhakpo Monastery, set up by Tibetan refugees. And for sure, the ubiquitous thupka, momos stalls do quick business. 

HISTORY

9 Barsur: About 30 km from Dantewada, it’s acknowledged as Bastar’s finest archaeology site dating back to the 9th century. Once the fountainhead of Hindu civilization, it’s said to have had around 150 temples. In present times, Battisha Mandir and Mama Bhanja ka Mandir are well-preserved reflections of the past. Its prime attractions, though, are the ‘twin ganesha’ stone idols, about 7-8 ft in height and 17 ft wide.    

10 Turturiya: Legend says this is where Valmiki composed the Ramayana. It adds the claim of Sita giving birth to the twins here. And, quite sweetly, legend also says the name Turturiya is derived from the tur-tur sound of water from a nearby stream. What makes a visit here compelling for archaeology buffs is the rich harvest of 7th century Shaivite sculptures. Around 40 km from Sirpur.  

11 Tala-Malhar: These are twin cities close to Raipur, boasting of a rich historical past. Tala is famous for the Jethani-Devrani Temples and among its many attributes Malhar is known for the Gomukhi shivling at the Pataleswar Kedar temple. 

12 Maria menhirs (memorial pillars): Erected for the dead by the Maria tribe, you can spot these along the highways in Bastar. Basically vertical slabs of stone, their size signifies the standing of the deceased. In typical tribal tradition, menhirs are filled with drawings connected with the life of the loved one. When visiting a menhir, Marias drop a pinch of tobacco at its foot in remembrance. Tobacco, incidentally, is considered a means of friendship and a mark of respect. 

HOTELS & RESORTS 

13 Hotel Babylon International (www.hotelbabylon.com) The finest non-heritage address in the state, it’s about 10 minutes from the airport. The staff is courteous and the cuisine served delectable. The power lunch buffet is absolute value for money. Don’t miss the chulbuli corn starter.  

14 The Kanker Palace (www.kankerpalace.com): A delightful heritage hotel in Kanker, the gateway to Bastar, here you come across tenderly preserved facets of the past as the pankha or hand-pulled ceiling fan or a shiny brass lota in the otherwise modern bathrooms. The accommodation consists of five palace rooms and an additional four in two cottages at the rear. It’s one of the few places where a traditional Chattisgarhi spread can be served, albeit on prior notice. 

15 The Palace Kawardha (www.kawardhapalace.com): This 1930 AD grandiose palace of the Kawardha dynasty is the state’s first heritage hotel. This is the region of the Baiga tribe and the hotel organises enthralling interactions with tribespersons, visit to village haats, and dance performances. When here, classical music buffs would value a visit to the Khairagarh music university which has a rich collection of gramophone records. Kawardha is 120 km north-west of Raipur.

16 Chhuikhadan Palace: This 18th century palace, about 120 km north-west of Raipur, recently entered the hospitality fray and completes the trio of accommodation in the state with the ‘royal heritage’ tag. Tranquil, small and similar to a homestay in character, it’s perfect for the off-the-beaten-track traveller. At present it offers three rooms with impressively hand-painted walls dating back to almost a century. 

17 Bastar Jungle Resort (www.bastarjungleresort.com). It’s modest luxury in the green heart of Bastar. Set in a sprawling estate fringing the jungle it has king-sized cottages with personal verandas and gardens, walls decorated with stick figures and quite pleasingly fully-equipped bathrooms. And if you’ve always yearned for a hot shower under the open sky this is the place for you to check into. Located in Kurandi village, 12 km beyond Jagdalpur town. 

18 Bhoramdeo Jungle Retreat: At the foot of the Maikal Hills, close to Kawardha its an elegant option for an outdoorsy experience. What makes it a sought-after address is its tasteful ethno-chic cottages, great food, campfire and engrossing conversation with Sunny, the proprietor, an expert on the area, who enthrals with anecdotes. Spend time exploring Gond and Baiga tribal villages or visiting historical temples. 

19. Sal Valley Resort (www.wildamarkantak.in): In a expansive location, surrounded by lush sal forests, the resort is attractively built in village style. Thoughtfully, there’s room for all budgets among its two AC and five non-AC and 6-8 bedded air-cooled dormitory. Meals here are packed with wholesome, home-cooked flavours. It’s about 4/5 hrs by road from Raipur in Kheochi village adjacent to Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. Just 20 km from here is Amarkantak, where originates the revered River Narmada or Ma Rewa (recall the eponymous haunting Indian Ocean number), as it’s called.  

CRAFT

20 Muria combs: Intricately carved wooden combs — spotted at handicraft fairs these days — is an engaging feature of Muria tribe courtship.  According to custom, the comb is a suitor’s proposal and the woman wears it in her hair. The count of suitor combs in the hair indicates a woman’s popularity.  Interestingly, after marriage she is supposed to return the combs retaining only those given by her husband. These combs can be found at the haats, despite plastic fast replacing beautiful wood ones.    

21 Sulur or Wind Flute: You’ve spotted this whistling bamboo at handicraft fairs. In Bastar see it being crafted. An intriguing musical instrument, it’s made with a hollow bamboo staff. When swung around rhythmically a whistling sound is produced.  Visit the 'Narayanpur Bamboo Project' at  Narayanpur. This is the place this musical bamboo was created by Pandi Ram Mandavi. 

22 Kondagaon: This village and its neighbours form central Bastar’s craft hub. Most visible around here is emblematic ‘ghadwa-kaam’ or metal-casting, including dhokra (bell-metal) and wrought-iron, besides woodcarving and straight-off-the-kiln terracotta at Kumharpara. Don’t skip visiting national award-winning dhokra artiste Jaidev Baghel’s residence-workshop that over the decades has produced quite a range.  

23 Narayanpur: Bastar’s bordering district is refining primeval techniques of bamboo craft and basketry. But what’s not to be missed here is ‘tumba’, which essentially is the art of turning hollow gourd shells into decorative containers for water and sulfi toddy. These days utilitarian essentials as pitchers, lampshades, boxes and a lot else is being crafted from the modest gourd.  

24 Nagarnar: About 20 km from Jagdalpur, this has been developed as a craft village. Huts of award-winning artistes, some internationally acclaimed, are effectively storehouses of terracotta products, wood carving besides typical dhokra and wrought-iron work. The flow of tourists has smartened marketing skills of the artistes and diluted creativity. Yet amongst the mass produced a sparkling gem can always be found.      

25 Puhputra village, Ambikapur, Surguja district: The legend of Sonabai Rajawar (for more on this unassuming, internationally-feted artiste read Sonabai: Another Way of Seeing, by Stephen Huyler) rings in the air at this remote village. She had drawn acclaim for her individual expression in bhitti chitrakari or painted clay sculpturing. The craft has many variations in central India, where conventionally idols, soldiers, elephants, horses, parrots or peacocks are made for celebrations/ sacred occasions. Get acquainted with her journey at Puhputra. Her legacy is being carried forward by her talented grandson Atma Das Manikpuri. 

26 Parchanpal: Around 10 km from Jagdalpur this is where you should head to see sisal (grass) craft. It’s riveting to observe deft hands work their way around the grass to produce a range of vibrant items as boxes, frames, mats etc.  

MARKETS

27 Haats of Bastar district: Think of a rural setting in Hindi cinema late 60s, early 70s. That’s what you’ll observe at the haats or weekly markets. These day markets have something for everyone—from pots-pans to dried fish to jewellery and more. It’s a social occasion for the tribals and they come dressed in their best. Colourful, festive and an unadulterated display of tribal life, it’s certainly not to be skipped. Some popular haats are: Barsur (Friday), Bastar village (Thursday), Mardum (Saturday), Narainpur (Sunday). 

28 Bastar Palace on Sunday: Located in Jagdalpur city, it’s the residence of the Kakatiya dynasty. The erstwhile royals continue to reside in a section of the palace, a part having been converted into a medical college.  Behind the palace’s imposing gateway is a temple dedicated to Danteshwari Devi. On Sunday a lively weekly haat is held in the ground opposite the palace.

29 Handwoven silk:  Though weaving is not part of traditional tribal culture here, the Halba tribe has perfected the art of making hand-woven tussar silk. The Kosa Silk Centre of Jagdalpur is a pioneer in production and kosa can also be found in shops off Chandini Chowk, in the city centre. Besides Kosa, Bastar’s Railley silk is widely acclaimed, for being produced from naturally-growing silk worms on sal and saja trees. Uniquely, it feels cool in summer and warm in winters. 

30 Sanjay Bazaar, Jagdalpur: Before the showrooms open, a bustling daily market comes on at Sanjay Bazaar for a few early hours everyday. From vegetable to baskets to live chicken everything is sold. Traditionally attired tribeswomen add colour to the proceedings. It’s a lively sliver of haat life in dusty city lanes. 

MUSEUMS and GALLERIES

31 Anthropological museum, Jagdalpur: Within its premises there’s valuable documentation of the regions tribes. Note: Don’t get dissuaded by the neglected outdoors.  

PERFORMING ARTS 

32 Chakradhar Samaroh, Raigarh: Erstwhile royal Raigarh is considered the state’s cultural capital and this is the most distinguished national-level classical arts festival it hosts. Though given a formal sarkari shape a few decades back, the festival history goes back nearly a century, having been established by Maharaja Bhupdev Singh and taken to soaring heights by Maharaja Chakradhar Singh, a celebrated musician and dancer who developed a form of kathak and established the Rajgarh Gharana. The 10-day fest is held in August-September and sees participation of leading artistes.  

QUIRKY

33 Godna (tattoo): This is no fashion statement but a status symbol among the tribes and also considered spiritual. In Bastar you’ll notice women inked across the body, face included, with designs of bangles, necklaces, waistbands, earrings, nose-pins, anklets etc. There’s reason for that. According to tribal belief, precious metal jewellery was mortal. During search for a permanent ornament — an essential for the other world — tattoo became the solution, and over centuries that custom has stayed. Contemporary designers are successfully using godna motifs on silk/cotton apparel, accessories and linen.  

34 Irpu or Gadi padum: In the season of Magh (Jan-Feb) this festival is held to mark the flowering of the sacred Mahua tree. It’s prohibited to pick Mahua flowers before the fest. On Irpu day a fowl is sacrificed to a mahua tree in the village headman’s fields followed by song-dance.  

35 Bali madai: During Baisakh (April-May) Bastar villages erect Bhima Khuta, a pole representing rain god Bhima Deo, and pray for a good monsoon. Women prepare bhojilis or few seeds sown in a leaf cup. If the sprouts are healthy abundant rain is expected. 

RIVERS and LAKES 

36 Chitrakoot Waterfall: The world descends at these absolutely magnificent falls by noon. But you should be there early morning for an ethereal experience of an inky blue sky being the stunning backdrop to roaring white cascading water. Don’t forget to take a country boat ride in the lovely pool that forms at its base. And yes, put down Chitrakoot in the top-10 Indian spots to experience in your lifetime. 

SACRED – TEMPLES/RITUALS/RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS ETC

37 Bastar Dusshera: No ten-headed Ravan goes up in flame here and neither is victory of good over evil hailed. Bastar Dusshera is a 75-day celebration dedicated to the worship of Ma Danteshwari Devi, a tradition established by Bastar’s fourth Kakatiya raja, Purushottam Deo in the 15th century. The festival is dominated by tribal customs and culminates with a rath yatra.    

38 Fagun madai: Celebrated to welcome the season of Fagun (Feb-March) it’s organised at Danteshwari Temple in Dantewada where more than 200 deities are invited. The ten-day festival presents a rich slice of tribal culture. The concluding day coincides with country-wide Holi, and curiously along with spraying gulal, revellers pelt amla (Indian gooseberry) on each other, the custom being believed to keep the body healthy for the next one year.    

39 Shivani Temple, Kanker: Legend says this temple has one of just two statues in the country that is half Goddess Kali and half Goddess Durga. During the Navaratri festival the temple draws its biggest crowd.  

40 Danteshwari Devi Temple: Dedicated to the region’s presiding goddess Danteshwari, it’s one of the 52 Shakti Peeths across India. Built in the 14th century by the Chalukyas of Southern India, it’s in Dantewada, 80 km from Jagdalpur. This is the spot where the daant or tooth of Sati fell during the episode when all Shakti shrines were created in the Satyayug.  

41 Bhoramdeo Temple: Known as ‘Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh’ it’s at Bhoramdev, 21 km from Kawardha. Lying on the banks of River Sakri, the 11th century Lord Shiva temple complex is its calling card. 

42 Dongargarh ropeway:  Dongargarh in Rajnandgaon district is famous for the Bamleshwari Temple, picturesquely located atop a hill.  More adventurously, there’s an ‘open-air’ ropeway —the only one in the state—that connects the temple making the outing a lot of fun.  

43 Rajiv Lochan Temple: In Rajim city, 35 km from Raipur, this is a  prominent temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Best time to visit it is in spring between mid and end February when a temple fair is held. 

44 Cult of Ang Deva: A set of villages or a large village has its own deity or Ang Deva. Made of wood hewn from a special tree the Ang Deva’s shape is two well-rounded logs (considered the limbs) joined together by a plank (considered the body). It is usually shouldered by four men, though the belief is its takes on a life of its own and direct those carrying it. A regular sight during fairs and festive occasions, the primary role of the deva is to indicate a direction to a problem.  

THRILL – ADVENTURE/TREKS

45 Kanger Valley National Park: A green treasure of Chattisgarh, 38 km from Jagdalpur, the park offers a challenging trip down a cubby hole to view limestone formations at the 40-feet-deep Kutamsar Cave. The other attraction here is the pretty Tiratgarh Waterfall. Kanger also has a sizeable butterfly population which draws its share of global enthusiasts. 

46 Indravati National Park, Dantewada: The park derives its name from River Indravati, which forms its northern boundary. It’s the state’s only tiger reserve and also offers leisurely trekking and hiking trails. The main entry is at Kutrue village, 22 km north of Jagdalpur.

WILDLIFE 

47 Sanjay National Park: Also known as the Guru Ghasidas National Park it’s located in Sarguja and Koriya districts and has one of the richest flora and avi-fauna habitats in India. Apart from the big paws who stealthily move around its jungles that park boasts of attracting more than 300 species of birds, so there’s no way you can forget to pack in that pair of binoculars. 

48 Udanti wildlife sanctuary: The state is abundant with wildlife zones and if you’re travelling in its southern parts stop by at Udanti, 160 km south-east from Raipur. Not to be missed here is the Devdhara waterfall. 

49 Barnawapara Wildlife Sanctuary: This easily accessible sanctuary, 85 km from Raipur, has a sizeable count of gaurs and sighting of sloth bear/leopard is not rare. Do keep eyes peeled for the big cats but don’t forget to observe the rich micro-life here. The tourism property Eco Resort, Mohda, in the buffer zone, wonderfully overlooks a small lake and many a time avifauna spotting is possible from the comfortable confines of your room. 

50 Birding at Sitanadi sanctuary: Legend says Sita chose to stay here when she was expecting twins Luv-Kush. This is a haven popular with birders. It’s close to Kanker and there’s a stay option at the quaint Raj-style forest rest house within the sanctuary, which serves basic needs, so stock up well.  

Edited version appears in ITTP, Jan-Feb 2012

Indian Folk Art: Pithora, Gujarat

       Published in Deccan Herald, January 29, 2012

Indian folk art: Mata ni Pachedi, Gujarat

Click on text to read     
Published in Deccan Herald, Bangalore, Jan 1,2012

Bastar, Chattisgarh

  Rich times in Bastar

Monarchy may have been abolished years ago, but in Bastar it's unshaken. That, and other unexpected experiences, make a trip to this part quite memorable.

The streets have turned into ribbons of dazzle. The glowing October evening sun pales in comparison as a multitude of tan-taut figures attired in vibrant hues... shocking magenta, vermilion red, blazing orange to scorching saffron hurriedly march on. It’s the concluding day of the region’s biggest annual event and the celebratory mood is clearly palpable. Sewak, the cab driver, is manoeuvring his way through the milling crowd and at one point announces he can go no further, in the same breath adding, “I need to exit quickly. The Raja’s convoy is approaching and no vehicle dare come in his way. The public will not tolerate it.” I make insipid noises about law and order and query him on it. He politely informs, “Minister ho ya police, es waqt Raja ke samne koi matlab nahin rakhte.”

What a stunner! 

I don't attach weight to that declaration. A few minutes later, though, the cabbie’s statement rings true. A maroon hatchback blocking the convoy’s path is lifted and flung aside with matchbox disdain. The procession of the king’s men — tribespersons as Gonds, Parajas, Bison-horn Marias, Murias, Halbaas, Dhurwas — nonchalantly carries on. And none, not even uniformed men on duty, challenge them. This is an affair of a Raja and his praja (subjects), the world outside their kingdom may please step aside.  

The episode is of India, circa 2011, and no, it didn’t take place in a back-of-beyond jungle where, purportedly, men dressed in feathers pirouette around fire and their king sits on a throne decked with skeleton heads. I witness it in contemporary Jagdalpur, district headquarter of Bastar, southern Chattisgarh. The region’s crowd had gathered for the Bastar Dusshera finale, and the king they hailed — not overbearingly Rajasthanesque but almost-devotional — was the boyish Kamal Chandra Bhanj Deo, the 22nd Raja of Bastar from the Kakatiya dynasty. Deo, incidentally, holds a foreign degree and when not in royal robes for better part of the year is just another regular 27-year-old guy in jeans and tees who enjoys doing what anyone his age likes to.

Sirpur

Monarchy may have been abolished decades ago but in this part of the country dominated by tribes, despite winds of change (dish antennas atop humble huts, cell phones in most hands), core beliefs have remained intriguingly unshaken. One of these being customs linked to the 75-day Dusshera, which distinctively, is not about Rama or Ravan but a fusion of Hindu-Tribal rituals associated with the worship of Ma Danteshwari Devi and concludes with a rath yatra. It’s  then that the clock is rewound, and just the once when doors of the modest white-blue lime-washed Bastar Palace in Jagdalpur thrown open to let the constant stream of tribespersons pay heartfelt obeisance to their chief and invite him to participate in festivities.

Raipur, Chattisgarh’s capital, has negligible brand recall; ‘exotic’ Bastar having always been the magnet. The city displays precious little that’s inviting. But move out a bit and the state’s hidden gems shyly shine.

Relatively-unknown Sirpur, 83 km northeast from Raipur, off NH 6, is an archaeological treasure-trove. Way back in 639 AD the intrepid Hiuen Tsiang on visiting its impressive temples and Buddhist viharas had felt euphoric! My stopover at the verdant village evokes similar feeling. Untouched by tourism, it is a canvas of quietude, letting me appreciate the effortless beauty of its 7th century Lakshman Mandir, evidently the country’s only brick temple in a well-preserved state, or making me soak in the calm radiating from Lord Buddha’s sculpture in bhumisparsha position at the Tivaradeva Mahavihara, considered most stunning amongst vicinity viharas. The quirkily steep-stepped Surang Tila proudly displays its share of splendour. Around Sirpur lies much more and deserves at least a day’s attention. These are tributes to the song of the chisel and I feel the legacy needs tender, loving care. As a start, can the muggy on-site museums be given a makeover, please?

At the haat in Munda village

With poor railway connectivity, the NH 43 is the state’s lifeline, linking Raipur with Bastar. The highway is considerably smooth except for the potholed 12-hairpin loops of Keshkal ghati that re-jig inner vitals. This spot is a little ahead of Kanker, the gateway to Bastar and the subtle change in terrain from plains to plateau begins appearing during the onward drive. The eyes scan dense green hills of the distant Dandakaranya range, miles of soothing-green paddy interspersed by the revered mahua tree or slate-stone huts flank the tarmac, a trail of erect women in conventional knee-high sarees unflappably carrying aluminium handis swiftly walks past, a sulfi (fish-tail palm) tree waves its leaves and though I’m familiar with the tree’s ornamental value in cities it’s near-reverential status among tribespersons for its toddy, comes as a pleasant surprise. In fact a family’s status is indicated by the number of trees it owns. This is a prelude to discoveries ahead.

Kanker Palace: Period cloth ceiling fan 

The stately 1937 AD Kanker Palace, initially built for the kingdom’s British agent, is a welcoming throwback to the days of the Raj, its lived-in Diwan Hall filled with characteristic bric-a-brac, sepia photographs and mounted animal heads. The Deos were the first royals to convert their property into an elegant heritage hotel, the resurrection breathing life into the walls and acquainting travellers with lovingly-preserved original features as hand-pulled ceiling fans. I lunch with amiable Jolly Deo, the younger royal, a chef by profession, who’s got prepared a scrumptious North-Indian spread. I snoop around for local taste and the tangy bamboo-shoot pickle plays saviour for Deo, who promises to lay out a typical Chattisgarhi spread if I come by again. Now, that’s a tempting reason to return.         

Chitrakote Falls 

Jagdalpur is a base for Bastar’s myriad attractions: dhokra (bell-metal) craft villages as Kondagaon, wildlife parks, trekking trails, fascinating village haats etc. The most popular seems the Chitrakote Waterfall, and rightly so. They are spectacular! Fortunately I reach early morning, far before the tourist rush, and enjoy the powerful display of nature. I feel it’s needlessly compared with the Niagara. The raw beauty around it is more compelling than manicured perfection.

Dusshera Haat, Jagdalpur

A haat experience has been missing from the itinerary and tour guide Hiren enterprisingly locates one in Munda village, close to Chitrakote. I’ve always felt a local market is an expression of the place. Munda turns out to be an absorbing sliver of Bastar’s spirit. Under the shade of a few peepal trees, majority ware is spread out by brightly-clad Muira tribe women, picturesquely-conspicuous with side hair-buns, kilos of silver adorning hands and feet, gigantic gold nose-pins and a ready smile for the camera. I spot a young girl wearing a comb in her hair... customarily presented by a suitor. Deals are struck over gourds, tamarinds, red chillies, cane baskets and custard-apples; dried mahua flower heaps vanish fast with kilos being purchased for brew; earthen pitchers regularly undergo the sound-quality test; and despite being in a corner the landa (rice wine) ladies always have a gaggle of customers around them. It’s a quintessential atmospheric Indian village down to its caste hierarchies and yet another stimulating frame of a land full of legends, colour and staunch customs. The state tourism catchline is: full of surprises. I wasn’t surprised, just overwhelmed by the wealth of India once again. I’d say, visit Chattisgarh, it’s still original.

Muria tribe girl wearing comb presented by suitor

The Maoists have made sure Chattisgarh stays in news for not very encouraging reasons. However, gun-totting Maoists are not lurking behind every tree waiting to make instant fodder out of you. Insurgency-related incidents do happen, as it did when I was there, when unfortunately three jawans were killed but “fear did not sweep through all of Bastar”, as a leading English daily reported. Bastar was in the heights of festivity and life carried on. 

FYI

Chattisgarh has a rich green cover. Over a dozen wildlife sanctuaries and national parks dot the terrain. There are two splendid options on this circuit: Barnawapara Wildlife Sanctuary, 85 km from Raipur (Stay: Eco Resort, Mohda, a tourism property in the buffer zone, wonderfully overlooks a small lake and at times avifauna spotting is possible from the confines of the room. Tariff Rs 2,500). The engrossingly-verdant Kanger Valley National Park, 38 km from Jagdalpur, has added attractions in the Tiratgarh Waterfall and limestone formations at the 40-feet-deep Kutamsar Cave. Be prepared to cautiously tackle the cubby hole which leads down under. Tip: Carry a powerful torch to make certain the experience of viewing the stalactites and stalagmites doesn’t turn out to be a darkness-at-noon affair, courtesy sarkari bandobast. 

Getting there

Landa in leaf cup

Air: Direct flights to Raipur from all metros, Hyderabad, Indore, Bhubaneshwar, Vishakapatnam and Bhopal

Railway: From New Delhi: Bilaspur Rajdhani (12442, Tue, Sat), From Kolkata/Mumbai: Howrah-Mumbai Mail (12810, daily), Azad Hind Express (12130, daily); From Bhopal: Amarkantak Express (12854, daily)

Road: The NH 43 connects Raipur with Bastar/Jagdalpur via Kanker: 300km appx/6 hours. No state transport buses; private carriers easily available, one-way ticket to Bastar Rs 125-250. Cabs charge up to Rs 1,500 for a day trip. 

When to go: September to March 

Stay

Raipur: Hotel Babylon International (www.hotelbabylon.com) Quite simply the best address in the state. Significantly, serves delectable cuisine. Tariff: Rs 5,000 onwards.

Kanker: The Kanker Palace (www.kankerpalace.com) Delightfully-old-world heritage hotel. Tariff: Rs 6,000 onwards.

Jagdalpur: Bastar Jungle Resort (www.bastarjungleresort.com) Kurandi village (12 km). King-sized cottages set in a sprawling estate fringing the jungle. Squeaky-clean washrooms with mod-cons. Also offers the luxury of a hot shower under an open sky. Tariff: On request

Shop

Kondagoan (en route Jagdalpur) and its surrounding villages are recognised for trademark ‘ghadwa-kaam’ or metal-casting, including dhokra (bell-metal) and wrought-iron figurines, besides straight-off-the-kiln terracotta. Don’t skip visiting national award-winning dhokra artiste Jaidev Baghel’s modest residence-workshop that has over the decades produced outstanding masterpieces.

Drink

At a local haat take your pick between freshly-brewed Mahua (seasonal) or Landa (rice wine) served in a leaf cup and temptingly accompanied with a masala mix of salt-red chilly powder 

Edited version appears in India Today Travel Plus, December 2011

Chamba: Pretty perch

Chamba in Himachal Pradesh is an ancient town cradled by incredibly beautiful mountain ranges.

Cocooned amidst lofty mountains and rolling hills of the incredibly beautiful Pir Panjal, Zanskar, and Dhauladhar ranges, Chamba tiptoes up and down a two-deck plateau rising from the banks of a gurgling Ravi river. Over a thousand years old, this little outpost in northwest Himachal Pradesh was once a remarkable royal dominion established by Raja Sahil Varman in 920. Its geography cosseted it from invasions, letting it develop a culture of its own. Here the arts found patronage, literature strengthened roots and education was encouraged. Its royalty was continually farsighted and the region benefited. Chamba, for instance, was one of the first towns in the north to get electricity as early as 1910, with the dynamic Raja Bhuri Singh (1904-19) tapping into the era's newest concept of hydro-generation. As testimony to his vision, the main market retains several ornate electricity poles erected way back then.

CHOWGAN AT THE CENTRE

In days of yore, Chamba was a tiny town built around the Chowgan, a verdant central square, which continues to be its most popular public venue. In the past, it hosted coronations and sundry imperial ceremonies, now it's used for almost anything from social functions to political rallies and even leisurely picnics. On its flanks rose the attractive royal quarters and the market. Today's town has moved way beyond the Chowgan, with urbanisation creeping into the surrounding hills. The changing times have also diluted or destroyed the finer aspects of traditions. Yet, what remains shyly shines through the clutter, drawing the eye of the keen visitor and enthralling with their varied attributes.

The calling card of Chamba is its ancient shrines and their distinguishing architecture. Amongst the oldest and most revered on the checklist is the 11th century Lakshmi Narayan Temple. A short uphill walk from the market leads to its complex of six shrines dedicated to Lords Shiva or Vishnu. Each of these has been erected by rulers at different points of time and enshrine exquisitely crafted idols, which are now caged behind iron grills. A beautiful Garuda at the entrance is another highlight. Built in shikhara style, or tapering stone towers, it's their slate-wood chattris or canopies that make these temples typical to the area.

What's more, there is a gold kalash (holy urn) atop each, and legend says these were added in defiance to Emperor Aurangzeb's decree ordering temples to be razed. Apparently Raja Chhatar Singh (1664-90) took the audacious step in 1678 to indicate he wasn't afraid of the enemy forces! Other significant medieval shrines in the region include Champavati temple, Hari Rai temple (known for its Vaikuntha idol, a form of Vishnu with three faces — human, boar and lion), Bansi Gopal temple, Bajreshwari temple (that's a little beyond town) and Chamunda Devi temple.

Owing to topography, palaces in the hills are, in general, nowhere as palatial as those on the plains; at best, they are akin to huge mansions. Overlooking the Chowgan is the erstwhile royal address, Akhand Chandi Palace, built by Raja Umed Singh in 1748-64. The unplanned construction in the neighbourhood nearly hides it from view but, like a pretty diamond, it manages to grab the eye, the gaze returning often to its striking green roof and stained-glass windows. Part of the palace has been turned into a college while the rest is still home to the Varman descendants.

PAHARI ART

British influence began making inroads from 1840 onwards and their architectural imprint is noticeable in the post office, the courthouse complex, the well-maintained Circuit House and the Church of Scotland.

The Chamba royals were patrons of fine art, and the region's collective wealth of art history is showcased at the Bhuri Singh Museum, established in 1908, making it one of the oldest in the country. Here you'll find sculptures, costumes and miniature paintings belonging to the Pahari school of art, comprising the Chamba, Kangra, Basholi and Guler styles.

Live art in progress can be viewed at the town's small but lively bazaars, where weavers make shawls on wooden looms, silversmiths craft pendants, metallurgists hammer on copper and brass to produce trumpets, bells and pujaplatters, artists work on Pahari paintings, and girls embroider the Chambarumal — an inimitable do-rukha, or reversible, embroidery on square cloth used to cover gifts and holy offerings. Traditionally, the rumal is part of a bride's trousseau and her grandmother embroiders it for the special occasion.

Like in many of the region's hilly towns, a plethora of fairs and festivals take place in Chamba the year round. The Sui Mela held in April pays tribute to Shail Varman's queen who, according to folklore, sacrificed her life so that Chamba would never be without water. The Sui Mata temple is dedicated to her and, during the festival, women gather and sing praises of her valour and devotion. It's the poignant tale behind the event that draws devotees from far-flung areas. And on such days, otherwise quiet Chamba comes alive with festivity.

http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/life/pretty-perch/article2635741.ece

Published in The Hindu Business Line , Nov 2011

Spain by train: Segovia, Valencia

Ever since Spain expanded its high-speed train network (AVE) — now the largest in Europe — travelling within this vivacious country has become perceptibly convenient. For a visitor with budgeted time, day-trips are far more doable and if planned prudently a Eurail pass (www.eurailtravel.com) makes the outing cost-effective too, happily leaving a few extra euros in the pocket.

On a brief trip to Madrid recently, train travel nudged me into packing in two additional destinations, allowing the experience of contrasting cultures and bringing into focus Spain’s absorbing historical canvas. 

Valencia, Spain’s orange country and the birthplace of paella, is on the Mediterranean coast to the east. The high-speed train from Madrid has shrunk the 391 km distance to a feasible 90 minutes; in comparison the 362-km Chennai-Bangalore route by Shatabdi Express takes 4.50 hr. The country’s third-largest city, it’s a tempting mix of favourable climate (Mediterranean, of course), diverse cuisine (paella, tapas, horchata, turron etc) and engaging culture (historic and futuristic). And of course, it’s the home of the Valencia Football Club, a top ranker in La Liga, Spain’s premier league. Off-late Valencia has emerged out of the shadow of the two biggies, Barcelona and Madrid, but has retained its leisurely character and not turned aggressively touristy.

The non-stop train journey has made it the closest seaside town for Madrid and it’s not uncommon to hear holidayers heading-off for “paella-by-the-beach lunch”. I would vouch for it as a must-do when in Spain, having savoured this experience on the popular Playa (beach) de Las Arenas, which had a picturesque waterfront, a string of heritage restaurants and a lively Sunday market where among other buys were freshly-pickled olives.    

As across classical Europe, Valencia’s Old Quarter exudes Gothic charisma, and my exploration begun from the popular Plaza de la Reina. This has a clutch of striking buildings, the most celebrated being Valencia Cathedral, which evidently has the Holy Grail, the cup used by Christ at the Last Supper. Its hybrid architecture stood in contrast to my next halt, the 15th century La Lonja del la Seda (silk exchange), a Unesco site for being the best preserved late-Gothic example and a seal of Valencia’s golden age as a leading trade centre. What imprisoned my senses here, though, was an overwhelmingly delicate fragrance, which I discovered were from orange blossoms at its small central garden. What blissful natural scent! Oranges piqued my interest once again at the buzzing Mercado Central, the century-plus food market opposite the street, that’s a splendid manifestation of Moorish influences like ceramic tiles and domed glass-roof. It typically offered a window to the city’s culture and as I browsed, observing locals stock-up on paella ingredients, pans, ham and more, I noticed the tag ‘naranja’ on piles of luscious oranges. Apparently the Spanish term for the fruit originated from the Dravidian root naarinja, as oranges were an import from India/China. 

Historic Valencia was offset by two cutting-edge architectural spots. The City of Arts and Sciences, was a complex designed on a spectacular scale. Offering museums, opera house, Imax theatre besides Europe’s biggest aquarium, it was conceived to stimulate the mind. However, Bioparc, a new generation zoo got my vote as the not-to be-missed experience. Its uniqueness was the remarkable recreation of assorted yet freewheeling wild habitats: savannah, rain forests, equatorial Africa etc, with respective species co-existing in harmony. So if it was hello to the giraffe and zebra at one instance, a while later I was observing gorillas and flamingos. Truly, an enthralling tribute to sustainability and conservation; and a rewarding wrap-up to my Valencia excursion.

My next day-trip was to pocket-sized Segovia. Quaint and delightfully frozen in time, this Unesco heritage town, in the shadows of the snow-capped Guadarrama mountains, was merely 30 minutes by train north of Madrid. A showpiece of the Castile and Leon autonomous province in Spain, centuries of miscellaneous history met around the corners presenting a fascinating museum-like cultural exposition.

The Segovia tour got an awe-start with the multi-arched AD 1 Aqueduct, the town’s symbol. Built with stone but no mortar, it was a characteristic feat of Roman engineering towering over the landscape. Beyond it the skyline dramatically changed.

Dominated by an assortment of quirky Gothic-Renaissance turrets, domes, spires, towers and a labyrinth of twisting alleys, my first impressions were of having almost stepped into fairyland. As I realised, this was an oft-heard reaction. And if modern myth is to be believed, El Alcazar, the erstwhile royal residence on a cliff, at the end of the tourist trail, did inspire the logo of a company that’s enchanted generations with the magic of make-belief world: Walt Disney.

Another multi-spire stunner was the AD 1525 Segovia Cathedral dedicated to patron saint San Frutos at Plaza Mayor. His sculpture holding a prayer book stands in a niche atop the doorway, and legend says the day he closes the book the world will end!

Every step in this dainty, atmospheric town had tremendous architectural power and the liberal sprinkling of outdoorsy cafes, tapas bars, boutiques, old-style restaurants as Michelin-star Jose Maria renowned for Segovia’s signature dish cochinillo, and colourful souvenir shops made my hours vanish quickly. Soon it was time to board the train back to Madrid…with a promise to return.

Published in Deccan Herald, Oct 2011