on the move
Sunday, September 17, 2023
Vernacular architecture of Himachal
Sunday, March 15, 2020
Draped in Warmth
The luxuriously soft and embroidered Kashmiri shawls have been worn from antiquity. Brinda Suri writes how they are, and will remain a prized possession
Kani shawl |
The uniqueness about handicraft is how it is representative of epoch, place and culture. When the three are seamlessly interwoven, that piece of craft becomes timeless. A remarkable illustration of one such contemporary classic is the Kashmiri shawl.
Stunning Designs
Sozni pashmina |
The kalamkari shawl on the other hand is lighter in work
but looks equally stunning. In a kalmakari, traditionally the entire design is
painted with a wood kalam, pen, after which it’s handed over to the embroider
who highlights the outlines and fills certain motifs to lend an embossed look
to the shawl. These days the digital printing technique is being ingeniously
used to make the coloured pattern and bringing down the shawl cost.
A vibrant play of colours and design is the
distinguishing feature of the papier mache shawl. They ape the painted patterns
of the papier mache art seen on boxes and other artefacts. A variety of
stitches is used on this shawl and what makes it stand apart from other sozni
shawls is the use of minute knots throughout the pattern which truly gives it a
painted papier mache feel.
The rich catalogue of shawls of Kashmir is an acknowledgment of the artistic talents of the Valley. Where once only men were involved in the arts, now women too, are being trained in all forms of embroidery. Women putting down their signature designs on the embroidered classics is a sign of the changing times.
Published in Deccan Herald, March 2020
Read more at: https://www.deccanherald.com/sunday-herald/sunday-herald-melange/draped-in-warmth-813301.htmlFriday, September 13, 2019
Friday, August 30, 2019
JW Marriott: Vicky comes to town
Executive Chef JW Marriott Naveen Handa with Chef Vicky Ratnani |
On the menu: According to the chef, “The global gourmet menu which we will be serving through this curated dinner is an expression of mine and the hotel's global culinary prowess blended with our love for our roots.” Diners can look forward to Lobster Mac and Cheese where the desi addition is Amul cheese and green chillies or then The Brew pani-puri which are golgappas filled with a potent mix of imli chutney and beer. There’s also the cheesy Wood fired Mini Cazlone, filled with the all-time favourite, yes, you guessed it: butter chicken. The green version has a filling of charred broccoli. There’s also Mera desi roast served with jeera potatoes and a sparkling pepper sauce. The Smoky Tandoori Bowl has vegetables served with a quinoa pilaf, creamed spinach and kachumbhar. It’s peppy progressive cuisine, hearty and hot from the hearth.
Sunday, February 17, 2019
Agrarian crisis
are the ways to
go back to
being a healthy
agrarian country.
Brinda Suri tells
the story of the
Indian farmer
JW Marriott food festival: Spicing it with Black Pepper
Angaya Podi |
Ingredients used include pipli and aswagandha |
Chef Shri Bala with Exec Chef JW Marriott, Chandigarh, Naveen Handa at the opening of the Black Pepper Food Festival |
The culinary expedition begins on a sweet note with the Madurai butter bun, a modern-day street food, which is a soft bun layered with butter and jaggery that gets tantalizingly caramelised on heating. “In our system of eating we always start with something sweet, as it increases hunger pangs and also aids in digestion,” says Shri Bala. Moving on, the ancient section tempts equally with meen varuval, fish subtly flavoured with curry leaves and black pepper, as it does with the protein-packed thavalai vada made with four lentils and rice. There’s also the delicate Kovil dosa, which is fit to be served to the gods as it’s an unfermented black urad lentil preparation. The dessert section has the excellent khus khus payasam paired with adhirasam or small, thick crepes of rice flour and palm jaggery.
The Medieval spread stands out for its vegetable dishes such as ash gourd pal kuttu and urundai kuzhumbu or lentil dumplings in gravy. From all three eras, there’s a selection of mutton (Dindigul biryani), lamb (Ambur biryani), fish (meen gassi) and chicken (Guntur chilly chicken).
Kovil dosa |
Ambur Biryani |
The Rasam counter offers quite a mélange that should not be missed by those with a discerning palate. A must-try here is prawn coconut soup as well as steamed millet with angaya podi, a roasted-spice powder which has ingredients like pipli, neem flower, pea berry, night shade and of course pepper. In the accompaniments, Inji puli pickle is a delicious mix of textures.
At the Black Pepper Festival what shines through is the subtlety of flavours, combinations of ingredients, diverse cooking techniques and above all Shri Bala’s passion for research, hunger to excel and share her knowledge.
The festival is on till February 24.
Saturday, November 24, 2018
Wednesday, October 17, 2018
Saturday, September 22, 2018
Monday, July 30, 2018
Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner: In a class by itself
Diwali Chowk |
Watermelon sandwich |
The mixed strains of jazz pleasantly surprise me as I arrive at Narendra Bhawan. This is invigorating piped music, layered with haunting Western and Indian rhythms, and sets the tone for the luxury boutique hotel that is local in essence but global in outlook, quite like the man it's named after and whose erstwhile residence it was, the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singh.
Republic Suite in tones of grey and blue |
Republic Suite sitting room |
However, this is definitely not just another royal haveli turned into a hotel. It feels like walking into a piece of art lovingly restored and passionately curated with a phenomenal eye for detail.
Wild mushroom tortellini |
These are categorised as Prince, Residence and India rooms. At the top end is the Republic Suite, which is the one I've been hosted at.
Gaushala, the lounge |
Infinity pool with a view |
Chevron floors, Art Deco and more |
Eco-conscious |
Spaces flow into each other and a terrific illustration is the original terrace being converted into Diwali Chowk, a leafy central courtyard, almost like a restorative oasis, and around it rising anew a three-storey structure comprising rooms, gymnasium as well as a rooftop sit-out and infinity pool offering a bird’s eye view of town.
If I have to pick a stand-out design element it will be the optimum utilisation of space. And the winner certainly will be the breezy al fresco lounge quirkily called Gaushala, as that’s what it initially was. It’s positioned right at the very entrance which sees a flow of guests the day through, yet it manages to be intimate and inviting.
Apricot brandy flourless chocolate cake |
I get to taste some lesser known regional dishes as angoori sabzi and sautéed aloe vera. And I must say I’ve not savoured better wild mushroom tortellini, butternut squash soup or watermelon sandwich. Delectable!
As with Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, Manvendra Singh Shekhawat, MD, MRS Group, and his team have yet again developed the Narendra Bhawan property as a destination in itself. If there is a reason to visit Bikaner, this is it.
Contact: narendrabhawan.com
See also: suryagarh.com
Monday, June 4, 2018
Tuesday, May 1, 2018
Friday, April 6, 2018
Alfresco by the Food Truck
Food Truck at JW Marriott, Chandigarh |
Crumbed fried sole, french fries, beer cheese dip |
Executive chef Naveen Handa |
Tandoori soya chaap slider, French fries, house salad |
Anda, Boti-Keema-Kaleji, Aloo Kulcha, chitta makhan, tadka pyaz |
The fare is perfect for a pairing with mocktail, malt or microbrewery specials of your choice from The Lounge.
Rice cup spicy Thai corn salad |
The Food Truck ups its shutters at 3 pm and the last order can be placed till 11.30 pm.
Monday, March 5, 2018
Saturday, November 11, 2017
Sunday, August 20, 2017
Food, the traveller
At farmers' markets across India you would notice some vendors selling a variety of spinach, assorted beans, gourds, pumpkins and local produce like banana flower, drumsticks etc while there are others who keep coloured vegetables like bell peppers and carrots. The latter are often referred to as those who sell angrezi or shehri subzi... English or city vegetables. In a very straightforward way this unexceptional segregation of trade conveys the story of Indian cooking.
India has had a deep relationship with locally-grown provisions, forest produce, herbs and spices; a fact our remote villages and tribes still exhibit the best. Cooking was largely based on the ayurvedic system of eating which broadly speaking means having food according to season and body type with each meal presenting a combination of six flavours: sweet, salt, bitter, pungent, sour and astringent. Food was simple, balanced but nourishing.
As I dug deep to discover the history of food, it became evident that imports brought in plethora of choices and flavours and almost every popular dish in the country, has evolved over time to present itself in the form we know it today. Multiple invasions, royal patronage, colonial rule, asylum seekers and maritime traders who turned settlers have greatly influenced our food. The arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch, British, French, Mughals, Persians, Afghans, Parsis, Cantonese, Arabs, Jews Armenians and others saw their cooking traditions blending with local methods and ingredients to give India gastronomy immense depth and diversity.
European entree
Portuguese explorers lead by Vasco Da Gama were the first Europeans to discover the sea route to the subcontinent in 1498 AD. Their dropping anchor on Indian shores over the next few centuries brought in new greens and grains. The first seeds of the red long chilli pepper are also believed to have sailed the seas with them to forever alter the character of Indian cooking.
Apart from the potato, they disembarked with tomato, groundnuts, maize, papaya, pineapple, guava, custard-apple, a variety of beans and cashew to name a few. This fact can be fairly established by vernacular terms of some items. In Bengal, for example, the guava is called peyara; the Portuguese term for it is pera. Pineapple and cashew are known as ananas and caju, respectively, in both countries. Bread is called pao in Portugal; so no guesses required in tracing the history of your favourite breakfast essential.
The origin of paneer has for long been a subject of debate. But food historians as KT Achaya believe it were the Portuguese who introduced the technique of heating and deliberately splitting the milk using an acidic agent. Such cheese was first prepared in Bengal and came to be known as ponir and chhana. It was to become the basic ingredient of the immensely-loved rasogulla. On the west coast it's the Surti paneer, also known as topli nu panir among the Parsis, which has Portuguese origin.
They are also credited with having brought the art of making vinegar and initiating its extensive use in cooking. That's clearly exhibited in the cuisine of Goa, which was a Portuguese outpost till 1961, when the Instrument of Surrender was signed, closing the chapter of Portugal's rule in India which had lasted 464 long years. Popular Goan fare, a must-have on tourist lists, like chicken cafreal, pork vindaloo, prawn recheado, chicken chacuti or the sweet bebinca is the scrumptious result of that mingling.
Arabic, Jewish tweaks
Much before the Portuguese, in the 7th century Arab merchants had landed in southern India, in areas that belong to Kerala now. They settled in peacefully and married locally. That alliance led to an incredibly interesting spread of food in the region.
In the state's northern districts, the Moplah (or Mappilla), the Muslim community of Malabar, have a cooking style reflecting the Arab influence of yore. The fortuitous marriage of traditions can be seen in the aleesa, a wheat and meat porridge that's the Malabar cousin of the original Arabic harees. Browse through the menu at a Moplah restaurant and you can spot the parotta. It was a flatbread created with refined flour to please the palette of homesick Arabs who did not care for rice in all three meals and missed their khoubz and khamira. The Malabar biryani served with Ethapazham or dates pickle and coconut chutney is another example of India's remarkable composite culinary culture.
Later, when the Portuguese arrived, Malabar got its popular eshtews and egg-based desserts like muttamala, similar to the fios de ovos and the banana fritters.
The first Jews too came to the southern coast around the 8th century most possibly for trade in teak, ivory and spices. Over the centuries small batches kept arriving here with the later ones as Bene Israeli, Baghdadi Jews reaching India's shores to escape persecution. Apart from areas around Kochi, they moved to other parts of India and over time Kolkata, Pune, Mumbai and Goa became places of preference. Jewish culture thrived and Kochi's Jew Town and ornate synagogues in other cities stand witness to a glorious past. And so does typical Jewish fare like challah bread, aloo makalah, latkas, dolma matzo balls in soup etc that became familiar in Indian homes. Kosher bakeries like Nahoum and Sons in Kolkata grew famous for traditional items like baklava and the baked cheese sambusak, said to be the forerunner of the samosa. The Jews naturally influenced regional food too and a strong claim food historians make is of the appam being a Cochin Jews invention. Though the population has dwindled, Jewish food items continue to be savoured in areas where they had a strong presence and have become a happy part of the Indian food glossary.
Persian palate
In 1526 AD Babur set his foot in Hindustan. The Mughals not only changed the political history of the country but in a significant way transformed the course of our food history too. How we cook and eat today, especially in north India, has it beginnings centuries ago.
Babur had suffered a series of setbacks in Central Asia, and turned towards Hindustan to accomplish his ambitions of being a conqueror. He had heard the glories of the land but though he found wealth here he was largely disillusioned with the social fabric. In his biography, Tuzk-e Babri also known as Babaurnama, the cultured warlord has famously written, "Hindustan is a place of little charm. There is no beauty in its people, no graceful social intercourse, no poetic talent or understanding, no etiquette, nobility, or manliness. The arts and crafts have no harmony or symmetry. There are no good horses, meat, grapes, melons, or other fruit. There is no ice, cold water, good food or bread in the markets." Having come miles away from his land Samarkand, Babur it appears missed every aspect of home. Like his ancestors Timur and Genghis Khan, he was enamoured by Persian civilization. As he set up his empire in Hindustan, he began introducing Persian elements of art, architecture, landscaping and food. His son Humayun carried that legacy forward in a greater way.
Humayun had lost Mughal territories to Afghan noble Sher Shah Suri and had retreated to Persia. He returned 15 years later to recapture them; and this time accompanying him was a large contingent of Persian nobles, artists and writers and cooks. Humayun was victorious and hereafter Persian culture dominated Mughal courts.
In royal kitchen delectable Persian flavours bubbled. Their aromas also filled kingdoms such as Punjab and Kashmir (where Persian cooking and art can still be seen in its near-original form and almost borders on the sublime).
Culinary art was at its zenith in Persia and its cuisine was known for its sophistication and delicacy. Fragrances and flavours melded to present lavish results. At Mughal courts, royal chefs ran trials, fusing locally-available ingredients, spices and cooking styles with indigenous Persian techniques as dum pukht or slow cooking in a sealed vessel allowing the juices of the meats and vegetables to get absorbed well, using curd as a marinade for meat, combining vegetables and meat in a single dish, elaborate use of dry fruits and rosewater in dishes, grilling meat over charcoal in the tandoor or balancing the sweet and sour flavours in stews and soups. The result was a cuisine rich in taste and texture that overtime came to be known as Mughlai.
That is how the kebab, quorma, musallam, shorba, champ etc accompanied with an assortment of naan/ roti baked in the tandoor and on the griddle, as well as a range of pulao became part of royal spreads and sooner or later home kitchens were doing much the same in small ways. Presentation was fundamental to Persian cuisine and became central to Mughlai style too; an example of this was the practice of gilding a dish with gold or silver leaf (warq).
Royalty flourished and khansamas (chefs) received patronage to excel and outdo each other. Gradually, food preparation became creative and developed a sophistication that an evolved cuisine demands. Mughlai food later was tweaked at different imperial courts with Awadhi, Hyderbadi and the Rampuri (which has Afghan origins) styles emerging as offshoots. The biryani supposedly was created with the merger of cooking styles, but that remains a subject of debate.
Anglo-Indian melange
"Like the Mughals and the Portuguese before them, the British refashioned Indian food according to their tastes and created an independent branch of Indian cookery. This Anglo-Indian cuisine was the first truly pan-Indian cuisine, in that it absorbed techniques and ingredients from every Indian region and was eaten throughout the entire length and breadth of the subcontinent," says Lizzie Collingham in her definitive work Curry. This happened as the British hardly ever stayed at one spot in India, and as they moved to different cities they took along their retinue of cooks who prepared the same spread.
What the khansamas of The Raj served their sahibs and memsahibs was the outcome of all things Indian whipped up with all elements European. So menus got the mulligatawny soup, a Tamil stew converted to suit an English palate; country captain's curry or chicken stew with turmeric and a dash of chillies; the all-time favourite chicken cutlet; pish pash, a rice broth with chicken; and desserts like caramel custard and bread pudding. Now labelled Dak Bungalow cuisine, it still retains familiar flavours and that nostalgia can be savoured at British-era clubs and the gymkhanas. The colonial passage to India has also given the world cocktails like gin and tonic.
A host of other influences like the Cantonese arrival in Bengal making 'Calcutta Chinese' a genre in itself or the Tibetan fare found in the Himalayas are all part of the smorgasbord of flavours that define India's incredible food landscape. Today television cookery shows and recipe books do what colonisers and traders had once done: bring in miscellaneous flavours into our kitchens.
Food history is rampant with claims and counter-claims owing to the lack of data. But there is no denying how it has played a major role in human progression. Recipes have been adopted and restructured by different cultures, becoming testaments of history. Indian gastronomy stands witness to that.
Etymology
Diverse societies have strongly influenced each other and a great way to learn the voyage of food is by peeking into the etymology of a food term. Let's take the example of the kulcha. The term seems a derivative of kolache from the Old Slavonic kolo which stood for round or wheel. In Eastern Europe, kolach or kalac are buns packed with jam or walnut filling and prepared during Easter. Further on, koloocheh are Persian yeast cookies stuffed with walnuts, sugar and cinnamon specially baked during celebrations. The cookies are flaky, moist, mildly sweet and ideal with a cup of hot Irani chai. Moving East, kolcha becomes the generic term for sweet or savoury biscuits in Afghanistan while it means sweet flat buns in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Closer home is the Kashmiri kulchay, a yeast-leavened dry, crumbly biscuit-like snack dunked into tea. Moving to Punjab you get the hugely popular potato-stuffed Amritsari kulcha baked in the tandoor, while in most other parts of the country kulcha means the yeast leavened soft-textured bread in the shape of a flat bun.
Friday, August 11, 2017
JW Marriott, Chandigarh: On a culinary expedition
On the wheels: Road to London... A Gourmet Journey |
Dilpreet Bindra (left) and Naveen Handa |
“What an incredible journey this has been. We had planned meticulously for over six months and everything worked to precision. What made it remarkable was the cultural exchange, the thrill of traversing the Silk Route, the magnitude of nature, and the impeccable highways that made driving such a pleasure.”
After flag-off from Imphal and clearing the customs at Moreh, the Indian border outpost, the self-driven expedition made its way through Myanmar, Thailand, and the rain forests of Laos, before entering China and being dazzled by the state-of-the-art Dragon country. What welcomed them next was the vastness of land and warmth of locals as they drove through Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Further on Russia showed its gentle side while Latvia, Lithuania and Poland delighted them with East European generosity and courtesies. It was a breeze here on as the convoy manouvered through Czech Republic, Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, France to finally cross the English Channel and let out a hurrah in London.
Bindra wasn’t only at the wheel during the trip as the hotelier in him made sure he peeped into kitchens at restaurants and highway inns, cooked and ate (and even sang) with locals, gathered spices and collected an assortment of recipes. Once back to work in Chandigarh, cuisines were discussed with the F&B section at the hotel. Lead by executive chef Naveen Handa, the team worked for over a month to recreate what Bindra had tasted and the result is Road to London... A Gourmet Journey, a five-day food festival on the culinary trail of 18 countries, that commences today. At the preview on Thursday, I tasted a sample of what’s on offer and all I can say is the palette of flavours pleased the palate enormously.
Auksta zupa |
Yall dib |
Chengdu hotpot |
The desserts section is a medley of sweet temptations: cakes, tarts and flaky pastries. One that took me back to my trip to Poland was karpatka. Delicious! Matterntaart from Belgium, xianhua bing, a Yunnan rose-flower cake, marlenka from Czech Republic, baumkuchen from Germany and klingeris from Latvia were some others in the irresistible club.
That it was a huge learning experience for the chefs was visible in their enthusiasm to explain culinary nuances of what they had laid out. For it’s not every day that a hotel gets to prepare Latvian, Uzbek, Krygyz, Kazhak or Polish dishes. This fest is an absolute must-visit, especially if to you passion means food.
What: Road to London – a gourmet journey
Where: The Café@JW, JW Marriott,
Sector 35, Chandigarh
When: August 11 to 15, 2017
Brunch: 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm,
Rs 1,550 plus taxes
Dinner: 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm,
Rs 1,950 plus taxes