Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner: In a class by itself

Diwali Chowk

Watermelon sandwich

It's not often the word eclectic gets used for a hotel. Eclectic, though, is the word that often comes to mind at Narendra Bhawan. Tucked away in the quieter side of Bikaner, it's almost like a secret the town has been shy in sharing.

The mixed strains of jazz pleasantly surprise me as I arrive at Narendra Bhawan. This is invigorating piped music, layered with haunting Western and Indian rhythms, and sets the tone for the luxury boutique hotel that is local in essence but global in outlook, quite like the man it's named after and whose erstwhile residence it was, the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singh.                      

Republic Suite in tones of grey and blue

Republic Suite sitting room 

The hotel has a consciously-casual air and immediately draws me with its plush open foyer, the vermillion-toned informal reception and a melange of engrossing elements that make the eyes wander. A red piano in a corner, bookcases packed with dog-eared titles, Playboy editions playing peek-a-boo, arresting globular ceiling lamps, sepia toned family portraits, souvenirs and other vintage bric-a-brac reflect cosy opulence and convey a sense of timelessness. Jharaokhas and jaalis seamlessly blend in with Potuguese mosaic tiles and chevron pattern floors as Rajputana meets Bombay Art Deco style to spectacular effect throughout the property. 

However, this is definitely not just another royal haveli turned into a hotel. It feels like walking into a piece of art lovingly restored and passionately curated with a phenomenal eye for detail.

Wild mushroom tortellini

The five-level, 82-room hotel is a tribute to the charismatic lifestyle of its former owner and an effort has been made to incorporate his personality into the design.The rooms have been designed to mirror different phases of Narendra Singh's life. 

These are categorised as Prince, Residence and India rooms. At the top end is the Republic Suite, which is the one I've been hosted at. 

Gaushala, the lounge

Infinity pool with a view

Chevron floors, Art Deco and more

The hotel is fully occupied so I can't view the much-talked about vibrancy of the other rooms but the suite I'm staying at is very Modernist, all about clean lines, steely blue and concrete grey. It's a decor inspired by architects of independent India who created bold new spaces. I find the suite contemporary and chic. 

Eco-conscious

From the tones of black and pearl in the bath to the steel sailboat on the round dining table, the red mail box on the desk with the Narendra Bhawan crest to the brass box holding glass bottles filled with the local anardana churan goli and bhujia, every accent is well thought out. 

Spaces flow into each other and a terrific illustration is the original terrace being converted into Diwali Chowk, a leafy central courtyard, almost like a restorative oasis, and around it rising anew a three-storey structure comprising rooms, gymnasium as well as a rooftop sit-out and infinity pool offering a bird’s eye view of town.  

 If I have to pick a stand-out design element it will be the optimum utilisation of space. And the winner certainly will be the breezy al fresco lounge quirkily called Gaushala, as that’s what it initially was. It’s positioned right at the very entrance which sees a flow of guests the day through, yet it manages to be intimate and inviting.

Apricot brandy flourless chocolate cake

Narendra Bhawan has planned its menus as meticulously as its design. While the Mad Hatter Cafe serves a variety of confection and savouries, the very Victorian all-day dining, Pearls and Chiffon--the name drawn from the two sartorial favourites of the maharanis--rustles up appetizing fare across the cuisines and serves it in style. 

I get to taste some lesser known regional dishes as angoori sabzi and sautéed aloe vera.  And I must say I’ve not savoured better wild mushroom tortellini, butternut squash soup or watermelon sandwich. Delectable!

As with Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, Manvendra Singh Shekhawat, MD, MRS Group, and his team have yet again developed the Narendra Bhawan property as a destination in itself. If there is a reason to visit Bikaner, this is it.  


Contact: narendrabhawan.com

See also: suryagarh.com